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Thread: Bench grinder bearings
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10th January 2011, 10:58 PM #1Eschew obfuscation
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Bench grinder bearings
Not sure if this belongs here or in sharpening, but seems closer to this forum.
I have a cheapie 6" bench grinder that's ... well ... pretty knackered. It was making that nasty dry bearing shriek for a while, then I moved house and packed it away for a year or so, and now the shaft has stiffened up to the point where it's difficult to spin the wheels at all. Doesn't even look like spinning under its own power.
The thing is, it has a couple of AlOx white wheels on it, so it would be quite handy for sharpening work like drill bits, and I'd leave the 8" grey wheel grinder for more aggressive stuff.
The question (finally) is whether it's worth pulling apart and having a go at replacing bearings, or whether it's more likely a basket case. Anyone replaced bench grinder bearings? Do they tend to be standard sizes or peculiar ones that no sane bearing shop's ever seen? Are they just knocked into place on the shaft, or hydraulic pressed? If it's definitely a waste of time I'll give it a miss, otherwise I'll have a go. I'm a bit curious anyway.
Oh, and no - I don't remember the brand off the top of my head.
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10th January 2011, 11:35 PM #2
Well if it's almost siezed up anyway, what's the harm in pulling it apart? You might find they're common bearings like alternator bearings (6000 series, etc.).
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11th January 2011, 09:01 AM #3
Once you pull it apart have a look at the shaft where the bearing was located on also the end sheilds of the housing.
If there is wear on either of these parts it is not worth fixing.
As Yonnee said they should be standard bearings so a cheap fix if the rest is ok.Jim Carroll
One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
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11th January 2011, 06:24 PM #4
At one stage some of the cheapie 6in units ran on bronze bushes. Not enough use and regular strip to clean and oil, and the shafts get rusty and start to drag.
Possible to clean thm up and get them going but hardly worth it.
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12th January 2011, 09:39 PM #5Eschew obfuscation
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Worth pulling it apart to have a look anyway.
Thanks guys.
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15th January 2011, 08:15 PM #6
Hi, the grinder I use for sharpening tools is also a cheapie that I originally bought as my main grinder but I replaced when a mate gave me an old GMF grinder that is strong as a mule.
The bearings on the cheapie had also got very noisy and eventually siezed up. I pulled it apart and the bearings were standard sizes. I replaced them and all has been OK since.The first step towards knowledge is to know that we are ignorant.
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16th January 2011, 11:35 PM #7Eschew obfuscation
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Well, I pulled it apart. Seems to be quite well made actually, I was surprised.
Brand is a Peerless, using 6203Z bearings, so shouldn't be too difficult to track down a couple.
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17th January 2011, 07:14 PM #8
.
Brand is a Peerless, using 6203Z bearings, so shouldn't be too difficult to track down a coupleInspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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17th January 2011, 11:53 PM #9Eschew obfuscation
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Ah, thanks - I knew the Z code meant sealed on one side, but not what the code was for sealed both sides. 6203ZZ it is! I figure I can afford the extra dollar or so for it
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30th January 2011, 12:32 PM #10Eschew obfuscation
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Well, pulled it to bits, scared up some bearings (sealed both sides, but 2 for $22! ) and managed to install them. Good news and bad news of course. Good news is that it spins nicely now and is quieter than I remember it being. Bad news is that the end housings that have the through-bolt holes at unequal intervals around the circumference can in fact be installed 180 degrees out. This means it goes together and can be tested, but the wheel guards can't be fitted unless I want them upside down. Oh well, now I know for the next time I never pull the thing apart.
Anyhoo, now I get to pull it apart again and put it together properly. Once that's done though, I effectively have a new grinder for $22. Bargain! I'll be able to sharpen some sadly neglected drill bits now.
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