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Thread: Woodfast 14" Bandsaw Restoration
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29th November 2016, 03:00 PM #1
Woodfast 14" Bandsaw Restoration
I am about to start the restoration of a 1960's Woodfast 14" Bandsaw. I scored the machine from a school and while it is operational it needed new guides, new paint, new bearings & to have dust extraction retrofitted to it, so I might as well restore the whole thing at once.
At this stage I plan to undertake the following:
- Completely disassemble
- Get the glue residue remove from the wheels
- Get the ball bearings pushed out
- Get all parts sand blasted to remove paint and rust
- Get a 100mm sheet metal dust port attached to the sheet metal door
- Have it Auto Body Painted - I am thinking graphite at the moment
- Install new ball bearings
- Install a Carter Band Saw Guide Upgrade Kit
- Install Carter ULTRA BLUE™ Urethane Tires
- Have the cast iron table hand scraped "French Chip" from memory
- Outfit the machine with a Lenox 1/2" Carbide Tip Bandsaw Blade
I have for the most part disassembled the bulk of the the machine, which is relatively simple however I have become stuck on how to remove the mechanisms that tilts the table -5º to 45º.
There are no bolts, nuts, screws or cir clips to remove. The nut head that is visible in photo 3 is imbedded & flush with its surroundings and there is no way that I can see that one could get at it. In the bottom of the cam lever photo 4 there is a set screw but there is no way of getting an allen key in were my finger is pointing.
IMG_5136.jpg IMG_5135.jpg IMG_5138.jpg IMG_5140.jpg IMG_5137.jpg
Has anyone got any suggestions on how to remove this thing?
The second issue is the ball bearings when I restored my Waldown the ball bearings came out with light pressure the Woodfast seems to be much more secure.
Will I need a press to remove the ball bearings?
IMG_5142.jpg
Here are the rest of the parts disabled.
IMG_5143.jpg IMG_5146.jpg IMG_5145.jpg IMG_5147.jpg
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29th November 2016, 03:27 PM #2
My time to shine! I've restored the 10" version of this which is mostly identical. To remove that table adjustment assembly you need to remove the rod for the handle and then put a screwdriver in the hole and do quarter turns until its loose enough to unscrew by hand.
I'll get the link for the thread with all the details and you can see what I did to restore.
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29th November 2016, 03:29 PM #3
Woodfast Junior Restoration - Advice needed
Hope to restore a larger Woodfast bandsaw in coming years, bit short on the ground here in Perth though.
Oh and regarding the wheel bearings, you might very well need a press. I actually had two machines that I disassembled to finish my 10" and I was only able to get the bearings out of one of them with a hammer, the other was much too tight.
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29th November 2016, 03:58 PM #4
Oh and another thing, if you're making up a dust extraction port for it then make it a 6".
If your extraction setup is 4" you can always put a step down adaptor on it and you'll be prepared for future extractor upgrades.
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29th November 2016, 04:05 PM #5
bueller thanks for the link it has answered a few questions.
you need to remove the rod for the handle and then put a screwdriver in the hole and do quarter turns until its loose enough to unscrew by hand.
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29th November 2016, 05:41 PM #6
Okay - it took a little bit of fiddling to get at the set screw to easy off just enough so that I could remove the handle - then as bueller said it took a few quarter turns to get the table adjustment assembly to come apart.
The next thing that I need to do is get the set screw that is holding on to the pulley. I need to buy an allen key that will give the leverage I need as well as the access.
IMG_5142.jpg
I had a look at the ball bearings in the wheel it looks / feels like I will need a puller to get it out. I can feel that there is a shoulder / ridge in-between the ball bearings.
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29th November 2016, 05:49 PM #7
Yeah if it's like mine there will be an internal circlip in behind each bearing.
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29th November 2016, 06:26 PM #8
The old rubber tyres were FUBAR so I pulled them off, however the tires were glued on and now I am stuck with a glue residue that I need to remove - what should I use to clean the old glue off.
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29th November 2016, 06:36 PM #9
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29th November 2016, 07:02 PM #10
Thanks - I will give the acetone a try.
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23rd April 2017, 10:11 PM #11
Ok ,Im going to resurrect this thread, because I become the proud owner of said bandsaw on Thursday night.
Thanks Thumbsucker for all the information so far.
My plans at this stage are ,to get it up and running for now (sorry cutting wood).
Will see what happens after that, tho as I would love to give it a proper restoration ,but time is my bitter enemy of late.
First question, is this how the motor plate should look installed Helmut , and myself ,are not 100 percent on this one.?
Is the motor mount with motor attached just meant to hang there, under its own wait with just the belt holding it up.?
To me ,that seems a bit off or is something missing or is that it??
Next question ,if the wheels are just over 14 inch or 358 mm with out tires.
I've found 14 urethane tires will theses fit ok ?
Will they be tight enough from the little google searching I've done they seem to be the ones to go for.
I think that will get me going for now .
I do intend to look at the saw guides as well.
Once I have the saw running ,i can make more informed decisions about what to do ,ie wheel bearings extra.
But for now ,I would just like to get it going .
Cheers Matt
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24th April 2017, 11:23 AM #12
The motor hanging on the belts like that keep tension on the belts and is a common thing.
…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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24th April 2017, 12:23 PM #13
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24th April 2017, 12:52 PM #14.
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I prefer a tensioning bolt, that way you know its at the correct tension.
One issue I have seen with the motor weight alone providing the tension is if an older cast iron or steel motor is replaced with a light weight Al motor then it may not have enough tension especially if they get a vibration running and start to bounce.
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24th April 2017, 01:22 PM #15
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