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Thread: New Aussie Build
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21st October 2008, 07:09 PM #46GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Daniel,
It is one of those things and in a couple of months you would have forgotten about it. It has happened to me a few times and will probably happen again - too trusting of people. Just balance it out with the times you have come out in front.
Yes we need some photos - been a lack of those lately and I have been tempted to post a boring progrss shot of my stand.
Help me out here and post some interesting photos.Cheers,
Rod
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21st October 2008 07:09 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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21st October 2008, 08:18 PM #47SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks rod, its not a bad way of looking at things. Its just annoying when you budget for things and organise things around what you do and it just never works. I am a little too trusting sometimes too. As long as i can get somethings done, ill be happy. Hopefully with what i have i can get alot done. I have to bolt the rails on, get the rack and pinion drilled and tapped into place(once i figure out where the spring engaged pinion and timing gear will go) get the paint scheme going and oh of course the most important thing, think of a name to give this build. So i guess ive still got alot to do and wouldn't benefit from pushing too far ahead. (although, i wouldn't mind to put the main legs/spacers on to get it off the floor and make it look somewhat similar to a cnc. lol.)
As for the photos, i would like to see the stand and dont think it would be boring. Anyway, who said my photos were going to be any better. lol.
Daniel
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21st October 2008, 08:56 PM #48Member
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Hello Twisted
Sorry to hear about your financial upset, I think most of us here have the same " experience " one way or another, like you said get a quote, maybe ask another bloke for a quote to, after all when you get a builder in you get several quotes, don't you 8-)).
As a suggestion, have a look on the Mechmate site, they use a 3M double sided tape to tape the rack to the frame, big machines and appears not to be a problem, the tape isn't all that expensive either, I bought a roll ( 50m?? ) in sydeny last month and it was about $70.00ish ( age ) info on the 3M site indicates parts joined with the tape is stronger than welding - and easier to ( you won't need to have the holes drilled either ) This was lifted off the MM site, under " Driving Mechanisms: Rack/pinion, gears, screws, belts & chains " Specs:3M™ VHB™ Tape 4611, firm foam, general purpose acrylic adhesive, dark gray, thickness 0.045 in. (1.1 mm), red PE film liner. UL 746C
Hope this helps
Ed
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21st October 2008, 09:44 PM #49GOLD MEMBER
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Daniel,
That is going to be one big machine.
Ed,
I wish I had faith in adhesive but I have seen it fail where an mechanical fixing would not have. I am old school when it comes to these sorts of thing but I am sure adhesives have improved over the years. After all the Shuttle survives and the tiles are only held on with adhesive.Cheers,
Rod
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21st October 2008, 10:06 PM #50SENIOR MEMBER
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On the Mechmate because of where the rack is positioned under the angle it would be impossible to bolt from the top. In this case it is not difficult.
If it is any consolation those rails look pretty smicko Daniel.
Greg
PS, the shuttle survives sometimes........
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21st October 2008, 10:30 PM #51SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks all,
Its good to see some structure. The size has me in doubt sometimes, not knowing if ill use the size or wether i would have been better off with a smaller one which would have been cheaper and quicker but then i look at all the times i wish i had a bigger machine and i think that if i even use it once, it'll have paid for itself.
I agree with rod unfortunately, i just wouldn't belive that tape could replicate a solid mechanical mate, and even if it did i wouldn't bet my life on it and would prefere to be 100% sure. I may look at getting some to mock the rails in place with small bits and use that to drill the rack, then remove it once all the bolts are in place.
Daniel
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22nd October 2008, 12:15 AM #52SENIOR MEMBER
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- Feb 2008
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Just curious about your rack and pinion,
what lenth did you get and what did it set you back?
Ive been looking into the R&P and it just seems extremely expencive (only asked my local bearing shop who have to special order it in.)
BTW about sticking it down how about liquid steel? (Only just heard about this so not sure if its usable)
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22nd October 2008, 08:13 AM #53
Live and learn
well we all live and learn from our mistakes as well as others. At least you now have the rails and if anything can sitn back and look at the grand scale.
Sounds like you need to get on your knees and beg the other half (boss) for that pay rise.LOLRAOTF.
Keepus posted.
Mick
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22nd October 2008, 09:37 AM #54
Daniel,
I am at about the same stage as you, I think. I have my channels and got my legs back from a mate last night who welded some base plates on for me. I still have not got the bill from my machinist ... I hope that it hasn't taken this long for them to add up the cost!! Can you tell me what the machinist cost was ... either here or PM, so that I can compare when I get my bill?
