Thread: BOC Electrodes

Haven't had any experience with BOB rods, but I know there are quite a few people who hate Satincraft 13. I can do vertical up with my Kobe RB26, but with the Satincraft rods it was impossible for me, either wouldn't weld through the flux or if I had the amps up higher it just blasted the metal away. Both are 6013 rods.

Keith.

G'Day Pete

Satincraft electrodes have been my hobbyhorse for years as most on the forum may tell you.

They are an electrode that do not tolerate too long of an arc length. The other thing they don't like is running over their own slag.

as this will beget more slag.

So the rues for Satincraft are :

Keepeth thy arc short

and

Chippeth and wire brush thou bead.

As beefy said , RB 26 electrodes are the go - definitely better but use up your expensive Satincraft first

on short arc and chipped slag.


Grahame the Archangel

Thanks Graham, I believe arc length is my problem as I'm having trouble maintaining a consistent arc length. It gets too long and I push the rod closer and sometimes accidentally touch the weld puddle which results in more rotten slag holes.

Other electrodes seem more tolerant of arc length variances.
Also the satincraft have an extremely runny slag which is difficult to control frequently runs ahead of the weld puddle even with a steep drag angle and short arc.

The funny thing is though when I started welding satincraft was about the only rod I could weld with. Now I'm having trouble welding with them and would prefer to weld with other rods.

Grahame,

good info on the arc length, never new that. I'll treat them like a low hydrogen from now (is that an insult to LH rods ?).

I like the Satincraft as far as appearence goes. They have nice edge tie-in and fine shiny ripples, almost like chrome is mixed with them. Only use them on flat work though.

Keith.

Hi again
If they stumble a bit on the short arc length punch a few more amps ( 5 -10 amps ) into them.
They are OK for what they do but over priced against over electrodes of the same class which will tolerate a longer arc length.

A lot of folk buy them specifically to get the finish but are blissfully unaware of the short arc requirement to achieve that finish and often are disappointed.

Grahame

Thanks Graham, for the info. What I like about satincraft is they strike reasonably easy and generally run nice and smooth without sticking.

When I started stick welding I had heaps of trouble with rods sticking and satincraft stuck the least often of the rods I tried.

It's really amazing where you find information like this. You'd think Cigweld would have this information shouting at you on the packet, especially as it's a relatively expensive rod. If they "helped" people to use it they'd make more sales.

Well, armed with this new knowledge, I might attempt to drive myself crazy again trying some vertical up with these rods. If that works I might even try overhead, after all they are supposed to be all position (I'll take that back if I'm successful).

Don't know if it was Welding Tips & Tricks, but the guy there recommended a very tight arc and more amps to do overhead welding. This is opposite to a lot of other advice that recommeded lower amps. I wonder if his technique would work with Satincraft.

Thanks for that Grahame,

Keith.

,Hi guys,

Just some thoughts on 6013 electrodes and satincraft in general. The key is in the constituents of the electrode flux. Hey! Nobody has said that that all 6013 electrodes must have the exactly same make up.

Note that the AS code 1553- have an olde one 1983, says that 13 are a high titania fluid slag as opposed to a 6012’s which have a high titania viscous slag.

It specifies AC or DC positive and negative current and that both will run in the
Flat,hv,vertical and overhead positions.

For those who have experienced iron powder electrodes they will recognize some characteristics shared between some iron powder electrodes and Satincraft.

For those that have not ,iron powder are electrodes that have an iron oxide in some percentage added to the flux mixture coating.
It deposits itself into the bead volume, ie, filler & some iron oxide to give a deposit volume more than the original core wire volume.

I believe there is a certain amount of iron oxide used in the satin craft electrode, enough to create the problem with slag holes.

Electrodes are like any other consumable or tool. Each is made for a specific application. Nobody has one screw driver or one spanner in the tool box, so its the same with electrodes.

Problems don’t stem from the electrode but from the inaccurate operating parameters applied to them.

What are these parameters are:

Travel speed, angle of incline to the work, arc length, and amperage setting. Voltage , to a degree will alter due to arc length. With a tight arc length there is a lower voltage and better penetration due to higher amps. The opposite is true with higher voltage applied to the weld pool and less penetration.

Parameters work as a whole,so work at perfecting each one of them.


Try different electrodes and in change parameters. Practice and learning by observation and remember or record your observations and this will improve welding to a huge degree.

Enjoy your Australia day

Grahame