Thread: Whats the best glue to use to avoid creep ?

Try using a brad. Any glue will work then.

Cheers
Terry

Originally Posted by Nihilist37

Try using a brad. Any glue will work then.

does that mean? who's brad?


tripper, are you edge gluing or laminating faces?

Originally Posted by martrix

does that mean? who's brad?


tripper, are you edge gluing or laminating faces?

ta mate.

edging gluing chair seat blanks. 50mm thick pine or amoora. ie. gluing together boards 200x50 to get 400x50.

got a little creep in the last seat I did, and its bothering me a bit. trying to improve things a bit. I used tightbond. I did my best to line up the rays. It was pretty straight clear 1 stuff. but it still appeared.

I'm told just go epoxy, but just from what I visualise, since it sets like glass, and since wood likes to move, somethings got to give.

spose there's no perfect glue.

If I was to laminate faces, (say for example 200x25 stock to get 200x50), would you use a different glue ?

Originally Posted by apricotripper

ta mate.

edging gluing chair seat blanks. 50mm thick pine or amoora. ie. gluing together boards 200x50 to get 400x50.

got a little creep in the last seat I did, and its bothering me a bit. trying to improve things a bit. I used tightbond. I did my best to line up the rays. It was pretty straight clear 1 stuff. but it still appeared.

I'm told just go epoxy, but just from what I visualise, since it sets like glass, and since wood likes to move, somethings got to give.

spose there's no perfect glue.

If I was to laminate faces, (say for example 200x25 stock to get 200x50), would you use a different glue ?

Well I would go with AV180. I have used it soley on all timbers (except for teak, too oily) as well as chipboard and MDF. Sure you can get creep, but it will never de-laminate. Epoxy is strong but becomes brittle with no flex. Timber moves, we need a little give. I used a urea formaldehyde resin which was suposed to be super strong. The timbers I laminated didnt last a year and de-laminated. That was the first time I had something fail when I tried a different glue other than the AV180.

For what youre doing the AV180 while be fine with the Amoora, ditch the pine.

http://www.bostik.com.au/technical_d...DF/AVS_180.pdf

When edge-gluing radiata boards, I've occasionally used the "few grains of sand" trick. It seems to work.

But I've never tried it with harder woods, nor for any jobs I've deemed important.

Originally Posted by apricotripper

I've got epoxy, tightbond 2.....hide glue.

I'm thinking to use epoxy to glue up pine boards.

any idea how well does amoora edge glue ?

any thoughts.

thanks

Bit of an over kill for pine but what about Sellys 308 http://www.selleys.com.au/Selleys-30...e/default.aspx
or one I used a lot in our Pine Furniture factory was AV251.
Now-a-days I reckon you can't beat hide glue. Easy to use, strong, sands well can be reworked if needed and the dog loves the stuff.


Cheers

Steve

thanks. good stuff.

Whats the few grains of sand trick again Skew ?

Originally Posted by martrix

For what youre doing the AV180 while be fine with the Amoora, ditch the pine.

I'm a bit confused on this though. In the product description it says its good with pine. Has amoora glued up better for you in the past ?

thanks

Jake

Originally Posted by apricotripper

thanks. good stuff.

Whats the few grains of sand trick again Skew ?



I'm a bit confused on this though. In the product description it says its good with pine. Has amoora glued up better for you in the past ?

thanks

Jake

the few grains of sand trick is the equivalent of a brad AFAIK.

in two opposite corners of your job drive a small tack nail into one board and cut off and sharpen the top so that about 3 or 4mm protrudes.
get your other board and dryfit it so its in the right position then squeeze the twoboard together so that the protruding nail end goes into the other board.
put your glue on, spread it, put your other board on top. line up the nail holes an clamp. the nails stop the wood from creeping.
this is a cheap verion of a brad.


the grains of sand is similar. before gluing it up throw a few grains of sand in between the boards and this provides a little frickting that stops the board from creeping.

Originally Posted by Nihilist37

the few grains of sand trick is the equivalent of a brad AFAIK.

in two opposite corners of your job drive a small tack nail into one board and cut off and sharpen the top so that about 3 or 4mm protrudes.
get your other board and dryfit it so its in the right position then squeeze the twoboard together so that the protruding nail end goes into the other board.
put your glue on, spread it, put your other board on top. line up the nail holes an clamp. the nails stop the wood from creeping.
this is a cheap verion of a brad.


the grains of sand is similar. before gluing it up throw a few grains of sand in between the boards and this provides a little frickting that stops the board from creeping.

I think I get it. I don't know how it applys to chair seats. wouldn't the nail or sand only stop slip ?..I mean, its not going to stop movement in the same way the nails went in, which I thought is where the most movement goes on...

Jake

I assume you are concerned about the boards slipping along the joint or up and down across the joint (actually more the latter than the former as I imagine that the back spindles should keep the seat relatively stable from that movement).

Stabilishing joints is the one thing that I reckon dowels or biscuits are good for. I would use dowels and hide glue - then you can take it all apart in the future if you need to.

Jake,
I'd use AV 270 (cross linking PVA) and a few biscuits. The AV270 is a very strong glue, low to no creep and water resistant and the biscuits will give you peace of mind that there will be absolutely no creep.

Mick

I assume you are concerned about the boards slipping along the joint or up and down across the joint

"Creep" is when the glue expands leaving a raised line at the joint. Grains of sand, brads or biscuits aren't going to stop that if this is what you're talking about.

I'd either use hide glue or one of the synthetics recommended above. Or you could look into Urea Formaldehyde.

From this discussion, the concept of "creep" appears to cover both wood moving either side of the glue joint and glue coming out of the joint.