Thread: GNR Stirling Locomotive

Well I have to ensure I have ready components on hand for my loco😁

Originally Posted by Dalboy

Hope the cabin stays nice and straight. Mind you once you start to add bits and pieces to it that will give it some more strength




You really know how to treat a woman Keith

Derek,

I have made up some box section guarding that covers the wheels where they protrude into the cabin (as per the prototype). This will be connected to the flooring and side walls to give support and strength. This along with the front firewall and the operating cabin gear will give good strength (I reckon)

Regards

Keith

Hi Guys

(especially Ray, Kevin and Derek)

Here are some of Cathie's other watches. Just to show I am not a real Tight a..e.

Oldest is the pocket watch which was inherited from her great Auntie - it is dated 1911 (Cathie's not that old) It is REAL gold.

The others cannot be worn because she has an allergy to metal on her wrist (Why did I buy them??)

Anyway thought I would share with you

Regards

Keith

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So now its time to make tracks , the pocket watch would be a good prop to go with an appropriately attired Station Master, you know, flag in 1 hand, watch in other to see the train leave on time

Originally Posted by rwbuild

So now its time to make tracks , the pocket watch would be a good prop to go with an appropriately attired Station Master, you know, flag in 1 hand, watch in other to see the train leave on time

Excellent idea Ray.

Well Done mate

Regards

Keith

G'day Keith. All those long Monday phone calls to Trevor have certainly paid dividend here.
I am simply amazed at your ingenuity and imagination going ahead in leaps and bounds.
Very well done. Cheers Peter

Originally Posted by crowie

G'day Keith. All those long Monday phone calls to Trevor have certainly paid dividend here.
I am simply amazed at your ingenuity and imagination going ahead in leaps and bounds.
Very well done. Cheers Peter

Thanks Peter,

I really appreciate your comments. Trevor is a Master of "thinking outside the square". He NEVER said you cannot do anything if you put your mind to it - even if it meant throwing something out 20 times until you were satisfied with it. I am only at about 40% of what he could achieve - but it all comes down to what you are satisfied in yourself. This loco has had about 50% trials stuff done behind the scenes - particularly working with the PVC - It is incredible stuff. Also the ratio of hardener to Bodyfiller is a real challenge. Loving it. I do owe Trevor a lot with his tips - miss him a lot.

Regards

Keith

HiAll,

I have been working on the cabin of my loco. I had a concern that the PVC that I shaped wouldn't be sturdy enough so I did a bit of experimentation and added some extra securing points to the PVC.
I laminated 2 pieces of 3mm thick PVC by using the Primer and PVC glue. The primer (red) is a must I think becuse it tends to etch into the pvc and you add the glue (blue) whilst still liquid on the surface. I then cut these into 15mm lengths and glued them to the shaped PVC cabin.

I made up the front wall of the cabin using 6mm MDF. This has a hole cut so the boiler will protrude into it and it will look like a solid join when complete.

I drilled the PVC lugs with a 3/16" clearance hole. Then aligned the front wall to the side cabin and drilled and countersunk. The front and side are now secured with screws and nuts. The screws will be shortened eventually and then the heads filled with bodyfiller and sanded.

I then made up an inside "dummy" wall of the cabin. I had to cut out the lugs sections on this to allow it to fit in. This also allows the 3mm glass window portals to be seated in position. I can remove this and work on all my cabin controls and gauges and the fit it all in when completed.

The photo showing the wheel covers shows that I glued PVC sheet onto the sides of my wooden covers. The glue does adhere PVC to wood pretty well - but you can prise it off with a screwdiver. I will eventually glue the PVC cabin to the PVC on the side of the covers so it will never come off.

The last photo shows the cabin just sitting in position.

Regards

Keith

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Hi All,

One of my concerns was how was I going to make the splash guard on the front wheels of the Stirling. I used A4 copy paper and kept sketching up the shape and then cutting out with scissors - then placing the paper in position beside the loco until I got the correct shape and dimensions.
After about 10 goes on one side I got the shape I wanted then glued the paper onto 3mm MDF and then cut the shape with the bandsaw. Smoothed with file and then sanded and then glued on a support bracket. The guard is screwed into the bottom of the piston assembly.

The other side was easier - reversed the stencil I had made and then did a bit of modification of the drawing to suit. Then followed the same steps as above.

Regards

Keith

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Keith, when you get steam up there seems to be no stopping you.
A part every few days, or at least one a week, soon you will be onto the tender coupling.

Originally Posted by Handyjack

Keith, when you get steam up there seems to be no stopping you.
A part every few days, or at least one a week, soon you will be onto the tender coupling.

Thanks Kevin.

Bowls is pretty much over - so full steam ahead on the loco.

Not sure whether to start doing some of the paintwork and assembly or continue until all components made and primed and then onto the paintwork ???

Bit unsure.

Anyway - bowls - Club Triples Semi Final in the morning - then onto the loco when I get home

Regards

Keith

Originally Posted by Keith_1

Anyway - bowls - Club Triples Semi Final in the morning - then onto the loco when I get home

Regards

Keith

How you go with bowls today Keith??

Originally Posted by crowie

How you go with bowls today Keith??

Peter,

We lost - season over - full throttle onto the Stirling. Thanks for your interest.

All the Best

Keith

Hi all,

Onto the Stirling in ernest now. This next part was a pain in getting it correct. It is the handrail that goes around the front of the loco and then down both sides of the boiler.
I used 4mm mild steel rod. The supports are 4mm split pins. I made up aluminium ferrules that are drilled 4mm and then tapered on the outside. I slid these up the split pins and then araldited in position. The rod was one piece 1600mm long. The radiused section at the front was bent around a jig I made out of pine. The difficult part was drilling into the boiler at the correct angle so the handrail remained straight along the length. I made up a little guide pin out of one of the 4mm split pins so I could mark the position of the holes to drill.

Regards

Keith

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