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24th December 2009, 10:11 AM #106
If the Inner diameter is about 12mm (half inch) and the bolts are 3/16" (5mm) then it will be strong enough.
MIK
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24th December 2009 10:11 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th December 2009, 12:45 PM #107
DuckWorks has these Sea Dog fittings.
Duckworks Boatbuilders Supply
Maybe someone closer to you carries these, too.Building Gardens of Fenwick, a Welsford Parthfinder
Gardens of Fenwick
Karen Ann, a Storer GIS
Goat Island Skiff - Sacramento
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26th December 2009, 12:29 AM #108Senior Member
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- Oct 2007
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- Brisbane
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Hi Bruce,
I've just spent some time reading your blog - I like the way your foils came up - good colour
Duncan
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26th December 2009, 12:03 PM #109SENIOR MEMBER
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- May 2008
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- Portland, ME USA
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- 837
Bingo!!! Yes, order from Duckworks. My recent order from them came in less than two days standard shipping. They are amazing.
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30th December 2009, 08:58 AM #110
New yard
It became apparent that the original Yard I made was far too flexible, and I've posted some photos below to prove it! As mentioned in my post on 27 December 2009, I wanted to make a new one and I had found some quite nice 42x42mm Radiata Pine at Bunnings which was quite cheap too.
This afternoon's therapy was turn this Radiata into a new Yard, and I must say I'm pretty chuffed with how it's turned out. At Bunnings I had picked through all the staves and found the most dense and heaviest ones as being most suitable. This proved the way to go, as the resulting Yard has turned out pretty well. I even made it to the original specs in the plans and this one has a round section. (The previously made Yard was left square with just the edges rounded off). I haven't encountered Radiata quite as hard as this before. This stuff was quite hard to plane with my #6 Bailey that had been freshly sharpened to a very keen edge.
After making the tapers and turning it into 8 sides, then 16, and finally rounding it with a #40 grit sander belt, I decided to test its flexibility. To round the Yard I wrapped the belt around the yard twice and set to with the task using a sawing motion. Pretty stupidly I did not wear gloves and consequently now have sore finger tips from the 40 grit
Here is the almost completed yard. The taper is is not very evident from the shot, but it is tapered both ends! Just a final sand and varnishing to go. In this pic I am measuring the flex in the Yard for the sailmaker. This Yard weighs 2.2kg compared to the previous Hoop version which was 2.0kg, so even though the timber is quite dense and hard for Radiata, it's still turned out quite light. Better still, it is twice as stiff for only a 200g weight increase.
To measure the degree of deflection for the sailmaker, on his advice I suspended the Yard by it's ends and suspended a 10kg weight from its centre. The easiest way to do this is to fill a bucket with 10 litres of water. I have a digital fishing scale, so used this to check that the final weight was 10kg.
Attachment 125301
47mm deflection. I'm very happy with that!
Attachment 125302
By direct comparison, this is the flex measurement for the original Yard, 97mm. Twice the deflection!
Attachment 125303
After sanding the spar round with the cut 40grit sanding belt (Quite a work-out!), I made 3 finishing sanders from used paint rollers. These were split and 3 different grades of paper bonded to the insides with PVA glue. They were a little small for the larger sections, but this was easily fixed by heating the tube with a heat gun and spreading the tube wider, like this
Attachment 125304
Nice comfy sanders they make too! Given the somewhat worn state of my fingertips from the sanding belt, this was a relief
Attachment 125305
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31st December 2009, 02:36 AM #111
Well ... does the 10kg seem like a convenient measure ... we could use it as standard ... or could choose something lighter to make it easy? A weight that is less than a bucket full of water would probably be a good choice.
Easy to replicate around the world.
MIK
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31st December 2009, 05:55 PM #112Senior Member
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- Jul 2009
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- Netherlands
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Really well done "scientific" work !
I think that 10kg central weight is pretty perfect as a standard, at least you see any differences quite well. I have played with a "standard" 5cm deflection and measuring the weight with a digital scale. ( the other way round )........but that's not very practical.
I am surpized that there is so much difference in flex and so little in weight ? Must be related to the basic structure of this wood ? ( we do not have both species in Europe )
It really fits with my experience that you need to see and feel the pieces to pick something right, and that there are huge differences even within one species of wood.
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31st December 2009, 07:24 PM #113
We might be able to set up a standard for the square piece before it is cut if we measure that as well.
In theory it should be able to be calculated, but with the taper it makes it quite complicated.
MIK
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12th January 2010, 02:46 PM #114
Still waiting for my ply to arrive so the frustration is driving me to drink (both figuratively and literally).
I was given some money for Christmas so decided to upgrade my 30y/o jigsaw as the blade-holding capability of it had gone kaput. The Tritons are being run-out so I got one for 1/3 of the old RRP. It has all the nice features that jig-saws come with these days, including a laser guide. It’s a monster of a thing with a supposed capability to cut 85mm timber. Pretty impressive, but it has a dark side…..
The first job I gave it on the w/e was cutting the transom top from 19mm Hoop Pine and it turned into a minor disaster. Thankfully it is fixable, so no Hoop will be wasted.
Even though the foot of the saw was level and tight, somehow the blade has pulled to one side so that the cut was not vertical and the cut drifted inside the line on one face of the Hoop. No problem, I just drew another line 5mm below the original line and will adjust it with a block plane.
Then, when I was using it to cut the straight bottom edge, I thought this should be no problem, I’ll just use the straight edge guide that came with the tool. Same problem again…the blade goes skew and even thought the guide kept the saw straight and level, the blade skewed from the vertical and I’ve got a dogs breakfast for a transom. Aaaarrrgghh!
I’ll have to fix it by laminating a piece of Hoop (from the off-cut actually) onto the bottom edge after I’ve straightened it with a hand plane. So my foray into a decent quality jigsaw has unsettled me and until I work out what’s happening with it, or what I’m doing wrong, I’m going back to hand tools! I don’t think it’s the blade. They are high quality Swiss made ones that came with the saw.
Here’s a pic of the stupid saw.
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13th January 2010, 10:21 AM #115
Does it have guides that can be adjusted at the table level?
Might be the blade ... change it over.
If it continues take a sample in and get your money back. It is only thin stock you are doing.
MIK
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13th January 2010, 11:56 AM #116
Ha, turns out that it's an operator error!
I got onto another forum and was reassured that there's nothing wrong with my Triton jigsaw and this problem is identified with all types with a pendulum feature. For thicker timbers and accurate work it's preferable to turn off the pendulum function and not force the pace at all.
There is a brief mention on these forums as well here
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13th January 2010, 01:16 PM #117
I like your use of the word "chuffed" on Dec. 29th.
Does this mean you're feeling pretty good about yourself? Can North-Americans co-opt your slang?
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13th January 2010, 02:35 PM #118Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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14th January 2010, 09:07 PM #119
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15th January 2010, 10:53 AM #120
There is also the more archaic spelling of Choughed!
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