Thread: Shop Vac to Router

it'll possibly blow the electronics in the vac.

Hi Stompa

My two bobs worth:

The vac will most likely have a relay in it (less likely solid state devices) which controls the the power to the outlet. The rating given (2000W) is the maximum load that can be connected which is based on the rating of the relay contacts and/or the wiring (less likely). This equates to about 8 amps at 240v. In your case the Triton router is rated higher than this (at 2400W) and in theory should not be connected. The outcome is that if the relay contacts are insufficiently rated then they are likely to burn out/arc/not provide the power to the router. However, if you were able to open the vac (bearing in mind warranty/your experience/skills etc then you may be able to discover if there is a rating on the relay. I think it most likely that it could have a 10 amp rated relay (very common rating) which would then mean that it could handle the 2400W router. The manufacturer may just be allowing for the fact that some folk will plug things in that are going to draw a greater current and cover themselves by under-rating the capacity.

The other factors that can come in to this situation is the startup load of the device (in your case soft start?), the load when free running versus the load when routing (at variable speed).

Comments and corrections welcome

Isn't the watts rating the power of the motors, there should be no problem hooking your vac up to your router

Are you planning on powering you router into your vac or just collect the dust?
Mike

I would just plug it and see.. but why would you do that just have them in different power points or a standard double way adapter
les

Maybe the 'soft start' of the Triton router might overcome any sudden power surge required on start up as would be the case with many of those cheapies out there ???

3. Powerful 3¼ hp motor with soft start

I know crap all about electronics. The fact that this subject was bought up surprised me, but could I give a serious answer that I knew was right, no way.

Me, Ignorance is bliss. I would just plug it in and not no any better.

My way of thinking is. I have a 1300 watt Shop Vac and a 2000 watt thicknesser. The majority of then 2000 watt thicknesser's power is diverted to the actual planing and the pull through of the material.

I cannot see where their is a compatibility problem but I await with interest some further contents.

Hi Stompa,
A quick question, is the plug on the vac a normal 10A plug or a 15Amp plug (bigger earth pin).
You should be ok to plug the router in to the vac outlet. It is probably protected with it's own circuit breaker so if the combined load is too high it will cut the supply to the outlet. Check for a reset button or switch mounted on the vac.
The worst that will happen is if there is no separate protection for the built in outlet (i'm assuming thats what you mean ) then the circuit breaker at the house board will trip (or the fuse will blow) if the combined load of the vac and router are too high.

I had a look at the H&F website to see was was on offer. I found 1 wet and dry (V500) rated at 1400W and fitted with an outlet for auto switching, and another (V501) rated at 2000W listed in the new products section. This model is claimed to be twin motor, but does not specifically mention a power outlet.

In AU, we normally have 16A fuses or breakers (sometimes 20A breakers on newer installations) for general purpose power outlet circuits. Normal power point rated capacity is 10A per outlet, or 15A with a dedicated outlet, but the total available to multiple outlets on a circuit is limited by the fuse or breaker.

To operate a 2400W router and a 1400W vac from a single outlet and circuit typically would generate a total loading of 3800W (about 16A for a resistive load). Allowing for total load being inductive (motors) and having a power factor of 0.8, the actual current flowing through fuses/breakers could be in the region of 20A.

<OThis is technically overloading even a 15A outlet and would be likely to trip a 16A fuse/breaker fairly regularly. For this reason, I believe that the vac power outlet has probably been rated at 2000W nominal to keep the rated combined load within the 15A max allowed for dedicated GPO's.

The above current levels are for running equipment, but remember that using this configuration, you would be starting both the router and vac motors simultaneously, with an initial start current of up to 6 times those quoted above.

On the other hand, if the router in particular was lightly loaded at all times, its actual power consumption would be lower. It probably draws in the region of 500-600W running unloaded (i.e. bit not engaged in wood), and the draw then increases steadily as load is applied to the motor. The 2400W rating for the router actually relates to the power input for long term sustained operation, and could be limited by the capacity of the speed control system, the size and current capacity of the motor windings, or the ability to dissipate heat from the motor. I believe that the system may be practical provided that you do not load the router to near its rated capacity.

The practicality of operating the router with a significant derating is for you to decide, given that you purchased the unit for a given task and have no practical means of determining the actual load being applied to the outlet socket on the vac.

Others have mentioned the switching relay in the vac. This is irrelevant to the issue because it is switching the vac motor, not the router. I anticipate that the sensing circuitry to control the relay would cope with the additional current, but could not guarantee this.

In summary, I believe that the 2000W rating is applied to allow the the unit to comply with our 15A limit for portable (non hard wired) equipment, rather than because the unit would vapourise if a 2400W load was connected.

Great explanation MALAB thank you very much. I was going to buy a similar vac to hook up to my dewalt saw so it would start when I started the saw (too lazy to bend over every time I wanted to do a cut)but I didn't because I saw the different watt ratings.

Again, thanks for the explanation

Oooops! Pays to think a little more before puting fingers to the keys

Yes, malb you are right in your second to last para - I had come to the same conclusion after allowing the old grey cells a few more cicuits I realised I was thinking more along the lines of a router table switch than the vac current sensing circuit. Glad that has been sorted.