Thread: Correction to MSD Rowboat stem

Having discovered this problem first, I would add that not over tightening the screws into the stem will help not to pinch in the side panels. As you tighten the screws if the panels "sucks into"the stem bevel, let the screw out a bit and fill the gap with glue. The dim's look about like what we did on the second stem we made. This is good to have.

Clint

Exactly Clint,

I would not have been looking for that problem if you hadn't pointed it out to me.

All the bevels on my boats are averages and I rely on the epoxy to fill the gap. So if the screws are tightened until the epoxy squirts out a bit then it is not overtightened.

If a hollow appears adjacent to a fastening then it is easy enough just to back off a half turn or so until the hollow disappears. And the dreaded 'pox will fill the gap between the cleating and the ply panel nicely.

MIK

Exactly Clint,

I would not have been looking for that problem if you hadn't pointed it out to me.

All the bevels on my boats are averages and I rely on the epoxy to fill the gap. So if the screws are tightened until the epoxy squirts out a bit then it is not overtightened.

If a hollow appears adjacent to a fastening then it is easy enough just to back off a half turn or so until the hollow disappears. And the dreaded 'pox will fill the gap between the cleating and the ply panel nicely.

MIK

Hi MIK
Thanks for keeping us up to speed on this. I appreciate the fact that you sent PM as well as a general forum message since you knew I had made a start.
My boat is still pieces of cut plywood, my thinking is a little ahead and my dreams are miles away.
When Clint and his group had problems with the bow of their boat, and put up photos on their thread (MSD compass project?) I had thought to avoid this by stitch and glueing the bow after glueing the bulkheads and transom and later making a stempiece to fit. I think that way I can make it correct shape and still strong. The stitches to go in as the bulkheads are glued obviously. My thinking is that this initial part of glueing (transom. bulkheads and stem) when building without frames is critical to getting a straight boat. Epoxy is strong, as we all know.
For the sheerline, I have already left a bit of playwithwood after reading earlier posts, so I think it will all fit.
Now I should stop talking about it and just get on with it, shouldnt I?
Bye for now,
Tom

Howdy Tom,

Just getting on with it is the secret of course. I would be just as happy with a fillet up the front rather than a bit of wood, but the wood does look nice.

I think that is the only place a fillet is really relevant. The bulkheads all work well enough and the epoxy is accommodating when the timber doesn't quite match the right angle. My boats are really set up to take advantage of that fact. The minimum number of bulkheads really just makes sure that small errors will not result in any unfairness.

If the boat has a lot of bulkheads a little error in one will result in lots of hollows or a bulge or some other sign.

Best wishes
Michael

Originally Posted by Boatmik

Clamp the gunwale in position according to the plans. Clamp the back 1500mm firmly as this section looks fine. For the gunwale measurements at the middle seat area move the gunwale down an extra 6mm ie Bhds #2 and #3. At Bhd #1 move it up 2mm and at the stem about 4mm.

Hmm, my sides were cut to the original plans, so I'm guessing I'm stuffed (because I can't go up at Bh 1 and the stem). However, it's still possible to factor in that dip in the middle anyway but is probably something best done when the boat's in one piece.

Richard

Howdy Richard. The movement is the gunwale relative to the sides of the boat. The sides dont change much though there may be a little bit taken off the top edge of the side panel in the middle of the boat to make it all look fair.

The the raising is only the gunwales - I haven't changed the sides of the boat at all. With the little changes the Duckflat one has a nice crisp line up to the bow.

I attach the replacement drawing for the register marks marked on the side panels for the underside of the gunwale.

MIK