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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Ottawa
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    2

    Default routing crosswise on a long board

    Hey all,
    I'm looking to route rabbets crosswise on a board, as shown in this picture. I realize the ends will be circular, which is OK. The problem I'm anticipating it keeping the router straight. I don't have a router table available (nor a tablesaw with a dado blade). Any ideas?
    -Pptpic.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Deception Bay Qld
    Posts
    213

    Default

    Have a look on YouTube or Google -Router/ Dado Jigs

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
    Age
    54
    Posts
    3,457

    Default

    Easy, clamp a straight edge to the timber that you can run the router along and stop the cut by eye.

    There are plenty of jigs you can make; look up dado/trenching/grooving jigs online. We have a forum member called "Template Tom" who will no doubt soon reply to your query with links to You-Tube; he appears to have hundreds of instructional videos that he often provides links to; or you could just look him up.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Perth Western Australia
    Age
    90
    Posts
    784

    Default

    Thanks Chief But I do not have a video of the process on you tube but I have a photo (Drawing) of what I do to produce the dados All that is required is to clamp the material in place This is my smaller version suitable for narrow boards. There is a larger version capable of routing 400mm wide boards
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Learn new Routing skills with the use of the template guides

    Log on to You Tube for a collection of videos 'Routing with Tom O'Donnell'

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,870

    Default

    There is a very simple jig I use in this article. It is exactly what you want:

    http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...DadoPlane.html

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Ottawa
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Thanks all. Looks like the solution was very simple, indeed! I'm a little embarrassed I had to ask...

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    2,947

    Default

    An oldie [now] but still used when necessary. It allows for perfectly parallel or tapered trenches.

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f44/ugly-but-works-34437/

    Can use the jig with the 2 rails if you need to go wider than the bit size you have or can be used as a single rail as in pix 3 of the first post in the link below.

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f40/mu...pboard-106358/

    Hope it helps and welcome to the forum.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    5,193

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pistonengine View Post
    Thanks all. Looks like the solution was very simple, indeed! I'm a little embarrassed I had to ask...

    No way, pistonengine. The only silly question is the one that you did not ask.

    That jig as suggested by Tom and Derek is incredibly versatile and worth building well. It will be used frequently. If the router fits snugly between the guide rails - moves freely but no "wobble" - then you will get a really good output.

    I have also used it with a dovetail bit in the router to cut sliding dovetails for extensive walls of bookcases.

    Fair Winds

    Graeme

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Perth Western Australia
    Age
    90
    Posts
    784

    Default

    I should also have added that I use a 40mm template guide to guide the router cutter ans as Graeme said dovetails can also be cut
    Learn new Routing skills with the use of the template guides

    Log on to You Tube for a collection of videos 'Routing with Tom O'Donnell'

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