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28th August 2009, 04:04 PM #136
Third coat's on.
Picture to satisfy those doubting types who think I'm doing this in my imagination
And I've just realised I forgot to pull the tape before coming inside. Ah well, it can stay there, a quick with with the sandpaper will free the edges and up she'll come
Oh goody, I get to do lots and lots of sanding tomorrow what with all the bulkheads and the sides Maybe I'll go boating in the rain instead
Richard
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28th August 2009 04:04 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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28th August 2009, 04:10 PM #137
What pic
Nah that grain looks interesting on the transom
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28th August 2009, 04:19 PM #138
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29th August 2009, 09:10 AM #139
If it is as cool as the Redback on Redback, that will be great.
MIK
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29th August 2009, 10:41 AM #140
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31st August 2009, 10:05 PM #141
I started stuffing around with that skinny little, triangular stick thing that goes in the pointy bit of the boat today.
STORER, WHAT ON EARTH WERE YOU THINKING!
Dainty, delicate, fiddly flaming thing to make. Surely just tying the bow together and whacking in a fat slug of a fillet would work better.
Meanwhile, anyone who's managed to make one of these things, please feel free to offer advice ... though I'm about to head out into the shed and continue my pathetic efforts
Richard
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31st August 2009, 10:30 PM #142SENIOR MEMBER
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Richard, You should have seen the size of the stem before the corrections, even skinnier!
Kids made ours by cutting on the bandsaw and planing to the line. The hardest part, and most important part, is to make sure the stem (glue) surface is not convex, but concave so that the glue can stay in there. Usually, I'm used to having my stem bevel be off enough with kids that I don't worry about this...the gap in the stem means the glue won't get excessively squeezed out.
The stem looks prettier than the fillet!
Clint
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31st August 2009, 10:30 PM #143Intermediate Member
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- Jan 2009
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- São Paulo, Brazil
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Frightening, isnt it? I followed the idea from a photo blog set - not at my office computer so have not got the link - will post it when I get to the office. The idea is to mark the lines carefully and then saw carefully down to the lines vertically at 2cm (1inch) intervals. Then hack out the intervening bits of wood with a sharp chisel, then a rasp and sandpaper. If the wood has good, regular grain this works. When I did it, one unexpected chunk of wood came out beyond the lines - I filled with that epoxy filler paste and sanded it down again. Does not look pretty, but it will not be visible
Any help?
Steve
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31st August 2009, 11:03 PM #144
Well, I've done it.
Piccies shown below.
Planing the rectangular shape isn't so hard although the bit of wood I had was a good cm oversize and that needed planing down.
The difficulty is in making the triangular section.
I did this by nailing some sticks to the bench and using these as a rest - visible in the photos. For the first side, I had the stem piece sitting flat on the bench and this worked well. To do the other cut though, I found that no only was the plane too far tilted, the angle of the planing pressures tended to flick the stem out ... so I added a couple more props to make the planing surface more or less horizontal. This supported the stem to enable me to do the second cut, all done with the plane.
Initially, the rear support was shorter than the stem and I found this allowed the stem to flick out as soon as you started planing - adding the second piece to make that back support full length cured that problem.
The underneath supports for the second cut would have been better full length too but I didn't have another stick long enough. You do want them to support the stem right out near the tip, otherwise you'll find yourself flicking the stem out - I planed a corner off my piece of scrap so that the stem was resting flat upon it.
The best solution would be to have a purpose built triangular rest for the stem to sit in but I wasn't going to make something like that for this job.
Anyways, it's been done. My stem is a mm or two undersized at the top unfortunately but if you lot promise not to tell Mik, he won't lose any sleep over it
Richard
and a quick look tells me that these posts were about an hour apart - in that time, I planed the bevels on the stem, uploaded the photos and made this post, plus was distracted by Jan turning up for a chat - the job is scary rather than long
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31st August 2009, 11:27 PM #145Intermediate Member
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- Jan 2009
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- São Paulo, Brazil
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Glad you managed it. Found the link (it is actually the Duckworks site) - has some other useful tips so here it is:
www.duckworksmagazine.com/08/projects/gis
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31st August 2009, 11:47 PM #146
Mate, did you buy those perfect shavings from the 'Look-Busy Woodworker's Centre'? They sell dirty leather aprons, pre-chewed carpenters pencils, full vacuum bags and spray-on boot dust too...
Not often we are treated to evidence of plane work here. Glad you sorted it out. Never doubted you would.
I'm off to the airport now...
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1st September 2009, 12:24 AM #147
I didn't see your post until I came back in to announce success ... and then I had Jan waiting while I put up my post so I wasn't able to acknowledge yours or Clints.
As for your method of cutting to the line and then chiselling out the bits - great method and I've used it for other jobs and yes, don't you just love being let down by a bit of wonky grain in the timber. In this case, I was pretty sure I could get the plane to work and sure enough, I did ... sort of.
Now to wander off to your GIS link to see what they've done there
Richard
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1st September 2009, 12:27 AM #148
They're possibly just a wee bit too fat, they're not those lovely rice paper thin wafers you can get if you're really really lucky/skilled. However, the job was to remove timber in a hurry and that was happening - I reckon they're just a poofteenth inside the max thickness shaving you can cut cleanly
What are you doing at the airport? Should we watch the news?
Richard
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1st September 2009, 10:22 AM #149
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1st September 2009, 10:32 AM #150
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