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Thread: Bearings
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9th February 2014, 06:25 PM #1New Member
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Bearings
Hello all,
I need help with my number 9 Cylindrical
grinder head bearings.
When I grind a shaft with any cut more than .0005 the wheel appears to
bounce away from the work and leave sort of stippled pattern, if I take a small cut and then let
it completely gring out the finish is not too bad looking.
I have removed the spindle and bearings and wondered if anyone has experience
fitting new bearings to a work head. The old bearings are in pairs and are 6206 and 6205 deep groove races
which I'm not sure are original, I was expecting to find angular contact type bearins.
The set up includes 2 sleaves which are spring loaded apart and which I guess would apply
a degree of pre-load to the bearings.
I have included some images
Any help would be much appreciated.
Nick
IMG_6053.jpgIMG_6054.jpg
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9th February 2014 06:25 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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12th February 2014, 08:14 AM #2New Member
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Bearings
I priced precision bearings which are angular contact type in matched pairs,
when I got up off the floor ($740.80) I bought 4 good quality deep groove
sealed ball races ($60)
They are now in the machine and the results are excellent, a very good finish and no mottleing,
Nick.
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18th February 2014, 05:15 PM #3
Hi Nick,
Glad to hear you have sorted it out. You may know already but wheel dressing has a huge effect on the finish and how the machine cuts, as does using an appropriate wheel.
Cheers,
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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19th February 2014, 08:40 AM #4New Member
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bearings
Hi EW,
Thanks for the reply.
What you say is what I have found and I think I was using a soft wheel and
testing it on mild steel. when I tried the same wheel on some high carbon steel
the finish was much better.
I ground up a motor cycle crank pin and I'm over the moon with the results, just
what I was hoping for
Cheers, Nick
IMG_6055.jpg
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19th February 2014, 06:43 PM #5Mechanical Butcher
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- 920
The crankpin looks good. Did you case harden it?
Jordan
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19th February 2014, 10:02 PM #6
That finish looks nice, what sort of wheel is it? I'm not sure how surface grinding correlates to cyl grinding but i find 38A46J or K (38A=grit type, 46=grit size, J,K= hardness) wheels are good all rounders, they do ok on mild steel and can leave a real nice finish on hard steel. You may find a freshly dressed wheel has too much "bite" for finishing cuts, i find you need to do some rough grinding first and then the wheel will start to leave the best finish. Running a block of pine or some soft timber on the wheel after dressing is also a good idea, it will remove any loose bits of grit that can leave scratches.
Cheers,
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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