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16th March 2022, 02:57 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Mathieson and son 7/8 rebate plane
Hello knowledge bank.
Just rescued this wooden plane.
Stamped with makers name and size.
I hadn't seen one like this before, it has two blades (one a cutter and the other a knicker).
Blades appear original as you can see some remnants of the name.
Looks in really great condition with barely any hammer adjustment marks.
The depth adjuster works really well. Brass thumbscrew and steel depth stop.
I've cleaned it with 0000 steel wool and metho. Then a couple of good soaking coats of 50/50 turps and boiled linseed oil.
Hopefully I've not destroyed too much patina. There are some slight cracks, but nothing drastic, mainly cosmetic.
My questions:
How to sharpen the blades, especially the knicker.
How to use it.
How to date it, I've found an old catalogue but it doesn't have this one.
As always, any help or info appreciated.
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16th March 2022 02:57 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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16th March 2022, 05:14 PM #2
That's a double knicker blade so its for cutting a dado or trench.
I freehand sharpen on an oilstone as a skewed blade cant be done in the usual hone guide. With the knicker a slip stone or diamond paddle. Do not touch the outside but sharpen towards the points and try to keep both points the same height.
A nice plane and Mathieson was a very good tool maker.
Regards
John
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16th March 2022, 05:22 PM #3
As John has said - an excellent plane.
Be careful sharpening the cutter to keep the bevel precise. If it starts to lose its original skew angle, you won't be able to make full shavings.
Also, you can remove the nickers to use it as a regular shallow rebate plane if you want.
Tom.... some old things are lovely
Warm still with the life of forgotten men who made them ........................D.H. Lawrence
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16th March 2022, 09:28 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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Thank you for the replies.
Much appreciated.
Lyle
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17th March 2022, 10:51 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Lyle. Apologies if you already worked it out but it is for cutting across the grain (as John alluded too with his reference to a dado). The knicker blade scores ahead of the full blade (and that's why John told you to only sharpen the inside).
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17th March 2022, 09:41 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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OK, I have sharpened the blade and nickers. But unfortunately I can't get the blade to sit correctly to get a shaving. To me it looks like the skew angle is wrong. I've tapped the blade around trying to get it to sit square with the base, but the point of the skew always sticks out.
Any help/hints/tips or videos to help me out.
Note that I might be too stupid to own one of these new fangled (to me) wooden planes.
Yours in frustration
LyleLast edited by Lyle; 17th March 2022 at 09:42 PM. Reason: Spelling
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17th March 2022, 11:29 PM #7
As Tom said in post #3 you need to ensure the skew angle is correct; it requires a compound grind where as well as the primary bevel you need to factor in the skew angle. An expensive way to do this is using a Multi Jig on a Tormek wetstone; but as this is a $1400 outlay a considerably cheaper method would be using a grinder fitted with a proprietary tool rest like THIS ONE from Carbatec.
You could try to hand grind this but it really depends on how confident you are at using a grinder freehand.Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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17th March 2022, 11:56 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Lyle. The blade should be slightly wider than the plane body and the same dimension across the skew as the knicker (I would measure with verniers when the blade is in the plane). To check the skew angle, colour in the back of the blade with a texta, put the blade back in the plane and scribe a line across the back (parallel to the body) and sharpen to this line. Actually before all this check that the base is square to the sides, adjust accordingly and then go through the before mentioned procedure. May as well check base is flat too
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18th March 2022, 04:59 PM #9
I've had to re-grind some skews on some planes like this one - for the simple reason that repeated sharpenings have altered the skew angle and it will not take a full width shaving.
I have worked out a technique that works for me, and I'll try to describe it.
1. Insert the blade as you normally would with the tang centred in the blade hole.
2. Turn the plane upside down and push the blade through the mouth until the lowest side is level with the base - the other side will project too far.
3. Fix the blade in position with the wedge.
4. Place a steel rule flat on the sole and push it flush up to the back of the blade.
5. Use a permanent market to draw a line across the back of the blade.
6. Remove the blade.
7. Re-grind the skew to this line, re-grind the bevel and re- sharpen - be careful to never go beyond your line or you will be back where you started.
Note: You will probably muck it up the first time, but with care you can get it right.
Tom
I have just noticed that my method is a long winded way of doing the same thing as Julian.... some old things are lovely
Warm still with the life of forgotten men who made them ........................D.H. Lawrence
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23rd March 2022, 08:01 PM #10
Nice plane…yours is a RH version…they came in both RH and LH in sizes from 1/4 to 1” although I have never seen a 1” version of either… I have been fortunate in being able to add most RH versions to my stash and a few of the LH… 1/2” versions seem to be more common than the other sizes…I picked up 3/8” LH plane just yesterday. I’m yet to put any of to work so I’ll be interested to see how you go at sharpen the blade. By the way the wedge on your nicker blade isn’t correct..it should just have a small roll that faces the side of the plane. I will take a photo tomorrow for you. They aren’t that hard to remanufacture if you have a bit of beech lying around,
Gaza
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23rd March 2022, 09:09 PM #11
MA, this is what one does with a shoulder plane, but not with a dado plane. The body is not as important as the blade and nicker relationship. The nickers need to be a smidgeon wider than the blade, and set up that way.
Lyle, check that the body is straight and square. It is quite common for these plane bodies to warp a little. The side with a hump in the centre will need to be flattened, otherwise the plane will not navigate the dado it is cutting.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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23rd March 2022, 09:58 PM #12GOLD MEMBER
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OK.
Thanks all. Seems like I have some work to do yet.
I'll recheck the flatness and squareness. But I'm pretty sure just getting the blade right will be the thing.
The nicker blade wedge I thought was original. Be nice to see what it is supposed to look like. I do have some nice beech, so looking forward to trying to make the wedge.
Thanks again for the excellent advice.
LyleLast edited by Lyle; 23rd March 2022 at 10:01 PM. Reason: Add text
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24th March 2022, 10:42 AM #13
Mathieson Dado Plane 3-4 RH 001.jpgMathieson Dado Plane 1-2 RH-LH 001.jpgMathieson Dado Plane 1-2 RH-LH 002.jpg
Here are some images that show the Correct wedge for the nicker and also the Left and right versions of the Dado planes. These were also called a flooring Raglet or trenching plane. Originally used to cut a groove in floor boards to take the tongue of Dado Panels. I haven't got around to getting these tuned to use them. My 7/8" is a left hand version and is missing the Nicker and wedge and will require a bit of work to get back to a full working plane.
Gaza
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24th March 2022, 01:10 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks for the replies.
I've checked for square, all good.
Yet to attack the blade but have confidence to go out and do it now.
Gaza, can I ask for close up photos of the nicker wedge for the RH and.
Lyle
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28th March 2022, 12:12 PM #15
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