Thread: GIS Yawl

I was wondering why you didn't round up and go into the dock after passing it. But the camera boom explains everything!!!

Nicely done.

With the slapping of the bow going upwind, the way I would normally get rid off it is by moving forward - not aft. Only move aft going upwind when the bow is going so deep into the waves you are getting water aboard or the bow is going so deep that you lose speed.

But main thing ... try different things!

Best wishes
Michael

Originally Posted by Boatmik

But main thing ... try different things!

Best wishes
Michael

...and I'd add to that..."always make new mistakes".

Looks like not a major difference. I would normally sail a yawl on a reach with the mizzen running much freer, but I think JG was experimenting with over sheeting it.

Also, one trick I have done, albeit with some work still to do on nailing down this skill, is to round up in front of a dock, using the mizzen to stay head to wind, douse the main and either row in or (this is the tricky one) use the mizzen to back up into the dock area. I've done this on heavier boats...may not work on GIS. But just to point out some cool merits of yawls.

Hey, great videos. You guys were so synched when the boat rolled in the following sea and then you leaned out.

I think the best test of yawl with main in standard step, is smooth water and 15kts going on a beat. Then the weather help would really be a factor. On a reach, I think the mizzen wouldn't add much to helm if it is running free.

What do I know, I may be the third to sail my own GIS yawl at the rate I am going.

looking fwd to feedback

So painting around the structure of open gunwales is always a mind bender. My plan is to have an inside color, gunwale color, and an exterior color. The question is how to handle the gunwale paint lines.


Gunwale Structure by Clint Chase Boatbuilder, on Flickr

As you can see, my rails are rabbeted over the sheer, so there is no natural glue line on the top to use as a color break. The easiest seems to be to put the interior/gunwale color break on the inside just under the inwales/spacers. In other words, put a tape line along the bottom side of the spacers. The space inside the gunwales, the inwale and the rails would all get the gunwale color (whatever I choose). I'd paint the interior color first, the exterior, then put the tape on and do the gunwales.

I wonder how this would look. My eye wants to have the interior color come up inbetween the spacers and meet the gunwale color just under the inside edge of sheer. But this is a hard one to make crisp.

Another thought was to carry the interior color up and over the gunwales altogether, so the inside color would be visible from outside on gunwales. In this case, I'd need to think about painting the tanks a separate color to break up all the monotony of the inside color.

Decisions....

I disagree.

I think the inwale spacers, the inwale, and the gunwale including the rabbet should be one color, but the interior color would extend up into the inwale space to the rabbet.

Tough and challenging, but it would highlight the rabbet, and keep the gunwale/inwale structure one color.

In short, be true to the ply, and be true to the timber. It would look really good, and you'd be doing it right. Good luck!!!

Hi Clint, I'm sitting here at my CAD sketching up the inwhale to locate the spacers such that they will coincide with the sidearms and hide the top end of the sidearm. Anyway, I added some color to the model to represent your two paint scheme choices as I understand them.

See if this helps any. I think I like the first one better as it shows off the inwhale structure but like you said the second one is easier 'cause it hides the paint transition.

Oh snap Simon!

Number 1!

Yep, you got that right.

You guys are just too clever!

MIK

Looks like I have some taping magic in my future. #1 for sure. The color goes inside the spacer block area by about 3/8" to cover the rabbeted rail.

So the strategy would be like if it were varnish. No tape, paint gunwales. Then tape off gunwales and paint interior and ext. colors. The tape will follow the rabbet on the inside. Will be fun, but time consuming.

Cheers all<
Clint

Do you have a favorite paint recommendation? I'm trying to decide between 2 part poly like Perfection which is amazing but hard to touch up dings. Or single part like Brightsides. I'm only painting the outside.

Darn...

I thought I had my color scheme revised and figured out...

Now I'm reconsidering - again!

Originally Posted by Boatmik

I was wondering why you didn't round up and go into the dock after passing it. But the camera boom explains everything!!!

Nicely done.

With the slapping of the bow going upwind, the way I would normally get rid off it is by moving forward - not aft. Only move aft going upwind when the bow is going so deep into the waves you are getting water aboard or the bow is going so deep that you lose speed.

But main thing ... try different things!

Best wishes
Michael

We were being very careful not to break our new camera boom. If I rounded up and the wind caught the bow and blew it over to the other tack, we would be headed into the other dock and there would be no way to protect the camera boom. It sticks out away from the boat by 5 feet. So in effect I have a 20ft6in boat trying to fit inside a 20ft wide boat ramp if I screwed up.

I have gone back and looked at a few pictures folks have taken of our boat sailing. In most cases I have been sailing it "bow down" intuitively. My favorite spot to sit is right at the oar lock, while my crew is on the middle seat.

That's a really nice set of vid there. Thanks for showing it.

(Not on a Goat but) we had a great sail last Saturday too. Nice to know it was good conditions across the globe.

Hi John,
Sweet videos. Keep posting these and there will be a nice big goat fleet in the U.S. in no time. I like your sling preventer to the forward boom end - a nice solution, that does not restrict boom rotation. That paint job rocks.