Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 16
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    59
    Posts
    289

    Default Blade for straight cut-please

    I have just got my first scroll saw, a Delta 40-540. I bought it for a project which has a few straight cuts about 80mm long and some small arcs about 12 mm long with a raius of about 300mm. The material is Silky Oak about 12mm thick. The size of the kerf is unimportant.

    Being new, I want to give myself the best possible chance of producing a nice job.

    From what I have read I figure I need to get large thick blades to help me get a straight cut. What I can't work out is what else is important for this job, ie. skip tooth, TPI etc.

    What specific blade should I get?

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Pakenham, outer Melb SE suburb, Vic
    Age
    55
    Posts
    4,158

    Default

    Gday Arch, I'd just ensure you are using quality scrolling blades, when I'm going I just use a no. 3 or no. 5 for everything. An 80mm straight cut wouldn't be worth putting a specific blade in for.

    The knack is just learning to compensate enough for the blade's tendency to "steer" one way, this is quickly grasped once you practice a bit.

    I have the same saw as you, and sourced my blades from mikesworkshop.com a fair while ago. The same blades I think are available through Harris Traders in Horsham, Vic or through Neil Schultz in Adelaide. Other members should have contact details for them, or an archive search should yield fruit.


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    64
    Posts
    13,374

    Default

    I'm a fan of spiral cut blades. They take more practice to become used to at first, but I think it's worth the effort.

    They'll cut as straight as you can feed the wood, without a tendency to wander. Unless you're in the habit of cutting from one position all the time, in which case one "side" of the blade will blunten more quickly than the rest, introducing a bias.

    But that's operator error rather than the blades' fault, IMHO...


    (Then again, I'm a lazy sod who quickly grew tired of changing blades for different jobs so settled on one type and has learned to stick with it. You'll notice I don't show my work here... )
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    25

    Smile Blade for Straight cut

    Hi

    I use Harris Traders, they are fast, efficient and get the blades to you in the matter of about 3-4 days. You don't have to prepay them. When you get your blades, (backed on cardboard so no bending), you pay the invoice straight into a National Australia Bank Account.

    Their details are as follows:


    Helen Harris
    Harris Traders
    PO Box 1065
    Horsham Vic 3402
    Ph: 03 5382 6224
    Email: [email protected]

    Helen and Owen are great to deal with too.

    The blades are $4.50 per dozen and 12 dozen for $45.00 + postage (very little expense). This is what I paid only a matter of a couple of months ago.

    Everyone I know uses them and has no complaints.

    Good luck with your scrolling and don't be afraid to ask any questions as we are all happy to help with the answers. No questions are silly, we have all asked them ourselves.

    Cheers for now and good luck.

    JAx
    Oh! The Saw Dust!

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Arch Stanton View Post
    I have just got my first scroll saw, a Delta 40-540. I bought it for a project which has a few straight cuts about 80mm long and some small arcs about 12 mm long with a raius of about 300mm. The material is Silky Oak about 12mm thick. The size of the kerf is unimportant.

    Being new, I want to give myself the best possible chance of producing a nice job.

    Arch, I have very special blades for this particulor job. I have importered them from Korea and I am happy to share them with you. I live in Chadstone and if you still need them , just let me know and you can pick them up after 6pm.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    59
    Posts
    289

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AnatoliSirota View Post
    Arch, I have very special blades for this particulor job. I have importered them from Korea and I am happy to share them with you. I live in Chadstone and if you still need them , just let me know and you can pick them up after 6pm.

    Anatoli,

    thanks for the kind offer. What sort of blades are they and what makes them special?

    Brian

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Arch Stanton View Post
    Anatoli,

    thanks for the kind offer. What sort of blades are they and what makes them special?

