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  1. #121
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

    Default

    I like a challenge so when I was asked to do a computer table mounted off the wall I came up with this idea. I had some 32mm MDF and the finished size is 2000 by 450mm. A carved edge strip took care of the raw edges and then by indexing on the machine three times I covered the 2 metres of design. I could have done it in two moves but due to the design spreading over the job it was much safer to break it into three parts.

    Finish is 6 coats of sprayed on Mirrortone.

    The design was done by my son in Aspire and the grey colouring is to match the wall it is to be fixed to. Note the acknowledgement engraved in the design.

    It is his business name and he will be fitting a 6mm glass top to it on Tuesday so I will follow up with it fixed to the wall and the glass top in place.
    Cheers,
    Rod

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  3. #122
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Bundaberg, QLD
    Age
    56
    Posts
    502

    Default

    Nice one rod. So how did you the carving on the edges?

  4. #123
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

    Default

    Thanks John,
    Sorry I should have said something about that - I cheated and got some edging off the shelf at the big green wharehouse.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  5. #124
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Bundaberg, QLD
    Age
    56
    Posts
    502

    Default

    LOL, Ya Cheat!!

    I was thinking you must have done some sort of uber set-up alignment and part flip to get both side of the curve... or you snuck out and got a 5 axis machine

  6. #125
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA (Ellenbrook)
    Age
    73
    Posts
    430

    Default

    Really nice job Rod.

    Cheers

  7. #126
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

    Default

    John,
    I am trying to feel shame.
    The section was a pain to mitre and get the design matching across the corners as well as each end matching so I reckon I worked hard enough on that.

    Thanks Geoff,
    This is part two of the design on my spoil board that you saw last week. I have to tell you my toes curled under each time I indexed the job. It turns out it is easier to index a job than what I thought it would be. I just slid the job through a measured amount then chopped the same amount off the material size of the drawing and moved the design accordingly. I had a days work and a few bucks invested in making the table top so I would not have been happy if I had mucked it up on the machine.

    As a matter of interest the engraving "Design by Brett" is only 2mm high and I used one of those three flute carbide cutters.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  8. #127
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

    Default

    Fixed to the wall and the glass top in place.
    On reflection maybe black colouring in the engraving might have made it look better but it was done in grey to match the walls.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  9. #128
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NOWRA
    Posts
    648

    Default

    either way it looks good. well done.

    Daniel

  10. #129
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Townsville NQ
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Hi Rod, you have some great work here.
    Just built my first CNC machine and am looking for projects now! Have been searching for ideas on how to make my engravings stand out. What method do you use to paint your engravings?
    I would like to carve something like the horse head that you show in post #46. Would you still have the files, and if so would you be willing to share them?
    Jon

  11. #130
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

    Default

    Hi Jon,
    No sorry I don't have or can't find that job.
    Trick to painting is sealing the job first. A quick coat of sanding sealer is good enough. Cut your job exposing the unsealed timber. I use a stippling (?) brush and apply a liberal coat of acrylic colour from one of those artist supplies. You can pick up a tube or bottle of paint for around $3.00 to $5.00 from a $2:00 shop or Bunnings. I then use a silicone block used for flushing plaster joints to get the excess off the face - see post 110. Wait for it to almost dry then use a lighly dampened cloth tightly wrapped around a timber block and rub it across the face.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  12. #131
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Townsville NQ
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thanks Rod. Can you give a little more info on the silicone block. I have tried a few hardware stores and they all give a blank stare and say "A silicone WHAT?"

    Jon

    PS my machine in its build stages can be seen here ......

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84251

  13. #132
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

    Default

    The blocks are used for flushing gyprock and available from Heatley Sales.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  14. #133
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Melbourne - Mexico
    Posts
    655

    Default

    Well, probably not as good as Rods machining but here is my 1st part from my new machine.

    This will hand over the dunny as the current ventilation is a flyscreen shroud that looks ugly and lets lots of ventilation in (hot in summer and cold in winter)

  15. #134
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

    Default

    No - better than my machining.
    Love the design and if you are feeling generous I would like the dxf so I can use it for a small narrow hall table for the kids. A sheet of glass on top would make it an interesting piece of furniture.
    Good to see you up and running.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  16. #135
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Cockatoo Vic
    Posts
    996

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by seafurymike View Post
    .................... here is my 1st part from my new machine.
    Well done Mike. Good to see it happening.

    Greg

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