Thread: Removal of paraffin to apply hotmelt glue?

Why do you need a sacrifice block on base? Wouldn't it be easier to put it on a screw chuck and turn the base off first. If you must fit a sacrifice block you will need to get it onto a flat surface that is free of paraffin, probably plane it. Heating with a torch won't do it.

There's a loose(ish) knot smack bang in the middle of the top face, probably why the blank didn't sell. I see no problems turning it out (famous last words?) but I wouldn't trust a screw-mount through it. I may try a forstner bit and pin-jaws though, or more likely fix a faceplate to the top if I can avoid the future rim and turn a mortise in the base that way.

Thanks for the info... I didn't really want to find out by experimenting with UFOs.

You may find that if the blank has been waxed on all sides that it may well be green.
I dont know why they insist on doing it this way as you only need to seal the end grain.

This is a common practice with timber from Tassy.

I use faceplates a lot. I have a nice Talon scroll chuck,
but I learned faceplate turning when i was a wee bodger and dinosaurs still ruled the earth. I feel more at ease using that method.
You can teach an old dog new tricks but I'm a slow learner.
Seems like with a wasteblock you can get a deeper vessel
because theres not a foot or tenon at the base.
A lot of my bowl blanks are dipped in wax.
Some completely and some only the end grain.
I wonder if the totally dipped ones are woods that
are more prone to movement?
Skew, at first I tried scraping them with a razor scraper...
much too time consuming. I tried wirebrushing by hand and it works. Now I use a round wire brush chucked in the drill press.
Im sure you could use a handheld drill motor or for that matter a wire brush snugged into a jacobs chuck on the headstock. It takes the wax off rapidly and roughs up the wood a little making for a better glue bond.