    Brian
    Those blades are indeed very special. I ordered them from Korea a few years ago to use in the coping saws. But as it turned out, they are also good for the straight cuts and thick materials. They are made from a very hard steel, so they even cut nails and metal up to 2 mm thick. They are pinned and a bit longer then normal pinless bladed. So I simple cut them back with pliers to the right size and install into my Delta scroll saw, if I want to cut quite thick plywood.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1,139

    Default

    I agree 100% with Jax.... Harris Traders is the way to go for blades.
    I've just received another shipment - haven't had the chance to try them out yet.... they are flying dutchman ultra.... can't wait... need to get off here...... lol

    As for the silky oak... I've cut heaps of that with a blad called Modified Geometry #5 and also #7
    They take a lot of abuse, don't break easy and I have no problem cutting straight... they have reverse teeth and leave a nice smooth edge.


    Juvy
    Woodcrafters Haven
    Wodonga - Supplies for Turners and Woodcrafters
    Mobile 0407261703


  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    59
    Posts
    289

    Default

    Keju,

    you are making it harder not easier .

    Well I've worked out one thing there is definitely no one particular right blade for this job. I think I will get a selection of blades and spend a bit of time practising and learning how to use the saw.

    Thanks for the advice guys.

    Anatoli, thanks for the offer to share your special blades. I'll take a rain check at this stage.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1,139

    Default

    lol that wasn't harder.... I gave you just TWO choices lol
    But..... just to add to the fun.... I just tried out a brandnew blade.......
    FD ( flying dutchman) ultra reverse...... had read about it on a US forum - send Harris Traders an e-mail and I have a selection in my hot little ( not so little really lol) hands. Couldn't just buy 1.... had to get one of each size!

    I used the #3 and it's really easy to stay on the line with this one! So this #3 feels more like a #5 of the modified geometry ( Pegasus)

    Juvy
    Woodcrafters Haven
    Wodonga - Supplies for Turners and Woodcrafters
    Mobile 0407261703


  12. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    59
    Posts
    289

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by keju View Post
    I gave you just TWO choices lol
    Yes, but you couldn't stop at 2.

    I had just fired off an email to Harris Traders. I'll give 'em a call in the morning and check out the Ultra Reverse.

    I can see an order for $500 worth of blades coming up for one small job.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1,139

    Default

    awwwwww....... but...... one can never have too many blades?
    Just make sure you keep them in a container.. if you're slow using them they can rust.
    If you bought a bunch of blades there ought to be one that you can use for the job. Might just be a matter of a bit more practise.

    Juvy
    Woodcrafters Haven
    Wodonga - Supplies for Turners and Woodcrafters
    Mobile 0407261703


  14. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    25

    Wink Blade for Straight cut

    Hi Keju and others

    I found a good way to store blades, get yourself some cheap toothbrush holders (only tooth brush not the combination toothpaste holder) and keep your blades in them. With each type of blade, it has it's own separate brush holder. It keeps them in their own sleeves and away from the air. All you have to is store them laying down or standing up. Such easy storage!!!

    Hope this helps.

    Jax
    Oh! The Saw Dust!

  15. #14
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1,139

    Default

    Ken has made me the perfect blade holder when I first started out... have no problem with rust at all.
    Toothbrush holders... don't they have air holes in the ends?
    They are awfully wide too.... you must put more then one size blade into those?
    I have about 20 different blade sizes, so don't think that would work for me.

    Juvy
    Woodcrafters Haven
    Wodonga - Supplies for Turners and Woodcrafters
    Mobile 0407261703


  16. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    25

    Default Blade for Straight cut

    Hi Keju

    I glued the holes up and I find them perfect to store my blades. I have seen others in the books on a lazy susan style, but nowhere to put it at the moment.

    Jax
    Oh! The Saw Dust!

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. New top for MK3 - I can cut straight now!
    By missionaryman in forum TRITON / GMC
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 29th January 2008, 04:48 PM
  2. How straight is your straight edge?
    By echnidna in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 5th November 2005, 10:12 AM
  3. won't rip straight
    By Arthur in forum BANDSAWS
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 3rd September 2005, 03:50 PM
  4. 3m straight edge - or how straight can one get angle iron
    By burn in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 16th February 2004, 07:06 AM
  5. Straight 'a's
    By John Saxton in forum WOODIES JOKES
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 5th April 2001, 10:05 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •