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Thread: Router table fence
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29th March 2007, 03:06 PM #1Senior Member
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Router table fence
Hi all,
I've been reading all the posts about making router tables in preparation for the big step of making my own. I've got most of my details sorted out but wondered why so many router tables come with a mitre slot and then a fence that has 2 position sets -- seems to me a lot of effort goes into making the fence parallel with the mitre slot when I can't think of situations you would need a mitre slot with a router. My idea is to fix one end of the fence with a bolt that allows pivoting and have a single position set at the other end of the fence - figure it will make minor adjustments easier (e.g. move the fence position 1mm and the fence is .5mm closer to the router bit's edge). Am I missing something?? (be nice, this is my first post!).
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29th March 2007, 03:30 PM #2
I thought the idea of the mitre slot is for when you are not using the fence.
Say for cutting tenons - set a half inch straight bit in the router and adjust to the depth of tenon, put timber against mitre gauge and run past cutter?
Your idea is fine IMO
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29th March 2007, 03:44 PM #3
I'm with Dazzler, am about 3/4 of the way finished with my router table and it will have a mitre track for exactly that reason. Will be making rail and style panels (cope & style for you Seppos) and need the mitre track for those.
Then again if you can't think of a good reason to have a mitre track, leave it out, you can always add one later.
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29th March 2007, 03:59 PM #4
Basically a miter track allows you to cut end grain and keep the work piece perpendicular to the bit. That is more difficult with just a fence.
Using a fence and the miter gauge, with the fence parallel to the track, the depth of cut can be more carefully controlled.
However, with just a fence you can often clamp or hold the piece against a longer sacrificial support (bit of scrap) and achieve good results without a miter gauge.
Tex
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29th March 2007, 09:36 PM #5
With or without the miter gauge, a sacrificial backup is a good idea for end grain cuts. Tearout goes in the scrap instead of the work.
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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29th March 2007, 10:13 PM #6
G'day Chumley,
I also like the pivoting fence idea.......Doug Stowe (box maker) uses this method extensively, as it saves squaring the fence.
However, I reckon you also need mitre slots (running parallel to the fence) for box joint jigs/tenon cutting. and lots of other things.
My new router table will incorporate mitre slots for jigs and a pivoting fence.Last edited by watson; 29th March 2007 at 10:14 PM. Reason: addition
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29th March 2007, 10:19 PM #7
Another reason for having a mitre track made so that it can be used with t-bolts is for attaching feather boards for pushing stock against the fence if you are making mouldings etc
Have a nice day - Cheers
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1st April 2007, 12:02 AM #8Member
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Sled instead of a mitre track
Hi Guys,
I did not include a mitre track into the top of my router table because I wanted a totally flat and uninterupted surface. Could see myself getting things caught in there. I have cut many tennons and made many doors on my table but use a sled instead of the mitre guage. The sled has a fence on the bottom that runs against the front of my table and is very stable.
Cheers,
Buz.
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1st April 2007, 12:26 AM #9
Things shouldnt get caught in a mitre track its ment to be recessed below the surface slightly, would you have a table saw with no mitre tracks?
If you worried about them you can always make up some blanks to fill them when not in use... best of both eh!
To keep a fence square you can install 2 Ttrack's exactly 90° to the mitre track then under the fence you have runners that run in the Ttrack. The Ttrack doesnt need to butt up to the mitre track, only needs just enough hold the fence and allow range for adjustment.....................................................................
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1st April 2007, 12:42 AM #10
Actually, neither my saw or router table have mitre slots because they both have sliding tables . My saw because it's a full size sliding table panel saw, my router table because I made it so. Worth looking at and thinking about.
Mick"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
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1st April 2007, 02:41 AM #11
Errr yep, your's technically isnt a table saw its a full blown panel saw and not many would have a power feed on a router table!(nice on both counts!)
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1st April 2007, 09:27 AM #12
The Dad and Dave duo from the woodworkingchannel.com use a sled of sorts. They put a guide bush on the router, then have a type of sled, where there a sheet of phenolic with a slot cut the width of the bush. Attached to the phenolic is a backing piece to which they have attached a couple of toggle clamps to hold the workpiece.
Seems simple as all get out, No trouble with adjusting a fence if it gets out of whack with the mitre track. You just need to ensure your backing piece is dead square to the slot.Boring signature time again!
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