Thread: Glue for segmented turning

I do a lot of laminating and use pretty much all the time, selleys tradesmans choice. It doesn't need mixing, sets quickly, sands well and sets fairly hard. It doesn't leave tiny ridges at the glue line like standard aquadhere.
Jim

I've only made a few basic segmented bowls.I used weldbond glue,and at the time,I was on another forum,and I was told it was a good glue to use as it allows movement in the different species of wood,and different grain directions.
Actually,a few days ago,I got a parcel of stuff I had in a gallery in St Pierre,,French islands off Newfoundland,and there was one of my segmented bowls in it that didn't sell,and it's just like when I made it.
I have another on my mantel,and it's been there for a few years,and it's fine too,so,I will use weldbond glue again,hopefully over the winter I'll make another one,,but it's good to get some more replies from others who'ld really know.I've only made 2-3 segmented bowls,and basic ones at that.
Best of luck,Steve

Any PVA (white woodworking glue) will do the job. Make sure it's been stored correctly though (freezing temperatures are not a good idea).

Some of the Titebond glues (HPVA) are water resistant and well worth considering.

You can go with a stronger glue like an epoxy resin but it's not really needed.

Cheers


Dave

I agree with the above, a good PVA will do the job.

Being in a hurry, I have also used CA and stuff called Mitre-Fix. Both worked well initially and I was able to turn and finish the bowls, but both have subsequently started to fail on the vertical joints as the timber moves.

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but both have subsequently started to fail on the vertical joints as the timber moves.

grrrh! I know what you mean.
I use the water proof PVA [ bunnies ] and to date its been holding fine. One bowl made in '05 is still doing fine

I have used Weldbond for many different applications over many years, including gluing the tubes into my pen blanks, and have never had any problems - it really is a very versatile and reliable adhesive, and will adhere to a great many other substances than wood.

I have also used the Titebond range for woodworking, and found them eminently satisfactory - Titebond III is particularly good for any work that will be exposed to moisture (eg chopping boards).

I won't use CA for anything other than minor crack stabilization, or stabilizing of "punky" pen blanks, and I find that epoxy glues have very restricted application.

There was a recent survey/test done of common woodworking glues by Fine Woodworking magazine, with very interesting results - the various forms of PVA came out well on top, with the "high-tech" epoxy types lagging well behind.

I have done numerous seg bowls.

I use the aliphatic "yellow" pva glue, and have never had problems except where the bowl design has not taken expansion into account.

Normal white pva is not a good idea, as it tends to stay 'rubbery', and with time tends to give raised glue lines. It also softens during sanding, and pick up sanding dust, making glue lines more visible.

regards

I like this bonding (glue!)

I have always used carpenters glue and I have pieces I made 7 years ago and they are OK.

Mike

Thanks everyone
I think I've got the idea

MT
what do you call carpenters glue?

cheers