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19th July 2012, 08:36 PM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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- Sep 2006
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- Australind ,WA
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- 850
I think I would have gone the Oxy way if I had one. I'm more comfortable with that with this sort of job. More control.
I found some 2mm rods today so I bought some to try first.
They seemed to work ok and I didn't have any problems with blowing holes in the metal. Penetration seems fine as well.
I got the four sides tacked together and have started to do longer welds.
I *was* going to just weld 4 or 5 short strips along each edge (500 mm) , but I think it will look better with continuous welds.
2mm rods disappear pretty quick! I'm not used to that.....lol
The metal was a little bowed from the shears, so it made it a little difficult to line up the edges, but a clamp here and jack there it worked out ok.
Steve
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19th July 2012 08:36 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th July 2012, 08:10 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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- Sep 2010
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- Lebrina
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If your job has reasonable fit up then this should be a really simple task.
The use of 1.6 or 2mm rods is really making life difficult. I would use a 2.5 or 3.2mm rutile myself, 3mm is really very forgiving.
The larger electrodes are much easier to use and will produce far less distortion into the bargain. Gas would be my last choice.
About the only place I see 1.6 or 2mm sticks on sale are in the establishments catering primarily for the novice, no disrespect intended. From this we can reasonably assume that those who weld for living see little purpose for the mini electrodes. I have used 2mm sticks before but was welding 19x1.2 galv tube at the time.
Tack the job well and make sure that you work accurately, avoiding gaps. Keep your arc short and use sufficient amperage to get the electrode running well, then just go for it.
As always, clean your lenses so you can see and breathe while welding.
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24th July 2012, 08:55 PM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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- Sep 2006
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- Australind ,WA
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- 58
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- 850
Thanks Karl.
You have described exactly what I found. 2mm rods were to hard to get a good weld. I changed back to the 2.5mm's I was using ( generally ) and instantly got a much better result.
I think it was the poor metal of the box that I tried first that pointed me in the wrong direction as I was blowing holes in that easily. I shifted to 2mm rods on good metal and found that hard too ( changed 2 things at once and didn't pick the cause ) Tried 2.5 rods on good 3mm steel and found it easy.....( what everyone said....doh)
Just got to try and remember that when I do it again in 10 years time.....
Steve
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24th July 2012, 10:33 PM #19
Where are the photos????
The unwritten rule is:
If someone on the forum has helped you achieve what you set out to do,
you are obliged to show the results to the forum....
Joe
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24th July 2012, 10:36 PM #20SENIOR MEMBER
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- Sep 2006
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- Australind ,WA
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- 850
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28th July 2012, 08:36 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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- Sep 2006
- Location
- Australind ,WA
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- 58
- Posts
- 850
I took some pics of the stand today today. It came out pretty good, I think.
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30th July 2012, 09:57 PM #22
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30th July 2012, 11:20 PM #23Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2012
- Location
- Newcastle
- Posts
- 31
Hi Steve
I we would set the joint up with the corners slighitly over about 1mm (almost corner to corner) with enough tacks to ensure there is no gap(important). Raise the job so the corners form a natural v on top and slope the job down about 30 to 40deg, position is known as semi vertical down. Use 2.5 electrode say a 12 gp or ferocraft 21 these are cig rods and will run vertical down.Any other brand will do but they need to be rod sutible for vertical down welding. They will have written on the electrode E 6012 or E6021.Satincraft or weldcraft will have E6013 written on them and are not desigened to run vertical or semi vertical down, the slag will catch you and give slage holes. 3mm plate is quite weldable with stick and you should get a nise rounded weld profile, may be a touchup here and there with a sanding disc or a flapper disc and you will have a nice looking weld. Don't be frightened to keep the amps up.Practice on a piece of scrap.
Good luck
Kev
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31st July 2012, 01:42 PM #24
Yeah it came up good
Its a bit late now but I would have ran some angle inside the corners where they couldnt be seen on the finished product. My arc welding isnt the best consistancy wise, so I would have used mig. Thats easy to say of course when I have 2 of em.www.lockwoodcanvas.com.au
I will never be the person who has everything, not when someone keeps inventing so much cool new stuff to buy.
From an early age my father taught me to wear welding gloves . "Its not to protect your hands son, its to put out the fire when u set yourself alight".
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31st July 2012, 06:57 PM #25
Sterob,
You done a pretty good job there.
Its lightweight, but strong while at the same time unaffected by distortion.
Distortion is the major defect encountered by new operators.
Top stuff
Grahame
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