Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 31 to 42 of 42
Thread: How to do these drawers?
-
23rd October 2019, 05:09 PM #31The primary differences I see are:
1. The placement of the legs. The legs on the second example are placed further from the table edges and are contained within the plan shape of the top.
2. The drawers on the first example appear to incorporate cock beading, The second example doesn't have this detail.
3. The first example seems to be veneered board with solid wood edging on all four edges. The second example doesn't have this detail.
I did not see those differences until you pointed them out. The interesting part is the cock beading on the first example (which is the one sent to me by my niece). She specifically requested that the drawers look like a single piece (i.e. flush and no centre divider), which rules out cock beading.
Which leg placement is better, top or bottom (above)? I think that I prefer the top - less like something "perched" on top of legs.
There have been a number of ingenious ideas presented here - which I hoped for, and I'm sure we have all admired. My knee-jerk reaction to using mechanical fittings is to back away. For example, I am sure that metal under drawer slides are well made, will last forever, and run smoothly. But I am such a traditionalist at heart. I have modern taste in design, but am still strongly connected to the 18 C for construction methods. I just prefer wood-on-wood for drawers.
I do enjoy something challenging, and am so tempted to build (half) circular drawers that pivot. These would not need handles. Part of me rebels and chides myself that these might not become real drawers. Any thoughts about these to tip me one way or the other?
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
-
23rd October 2019 05:09 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
23rd October 2019, 06:01 PM #32
Hi Derek
I understand. However, if you do veneer the drawer fronts, you will want something like cock-beading to protect the veneer edges. The alternative will be to dispense with the veneer drawer fronts. Remember the cock-beading can be as thin as 1/16th inch. Or perhaps even thinner.
I too prefer the first table -- the one with the legs extending outside the table top. Though there is a risk that the legs will be kicked.
I agree that half circular drawers are unlikely to be used. Sorry as I know you would have been up to the challenge. (your harlequin table would have been a better choice for something little used.)regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
-
23rd October 2019, 06:21 PM #33
Derek, your mention of half round pivoting drawers led me to think of pivoting drawer fronts. If the front of the drawer pivots by about 20 degrees 1 side can be pushed in to make the other side pop out enough to be pulled. Then it occurred to me that if the pivot was vertical it would work better.
Drawer opening V2.JPG
Working out how to hinge the front and also how to make it stay vertical when not in use may take some thought - but I'd hazard a guess that you could make it work. Having it up the other way (push top/pull bottom) may be even better because the front is then more likely to sit vertical under its own weight.
Note that you would need a small amount of clearance for the front to pivot without interfering with the table top or bottom. The "push top" variant would suit better because of this - you would already have a small clearance at the top and the drawer front could be given a slight chamfer on the back where it will not be seen..Cheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
-
23rd October 2019, 07:08 PM #34SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Dec 2012
- Location
- Australia
- Posts
- 684
Have an ornament that sits on top of the side table that has an embedded magnet. Something ferrus behind the surface of the drawer front for the magnet to latch onto, the drawer opens, do your biz, push the drawer closed and slide off the magnet. Just an idea. I'd use the blum or grass push to opens personally. Can still dovetail the drawer and they are undermount drawer slides you can't even see them once installed.
-
24th October 2019, 07:01 AM #35
Hi Derek
Building the piece with a pair of flush drawers -- never mind the absence of a centre divider -- will substantially change the look of the piece.
The image sent by the niece has recessed drawers which probably open via a push-it type mechanism. Chamfering the edges of the carcass has allowed the drawers to be recessed by somewhere between 15 and 20 mm. Flush mounted drawers will, IMO, be more than a subtle change to the look of the piece.
Personally, I'd stick with recessed drawers and quiz the niece as to her objection to cock beading. Is it because she anticipates that it will look "clunky" rather than subtle?
Then there is the double booked matched veneer. I strongly suspect that the second example -- the one linked to by you -- uses veneer edging as an equivalent to cock beading. (IMO, veneer edging is the same as cock beading.)
I'm not convinced that even if you use sawn veneers that the cock-beading can be dispensed with. The veneer edges would be just too fragile.
By-the-bye, the drawer fronts in the second example are planted, and the same construction detail is almost certainly repeated in the first.
Food for thought?regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
-
24th October 2019, 07:13 AM #36
Oh
and I should have added ...
Get Rob to send you a couple of sticks of this Simulated Natural Material Rods - Lee Valley Tools one 50 x 150 will be more than enough to turn a pair of discrete pulls -- you just need to decide on the colourregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
-
24th October 2019, 09:52 AM #37GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Helensburgh
- Posts
- 7,695
-
26th October 2019, 12:10 PM #38Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
-
26th October 2019, 05:21 PM #39
Derek
I know, but I was referring to the overall look of the proposed piece.
I know it is only my opinion, but I still consider that flush drawers will be more than a subtle change to the look of the proposed piece for the niece.
For me the "important" consideration is around the use, or not, of double booked matched diagonal veneer on the drawer fronts. This particular detail caught me eye and drew me to the piece.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
-
26th October 2019, 05:28 PM #40
Hi Ian
I wonder if we are talking at crossed purposes? When I say "flush" I do not mean 'in line with the front of the case', but rather 'recessed behind the chamfers, as in the photo, but coplanar, allowing the grain to run across the front, with just a separation of a mm or two between the drawer fronts'.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
-
26th October 2019, 06:02 PM #41
Hi Derek
We are at cross purposes.
By flush I was referring to drawers in line with the front edge of the carcass.
By recessed I was referring to drawers set back (15 to 20mm) from the front of the carcass.
but enough pedantry.
Will the niece's piece incorporate double booked matched veneer? Or have you a well figured board hidden away for just such a project?regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
-
26th October 2019, 06:21 PM #42
Ian, today I purchased some promising boards from Derek Doak - The Timber Bloke. It is all rough sawn, so I have not had a good chance to examine it in great detail. The Jarrah is fiddleback and moderately figured. The top and sides will be book matched and joined as a waterfall. The underside, which will not be seen, is likely to come out of old roofing timbers I have stacked away. Because the case that is seen is likely to be busy-ish, the piece I have for the drawer is quieter, with grain emphasising the horizontal.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
Similar Threads
-
Box with drawers
By Ruddy in forum BOX MAKINGReplies: 13Last Post: 8th March 2017, 09:46 PM -
Drawers for 4wd
By pmccar06 in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 6Last Post: 25th July 2010, 12:45 PM -
Log drawers
By mr.incredible in forum FURNITURE, JOINERY, CABINETMAKING - formerly BIG STUFFReplies: 17Last Post: 24th March 2010, 10:06 AM -
Mdf Drawers
By Squirrel in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 13Last Post: 2nd February 2007, 12:05 PM -
some drawers WIP
By mic-d in forum WOODWORK PICSReplies: 15Last Post: 27th October 2006, 02:14 PM