Thread: New Router Plate (another stoopid question)

Countersink should be fine. My router is secured through the holes that usually hold the plastic base onto the aluminium router base. I had to buy some longer screws to go through the thickness of the router plate.

Originally Posted by TORB

Hi Good Peoples,

I have just got a new Aluminium Router Plate and need to drill the holes to anchor my router.

Now for the stupid question. What's the best way to go about this, specifically to ensure the heads of the bolts are below the Router Plate and don't catch. Also, what are the best bolt/screw heads for this job? With the limited thickness of the plate, one can't countersink a long way to conceal the head.

Cheers
Ric

Hi Ric

Here's an extract from our Aluminium & Phenolic Plate Instructions.

Attaching the router.
The existing tapped holes in the Aluminium or Phenolic Plate are for the starter pin, so don’t use them for fixing the router. Some plates are pre-drilled to suit the Triton Routers, if using this router ignore steps a.i to vi. below,

a. To fit the router.
i. Remove its sub-base (usually thin plastic screwed to metal base).
ii. Check that the router casting is flat, misuse or poor manufacturing can leave the router base ‘warped’
iii. Use the sub-base as a template by double-sided taping it to the underside of the plate, ensuring that it is oriented in such a way that the router handles etc. are able to pass through the opening in the table. Also ensure that it is centered on the opening, this is important if using template guides.
iv. Drill fixing holes with a normal twist drill the same size as the holes in the sub-base.
v. Flip the plate and countersink the holes as per the sub-base, if the fixing screws are not long enough replace with longer screws. (Your local bolt shop usually has a size and thread to suit)
vi. Remove sub-base and tape.
vii. Attach router, ensuring that the handles are oriented to fit through the opening. The screws should be hand tight, but not over tightened, remember the router base is usually only alloy.

I hope this helps.

Regards

Grahame

Thanks guys,very helpful.

Cheers
Ric

I've used 200mmx200x6mm mild steel plate for my makita 1/2" router (the big boy)
Drilled three holes through it and makita's base and counterunk them.. I've used 40mm long by 1/4" phillips head screws... I'be countersunk plate so screws are a bit indent.. the idea is to fill the gap with soldering tin which can be quite easily sanded leaving flat surface... (will try that in a few weekends time..) hopefully soldering tin will stick to the screws and mild steel licely...

Originally Posted by Prle77

I I'be countersunk plate so screws are a bit indent.. the idea is to fill the gap with soldering tin which can be quite easily sanded leaving flat surface... (will try that in a few weekends time..)

The holes in the plate with the countersunk screws were a problem with my old plate. Sometimes wood would catch on the lip of the hole as it went over it. Thats what I am trying to avoid this time.

Originally Posted by TORB

The holes in the plate with the countersunk screws were a problem with my old plate. Sometimes wood would catch on the lip of the hole as it went over it. Thats what I am trying to avoid this time.

Plastibond or similar would fill and level the holes - easier to do than solder and easier to sand level or remove at a later time.

Just a thought.

Thanks. Its now done with solder. It was a bit of work but worth it. Completely flat.

Glad I could help... solder is great thing...
hard enough so timber won't easily damage it.. sticks well to metal.. and you can sand it off if necessary...
You can also try lead.. (low melting point) but it doesn't stick well and is a bit too soft...
aditionally have to worry about toxic fumes when melting lead