Thread: I don't understand this at all....

Originally Posted by TORB

All the bits have been put through the thicknesser and have had quite a bit shaved off, so they should be flat. I have checked and the fence is at 90 degrees to the table, so what else can be causing it?

Cheers
Ric

Putting the boards through the thicknesser means that they are the same thickness but not necessarily flat as it will not eliminate any bows in the timber.

To remove that you first need to use a jointer to get one side flat and then thickness to the flat side.

Check to see if there is a bow in the planks.


Peter.

Originally Posted by Sturdee

Check to see if there is a bow in the planks.
Peter.

They have been jointed too.

Only one of the planks has a slight bow, but runs the length, not the thickness.

The boards appear to be reasonably flat prior to being routered.

Did you use featherboards to bold the boards firmly to the table surface and fence?

Did you arrange additional infeed/outfeed supports either side of the table to support the overhanging boards?

Is the table and insert truly flat, or does it have a bow or a slightly raised or dropped insert?

Have you measured the thickness of the blanks at several points along thier length to ensure that there is minimal variation along each piece and between mating pieces?Snipe effects could throw out the entire setup procedure for the bit.

All of these things can make a big difference to the success or failure of any profile routing task, and the bit you are using would double up the appearance of any error, as the error in the flipped edge would be in the opposite direction to that on the normal edge.

Hi Rick,
I had this happen to me with v joints. I found that I was letting the center of the board ride up , once I fitted a finger board to each side of the bit it solved my problem.

Regards

Harold

Thanks for the comments and suggestions.

I did you a feather board on the intake side but not the out fence. However, I don't think that is the problem. It looks like it is being caused by a T track I put on the intake side which has bowed up a bit on one side. Lots'a four letter words!

I have never been really happy with my first attempt at making a router table. It cost me stuff all as I had almost all I needed and recycled timber, so now I know what to make for my next project.

May also pay to check there is no movement in the router bearing or router mount to table. Particularly flex in the insert.

Originally Posted by rustynail

May also pay to check there is no movement in the router bearing or router mount to table. Particularly flex in the insert.

I agree - using same bit on a Triton router table I had the same problem - turned out to be the flex on the pressed metal top of the table. I have upgraded to a spindle moulder with cast iron table so problem is now gone

Hey Torb,
This is just my opinion, but if you are using this glue joint bit to make an end grain chopping block or similar, I think you are prolly making work for yourself.

An edge to edge grain glue joint is a very strong joint anyway & then after it is cut & re-glued at the face, you will have no shortage of glue surface area.

As I said, JMO.

Steve

Originally Posted by Ticky

Hey Torb,
This is just my opinion, but if you are using this glue joint bit to make an end grain chopping block or similar, I think you are prolly making work for yourself.

Thanks Steve, but I am just using it for the two shelves.

The router table is now 'fixed' so I will have a try on some scrap timber to ensure all is well before hitting the good stuff again.

Cheers
Ric

Given the length of the boards using a router table will be a never ending battle. If the boards were short lenghts it may work better.

In my opinion you are better off doing it freehand as the small base of the router can more easily follow the timber as opposed to what you doing in trying/forcing the timber to follow the large flat bed of a table.

This link https://www.woodworkforums.com/f187/m...atever-129285/ will show (me) doing it freehand.

As you will be aware there is a lot of trial and error in getting the setting just right so that the boards finish flush. I think its a fantastic joint. Goodluck