Thread: Building a OzRacerRV and has a lot of Qs

Looks like a neat job!

Rick Landreville who built the prototype suggested fitting the saddles to the bulkhead and doing the back like the OzRacer. They are kind of long but if you can adjust the length at the back like the OzRacer .. I think you will find a tension that works.

MIK

Originally Posted by Pharmer

I am wondering about where to attach toestraps. In oz racer, you can use a leeboard case frame. But with RV, there is no frame. Possible location is bulkhead but it lack frame (bottom) and may not be strong enough to hold straps. Any suggestions? Should I add a frame to bulkhead? I would have to modify the mast step if I do that. By the way, building a mast step has been a pain in #%!?@.

I just hook my toes under the gunnel for the side airtank, but you could install a couple of padeyes on the bottom framing for the transom and on the bottom of the cockpit bulkhead with a piece of timber for a backer then tie on the toe straps leaving them a little loose so they lay down on the cockpit floor when not in use. (they are a nuisance if they are pulled tight, always tripping over the ones in my MKII)
Rick Landreville
Rosedale, B.C. Canada.

Thank you both for some great suggestions. I already got some extra hooks so I will try to place them to the air tanks or bulk head.
Thanks again.

I think the bulkhead is the easier choice and is much stronger and puts less load on the hull. Also it is accessible at any time.

Rick's idea is much better. it is possible that for racing (if you ever do it) that you might need some light shockcord/bungee to hold the straps off the floor.

But that can be done any time you need it.

Michael

I think having just one toestrap running from the bulkhead to the transom on centerline would be best.

It would fit in the RV-approach of uncluttering the OzRacer.

Any objections?

Bert

Will depend on how long the sailor's legs are. Basically you should be able to establish a comfortable position with your buttocks out past the gunwale.

Some might be able to use just one leaning strap. Others might need two and depending on the legs use either the windward one or leeward one. The length ... which can be adjusted at the back end because of the lashing also can compensate partially for the different leg lengths whether a single strap or double.

MIK

Ah yes, you are right, of course.
I forgot about people with shorter legs than mine (I'm 1.90 meter tall (6.24 foot))

In the past I fanatically raced in the Laser class, where everyone has to do with the one toestrap. That's perhaps why I find one hiking strap 'normal'.

Thanks for explaining,
Bert

I am getting closer. Almost everything is glued on and just started painting on Sunday. Unfortunately, it didn't go well. Rush job with novice mistakes. I will sand it down and repaint this weekend. I'll get a better roller and take my time. Yard and boom came out well. Just need some varnishing. Once I finish making a sail, I'm pretty much done. Hope to finish this in 2 weeks or so before my trip to Mexico.

Questions on coaming
Should I add coamings? RV plan doesn't have any comings on side decks. It mentions about a cockpit comaing but missing a photo. Also what should I do about mast holes? Do I create frames around or coming for mast holes to keep waters from coming in?

Originally Posted by Pharmer

Nice workshop. Plenty of ventilation! The views promote the appropriate attitude toward PDR building: it's all about having a good time.

Howdy Pharmer ... your silence gave the feeling that something was wrong ...

... but you have just been busy!

The boat looks FANTASTIC.

You can do side coamings if you like ... No harm ... I was just trying to keep the timber list and hull weight down.

I would love a hull weight measure if you have some bathroom scales (don't use the cool glass topped ones though!)

You don't need to worry about water getting in the foredeck. The mast on the Mk2 actually goes inside a buoyancy tank. But we have never had more than a cup full of water even when there is rain.

The Mk3 only has side tanks ... so it is not a problem in the slightest.

REally looks nice!!!

MIK

MIK
Thanks for answering my questions. I will add coamings. I think it gives a nice finished look.

Weight
Boat -painted and varnished but without any hardware and coamings (used 6mm plywoods and WRC): 96 LB
Mast: 9 LB
Yard & boom: 7 LB
Rudder box & tiller extension: 2.4 LB
Foils: 10.6 LB

That's quite good.

I think my guess based on 6mm bottom and the rest in 4mm was for the hull to be about 80lbs.

96lbs is very nice for a singlehanded boat.

MIK

Boat is not ready, yet. Still working on sail and boom/yard need glassing but I had to try it. As soon as coaming glue dried, we put the boat in water. My kids and I had a blast just rowing it around lake.

Wow!

Really great boat. Looks like there's about to be some fun happening there.
Can you roof rack an Oz Racer.

No, I'm not going to build one.
Repeat
I'm not going to build one.

They look like fun though.

Cheers, Kev.