Thread: The Little Black Dog - MSD Rowing Skiff - Adelaide OZ

Cut the middle seat top to size and shape, then fitted the side cleats for the middle seat. The cleats were easier than expected - simply cut a bit of 19 x 19 to length, mark and hack out a gap for the butt strap, mark the amount of bevel needed (I marked this from the boat rather than use Mik's measurements ... which might be right for all I know), then planed the bevel.

I glued them on using the clamps Mik shows in the plans. I haven't seen these before and was impressed with how well they worked.

Richard

Hm I see the bit is between the teeth I'd better get a wriggle on.

Originally Posted by m2c1Iw

Hm I see the bit is between the teeth I'd better get a wriggle on.

I think I've hit a phase where it's easy to achieve a lot quickly. Mind you, there'll be a lot of coating and painting and stuff involved in putting the seat tops on

Binks only had the fast hardener for West Systems and I started using that today. It's certainly freaky having the poxy go off so quickly, though working times haven't been affected ... so far. I'm reminded of stinking hot days where, when using the slow hardener, the muck goes off like super glue. There also seems to be more heat in the pot. Maybe keeping both the fast and the slow hardener on hand is a good move. Any thoughts PAR?

Richard

I've used the fast right through the year in the past. You get time more from good handling methods and preplanning. The difference between fast and slow is not enough to save you if you are not organised.

Getting the 'pox out on the surface is the key so that heat can get away.

Organised is such a terrible word. I have never been in my life .. but for boats I am "organised" by doing a dry run first whenever I am in doubt.

I will be just down the road from PAR in another couple of days.

MIK

Originally Posted by Boatmik

I've used the fast right through the year in the past. You get time more from good handling methods and preplanning. The difference between fast and slow is not enough to save you if you are not organised.

My biggest concern would be with large or long gluing areas, something like a 15' gunwale - by the time you prime one surface, mix up another batch, thicken it, smear the other surface, find you need another batch, mix it up, thicken it, smear it on, you're well down the setting path and that's before you discover that your dry run didn't allow for the timber to be greased up by the poxy

I'm not really anticipating any problems though. Hot weather will be the big concern, but mainly because I'm stupid enough to be gluing up on days in the high thirties

It'll be interesting.

Oh, and I spotted another blue yesterday. Look up the photo showing the seat stringers for the front seat. Notice how I carefully put in a nice big fillet to support that stringer? Apart from adding un-necessary weight (which I've already commented on), it occurs to me that the hull cleats could go right up there. If doing it again, I'd fit the centre stringer but not fillet it, then when installing the side cleats, fit them in against the centre stringer - not needed for seat support but would support the centre stringer, be lighter and would be neater into the bargain ... in an area where if anyone ever sees it in real life, you've got bigger problems than the neatness of your work (see Alex, I too can obsess about stuff).

Richard

I had a pleasant hour in the shed this morning - lovely weather, promise of a nice outing this arvo, the sort of wood working I enjoy and best of all, nothing buggered

These two photos show the centre seat sitting in place, not glued or anything, but it gives an idea of how it looks - you can see either end of that limber tunnel.

Attachment 119370 Attachment 119371

And now for this morning's effort, shaping the front seat top. It came out rather well methinks. Next step will be to mark out where the hull cleats go and to fit them.

Attachment 119369

Richard

Looking really good there, Richard!

Bob

It is very happymaking to hear a happy Richard!

Not only did it go well ... it looks good too!

Wandered out to the shed. We've had the first of the warm weather with temperatures approaching 30, hotter in the shed. The first thing I found? My seat tops have warped Not badly, maybe 5mm over the width of the seat, and the epoxy will pull them down okay come gluing time, but it is annoying ... and probably means that weights won't be enough to hold the things in place dammit .

I shrugged that off and fitted the side cleats for the front seat (them wooden things along the hull that the seat top sits on )

As Mik says in his plans, the cleat has too much twist to do in one piece and he suggests two pieces. He doesn't give a length but if you lay your stick along the hull, it's pretty clear where to make the cut. I also planed the back of the cleat to sit flush on the hull, but that's overkill ... though probably worth it near the front of the boat. I didn't use the bevel distance suggested in the plans, rather, I clamped the cleat in place and measured the bevel to suit the boat.

And once again, that clamping method works a treat

Richard

That clamping method is even better because it doesn't LOOK like it will work. I doubt I was the first person to invent it .. but I did work it out myself. One of the very few things I have not stolen!

Maybe subliminally?!

MIK

Originally Posted by Boatmik

That clamping method is even better because it doesn't LOOK like it will work. I doubt I was the first person to invent it .. but I did work it out myself. One of the very few things I have not stolen!

Maybe subliminally?!

MIK

I expected it to push the cleat down the hull but it doesn't, not even when everything's greased with epoxy. Mind you, I've got the inwale fitted so the stick doing the clamping isn't pushing at an angle. No matter, I'll be using it again

My amount of available building time has been slashed dramatically too - I seem to have found some full time work for a bit

Richard

Now that I've got some work, I got all keen and excited and bought myself a present

Back about post 281, we were talking about hatches with bags. Well, I bought one ... at horrendous expense - $40

The brand is 'nairn' from New Zealand, sold in my local chandlery in packets labelled 'Waterline'.

Attachment 120187

The hatch has a lower lip. The bag has a ring sewn into the top. The ring sits in the lip. The hatch cover screws down upon it's own seat, not upon the bag - you don't need the bag in there to get a good seal and, in fact, all their 5" hatches (apart from the really cheap ones) have this lip and you can buy the bags seperately.

Attachment 120188

Plenty big enough to take a wallet and it's long enough to take a small thermos.

Attachment 120189

The bag lifts out easily so that if, like me, you store your boat without the hatches in place, you can remove the bag to let the tank air.

The bag is made out of very heavy nylon but is only sewn so it's not truly waterproof, though if you've enough water in your tank for long enough for this to be an issue, you're in real trouble

My middle seat now has two compartments. One side will get a 6" hatch so I can get all sorts of stuff into it and the other side will get this baggie arrangement for my keys and mobile phone and wallet and that interesting magazine I found on the dock when launching

On a related note. I was looking at their marine paints. International Brightside is actually slightly cheaper (a few dollars if that) than buying exterior enamels at Bunnings so, the cheap route, is to buy the right stuff

Richard

Rear seat side cleats fitted
Made a bit of a meal of it, mainly due to being tired and particularly hamfisted ... which is why there's a piece of curiously shaped timber broken into four pieces in the rubbish bin But I perservered, comforted by the knowledge that once I glue the seat top on, if anyone ever sees those cleats, my workmanship will be the least of my worries Actually, the final result wasn't too bad but the first half hour or so was fraught with colourful terminology and rampant incompetence. Funny how we have those moments and then manage to come through them ... thank goodness

Richard

Originally Posted by Daddles

Actually, the final result wasn't too bad but the first half hour or so was fraught with colourful terminology and rampant incompetence. Funny how we have those moments and then manage to come through them ... thank goodness

Richard

I too had one of those days today. After successfully shaping my centreboard, a simple job like breadboarding the ends went pear shaped. In disgust I just packed everything up and had a Coopers. Will correct it in the morning

By the way, my 25 litre waterproof bag arrived this week. I should have bought more of them at the price Should tuck nicely under the GIS seat.