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23rd September 2010, 10:35 PM #1New Member
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Noob alert ! Box trailer questions - terminology
Hi Guys,
I love the forums. Sooooo much useful and informative information, and to top it off, it's not expert jargon, so a layman like myself can understand most of it. Oh, and I love that people are able to ask really basic questions and I haven't seen anyone get flamed for it yet !
So, that brings me to my turn.
I'm embarking on a box trailer build soon - because I need one, but I also want the satisfaction of making it myself. It will be an under 750kg one...no brakes...nothing flash....about 7.5 x 4-ish (reading Yonnee's build I saw that width was determined by axle length - good idea).
The only thin I am now stuck on is the running gear and coupling.
I'm in Sydney, so if anyone knows a good supplier of axles, hubs, and couplings etc that will treat me with respect, that would be good.
BUT, what I'd like to know, is what I actually need and the right terminology.
* 5 leaf slipper springs with hangers and whatever the other end is called?
* a 39-45mm solid axle, or will stubs be okay ? If using stubs, I need to find a round steel tube that just fits over the stub and is welded.
* bearings?
* hubs (or do bearings and hunbs come together?)
With the coupling, what is a standard coupling called? and do the plates come with them? I think they do. Will a 2-hole coupling-plate be okay?
I've been loking online, and most suppliers seem to be in VIC or QLD - what, no trailer spares needed in NSW?
I think that is all I needed to ask for now.
Thanks for reading, and thanks in advance if you are able to reply !
Ross.
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23rd September 2010 10:35 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th September 2010, 10:15 AM #2
Hey Ross, and Welcome aboard!!
Sometimes... the cost saving on your axle can be outweighed by all your wasted offcuts by not making the trailer to standard sheet sizes. Also, your wheel and tyre choice will effect the axle length too.
The only thing I am now stuck on is the running gear and coupling.
I'm in Sydney, so if anyone knows a good supplier of axles, hubs, and couplings etc that will treat me with respect, that would be good.
BUT, what I'd like to know, is what I actually need and the right terminology.
* 5 leaf slipper springs with hangers and whatever the other end is called?
"Rear Slipper Hanger"
If you buy a spring set, you should get everything you need without having to ask for individual items.
* a 39-45mm solid axle, or will stubs be okay ? If using stubs, I need to find a round steel tube that just fits over the stub and is welded.
Depends on the confidence you have in your welding, and how much you want to stuff around making your own axle. If you live far from the supplier, and haven't determined what width the trailer will be, then stubs can be handy, but for the mucking around, I would prefer a solid beam nearly every time. As for size of material, this is determined by the weight you realistically think you'll carry.
- **Material**-*Inner*-*Outer*-(common name)-*capacity*
- 39mm round - Holden/Holden (LM) bearings - 750Kg
- 40mm square - Holden/Holden (LM) bearings - 1000Kg
- 40mm square - Holden/Ford (Composite) bearings - 1100Kg
- 45mm square - Holden/Ford (Composite) bearings - 1300Kg
- 45mm square - Ford/Ford (Slimline) bearings - 1400Kg
Yes, you'll need bearings.
* hubs (or do bearings and hubs come together?)
Both!
"Lazy hubs" can be bought separately to bearings or as a package. The bearings are determined by the axle, which is in turn determined by the weight capacity.
(See above)...
With the coupling, what is a standard coupling called? "a Coupling".
They come as 2-bolt, 3-bolt and 4-bolt. It's the braked couplings that have different names.
...and do the plates come with them? I think they do. Not usually. Some fabricate their own, but that's a pain in the neck. How sharp's your 1/2 drill bit?
Will a 2-hole coupling-plate be okay? I prefer 3-bolt, but that's me.
I've been loking online, and most suppliers seem to be in VIC or QLD - what, no trailer spares needed in NSW?Too many projects, so little time, even less money!Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.
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24th September 2010, 01:06 PM #3New Member
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Many thanks Yonnee, you have certainly given me a good start. I also remember in a thread you made reference to checking with manufacturers for incorrectly built axle set ups that may be going cheap, so I'll do that too.
Realistically, I'd expect under 750kg loaded weight - though it may need to take 2 road bikes ~ 200kg each - that would leave only 350kg for the trailer. From some basic calculations, I believe that is more than possible for what I ma building.
EDIT: AL-KO distribute through Trailer City http://www.trailercity.com.au/ who are only about 15 minutes from me. I might try to pop in tomorrow morning and see what I can find.
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24th September 2010, 03:25 PM #4New Member
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Oh, and it looks like I need to get my wheels and tyres first too in order to work out the tyre width and rim to tyre offset which all then has an impact on axle length and/or chassis width.
I'm just going to find some standard commodore rims (I have a late model Commo currently) and get some standard tyres put on.
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25th September 2010, 09:29 AM #5
Not necessarily. If you've decided to go Commodore, then you just need to determine the actual trailer width. All Commodore rims are pretty much the same stud pattern and offset, so you can fairly safely order the axle 18" longer than the chassis width. Personally, I would go with early Commodore 14" or 15", VB-VZ, as tyres for these are much cheaper. Also, once you go 16x7's, 215 tyres are a tight squeeze under a standard trailer guard.
Too many projects, so little time, even less money!Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.
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26th September 2010, 11:12 AM #6I would go with early Commodore 14" or 15"
Ideally would like to be able to run 16's (being the current base model standard rim) but I wouldnt have the clearance as Yonnee says.www.lockwoodcanvas.com.au
I will never be the person who has everything, not when someone keeps inventing so much cool new stuff to buy.
From an early age my father taught me to wear welding gloves . "Its not to protect your hands son, its to put out the fire when u set yourself alight".
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26th September 2010, 11:24 AM #7New Member
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Thanks guys. My 'late model' commodore is actually a VZ ... 5yrs old now ... but with my history of cars, that is very late model
so if my chassis is 4.5' (54") wide on the outside, I would be safe getting a 72" axle ? This would give 9" on ech side. How much of a gap does this leave between the inside tyre wall and the chassis?
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26th September 2010, 09:14 PM #8
If you ran 14" rims with 185 tyres, then roughly 40mm, If you got 15's with 205 tyres, then the clearance reduces to around 30mm.
Bear in mind though, a single axle trailer doesn't have a great deal of suspension movement or sideways tyre flex, so 30mm will still be fine.Too many projects, so little time, even less money!Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.
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27th September 2010, 12:38 PM #9New Member
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Thanks for that info ! I'll see what my car's current rims and tyres are, and probably just plan with the same. In fact, I might even be putting mags on the commo, and can then use the current rims for the trailer. We'll see.
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9th October 2010, 08:51 AM #10
Hi i found a web site www.activefabrications.com.au/
unfortunatly they are near Brisbane but if you have your wheels they can make an axile any lenghth you want
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