Glue suggestions for dowelled joints

**gnu52** · 11th February 2005, 09:56 PM

Hello all,

I have to repair some aged office chairs, hav'nt seen them but believe they are solid maple and silky oak, with the traditional dowelled joints and a long history of heavy use. They are probably fairly loose and will require a general rebuild.

I would appreciate suggestions as to the best glue for the job, regardless of cost or difficulty cause i'm sure these chairs will spend some of their time on their back legs only.
Hope someone can help, Thanks, Bill

**beejay1** · 11th February 2005, 10:15 PM

Veritas chair doctor is ok if the joints arent too loose.

beejay1

http://community.webshots.com/user/eunos9

**echnidna** · 11th February 2005, 10:18 PM

Hide glue !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

**NewLou** · 11th February 2005, 10:58 PM

Garret and wade 220 GF Glue for me...................................If I can I also like to get a japanese pull saw and and make a 1-2 centremetre cut in the stretcher leg arm or what ever part of the chair I'm reparing from wear and tear then tap in a wedge of hardwood. I then tap this back into what ever kind of joinery hole the part goes into to complete the restoration of the chair.

Although I have not used this method a great deal of times .................so far it has worked really well for me on each occasion I have used it.................Hope it Helps!

Regards Lou

**craigb** · 11th February 2005, 11:02 PM

What Bob Thomas said.

After all, they were probably put together with hide glue in the first place.

**Sturdee** · 11th February 2005, 11:46 PM

Originally Posted by craigb

What Bob Thomas said.

After all, they were probably put together with hide glue in the first place.

If they were originally glued with hide glue than you don't have to clean the joints as much as with other glues as hide glue is the only glue that will bond onto the old glue.

Peter.

**gnu52** · 12th February 2005, 07:23 AM

Thanks to you all for your comments.

Lou, The wedge idea sounds like it is a good idea.
Bob et al, I have never used hide glue. Do you mean the old two pots on the stove process I saw done about 40 years ago?
If so where do you source the materials.
Please excuse my ignorance but carpenters are not cabinet makers and I have done very little furniture repair. ( other than with maxbond and a screw gun) Again, thanks to all, Bill

**echnidna** · 12th February 2005, 08:15 AM

Neil (Ubeaut) sells hide glue.
If stuck for supplies Gelatine from the supermarket will do. (Its the same thing but being a food substance its made to health standards)

**Thom** · 12th February 2005, 03:50 PM

Have you used Gorilla Glue before? It is an exellent product and creates an incredable bond even if you have a few small gaps. Do a google search for availability and here is a picture of the bottle.

**snappperhead** · 12th February 2005, 06:34 PM

titebond

**Optimark** · 12th February 2005, 10:41 PM

Thom, that Gorilla Glue sounds interesting. I've never heard of it in this country, I could be wrong though.

I Googled it and came up with some fascinating information, it appears to be virtually perfect, are there any downsides that you know of?

ick.

**journeyman Mick** · 12th February 2005, 11:00 PM

Originally Posted by Thom

Have you used Gorilla Glue before?...........

No, but then I've never had to fix a broken gorilla

Seriously though, I believe it's a foaming type polyurethane adhesive. There's a few of these available from other manufacturers here, AV Syntec do two variations. They have excellent gap filling abilities but as the glue keeps expanding as it sets you need to plan ahead to avoid lots of tedious clean up afterwards.

Mick

**Thom** · 13th February 2005, 09:46 AM

Originally Posted by journeyman Mick

No, but then I've never had to fix a broken gorilla

Seriously though, I believe it's a foaming type polyurethane adhesive. There's a few of these available from other manufacturers here, AV Syntec do two variations. They have excellent gap filling abilities but as the glue keeps expanding as it sets you need to plan ahead to avoid lots of tedious clean up afterwards.

Mick

Mick, you are absolutly right. I have used paste wax and applied it to the areas that I expect the glue to ooze out on and after it sets up it will usually pop right out or peal off. I use a small disposable paint glue brush to apply the paste wax.

**Thom** · 13th February 2005, 09:53 AM

Originally Posted by Optimark

Thom, that Gorilla Glue sounds interesting. I've never heard of it in this country, I could be wrong though.

I Googled it and came up with some fascinating information, it appears to be virtually perfect, are there any downsides that you know of?

ick.

Optimark, I have not had any bad experiences with this glue. Except as Jorneyman Mick pointed out you really need to plan for the clean up. I have used it for repairing chairs and laying up venners (small pieces) and I have also used it in areas that I need a water proof glue. It is expensive though, so I use it for special applications only. You really can't beat the plain old wood glue for most woodworking applications.

**outback** · 13th February 2005, 01:21 PM

After doing a bit of research in the glue area lately I reckon hide glue is the go. If the chairs were made using it you'll have more trouble than speed Gordon with other glues, but as already pointed out, heaps less with hide glue.
This is the two pots stuff from 40 years ago. Ask Neil nicely and I'm sure he'll be happy to send some to you.

Which reminds me, one of the reasons for my initial research was an old stool I have been told to repair. Must get some glue to do it.

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