I will probably be spending the next month trying to get the balls back into my ballnut that I stuffed!
Cheers,
Alan4 out of 3 people have trouble with fractions.
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22nd October 2008, 11:20 AM #55SENIOR MEMBER
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Hello All,
Blueray:
The rack and pinion was from TEA transmissions and it was basic spur gear and rack (module 1). It was just over $250 for 2 of 2000mm length, 2x pinions and postage to the doorstep by TNT couriers. I thought it was quite good. I was thinking about getting helical rack and pinion but it was dearer so i would check which type they are offering you.
Mick:
I may be desperate but im not that bad. lol. I think a few trips to newcastle will cover it. )
Zoot:
If your machininst was a manual machinist i doubt you'll get anywhere near what i was quoted, if he was a cnc machinist i doubt you'll get to the same price either. lol. As for your feet, did you bolt feet to the back face of the channel or are you bolting them to the bottom face of the channel. Im thinking of the second so i dont have to cut sections out. Also what size RHS did you use for the legs? Ill shoot you a PM.
Daniel
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22nd October 2008, 02:13 PM #56SENIOR MEMBER
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Heres another good one,
Went to a local shop for some s/s socket head cap screws (M6 x 30mm long) got a quote of $90 for box of 100. Rang closest Blackwoods dealers and got quoted $25 pick up or $35 with courier. LOL. Just shows you should always double check your prices.
Now onto paint. I wentto the local paint peope to have a look at he paints available. There is quite a range of primers and paint. From wht i can see the best option would be to use some epoxy based paint. Im sure it would dry hard and handle the abuse. Now as ths is pretty much the most expensive, am i going overboard with the paint. What have others used, what do you all recommend? steps for prepping the steel etc?
Daniel
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22nd October 2008, 02:52 PM #57
Daniel,
My channels are 150 x 75 x 1800 long and my legs are 65 x 65 RHS. I have a 200 x 60 plate welded onto the top of the legs sticking up 100mm and I am going to bolt it to the back of the channel ... it reduces my effective width by 12mm overall, but I thought that the plate up the back would give better support for the channel. My cross members will also be bolted to the u/c of the channel and to the legs, so hopefully when it is all bolted down to the floor it should be nice and solid.
Cheers,
Alan
PS: thanks for the PM ... I will let you know when my machinist's bill comes in. He said about 2 hours machining. I am doing the holes myself ... Greg reckons it is good therapy!!4 out of 3 people have trouble with fractions.
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22nd October 2008, 03:36 PM #58SENIOR MEMBER
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Alan
In effect the legs become part of the structure and play a roll in truing everything up.
When the table support cross pieces are bolted under the channel and the legs are bolted to the channel as well, then the bracing between each leg comes into play.
What I did was get that much assembled and lay a good straight edge across the tops where the rails will sit. Then fit the lower cross brace to the legs.
The legs can be pushed apart or pulled together slightly till the straight edge reads perfect. Remembering the rail spacing needs to end up exact at the same time.
Does that all make sense? Probably not.
Greg
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22nd October 2008, 04:02 PM #59
Greg,
It all makes imminent sense. I was going to put the bottom spreaders in first, but will fit them as you suggest.
I hope to get at it soon ... BAS statements finished today ... bedroom painting finished and all my fixing turned up today from Coventry Fasteners. So there is not a lot holding me back! Oh! the aluminium!! Have to go to Sydney soon to meet up with Ned Kelly's friends at Capral.
I just bought a whole stack of Blackbutt to get me started on my signs when I finish 'Alpha Zoot' ... thinking of changing its name to 'Dooverlackey'. Blackbutt was 290 x 35 and 170 x 35 and whilst Blackbutt is not an overly brilliant timber, it is hard, will stand up to weather (I think) and is a light to medium colour which will allow me to paint the v-carved letters with dark coloured paint and get a goood contrast.
Thanks for your continuing suggestions, much appreciated.
Cheers,
Alan4 out of 3 people have trouble with fractions.
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22nd October 2008, 04:58 PM #60SENIOR MEMBER
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I remembered you are using round rails and not THK type. So what I was saying is not so critical in your case. So much for my waffle.
Blacckbutt sounds good.
I got my BAS done yesterday. That is good for me, it is usually a mad rush on the last day.
Greg
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