Thread: Triton TRA001 & shopmade Unisaw Router Table

Welcome to the forum, I'll kick this off, but I am sure there are quite a few cabinetsaw owners, including the TSC10HB fan club, that could give their ideas as well.

Hi all - very first thread here. I sent some questions to BigShed and he correctly requested I share my thoughts with everyone in case someone else has the same issues. I'm writing from the States; I found you guys after discovering the Triton TRA001 (which I just purchased along with the Woodpecker phenolic insert). I was going to go with the big Porter Cable (7539), but liked the reviews, look, and price of this router. I have some questions - please bear with me.

- I received the Router 2 days ago and the first thing I noticed after looking through the manual is that my router does not have a 'Plunge Mode Selector' (the knob set into the Handle Winder which locks/unlocks the Handle Winder). Instead it's just a plastic button that takes a good bit of force to push in. My question: is this an older model or is this newer than the 'Plunge Mode Selector' model shown in the manual?

Not sure how to answer that, my TRA001 has a circular knob inside the handle winder that needs to be oushed in and then twisted (1/4 turn from memory) so it locks in place. This can be tricky and might need a bit of perseverance, make sure you push it all the way in.

- I have a Delta Unisaw with an extension table that I'm going to use for a router table. I would like to replace the existing particle board (with laminate) top with an MDF top, but have heard some rumours about sag. If I double up 2 3/4" MDF boards, would that handle it?

That would work, you can also use some 32mm laminated benchtop material, that is what Used on my extension wing for my PM2000 clone.

- I'd like to build an enclosure under the router to minimize noise and allow for dust collection. Between this and the doubled MDF top, I'm a little concerned I won't be able to move the unisaw around in my humble basement shop. Does anyone else have a built in router enclosure on a Unisaw?

With that extra weight I would suggest a mobile base of some sort, again that is what I did with my PM2000 clone, see here.

- For dust collection, I'm putting together a cyclone system and plan on running 6" pvc to my unisaw and a split off for the router. I'm thinking I'll need a draw from the router fence, from inside the router table enclosure, and possibly a third from a dustport hose on the router itself. Any recommendations on how to configure this?

If you have a look at my router table you I have used a 100mm plumbing connector, 45 deg, no reason why you can't do the same with 150mm (6" to you).

For the connection to the Triton Router I put in a separate connector to hook up my ShopVac, as the smaller hose does not work so well with the bigger DC hose, you are looking for velocity rather than volume).

- where do I get just the hose to fit the dust collection port on the TRA001?

Mine came originally with my Triton Router table and other accessories. They are available direct from Triton, so perhaps in the first instance contact the place where you bought your Triton router.

- Was it wise to buy a triton? I'm not even sure who owns the company now. I got it for what I thought was a steal ($214 US) and am really impressed with the build. The only thing I can see a problem with so far is the above-mentioned button and the plunge is not as smooth as I expected; which I'm hoping will smooth out with time.

I think you bought the right router, particularly for use in a router table. The height adjust is second to none and the above table bit changing is a godsend.

- really dumb question for last. I'm going to build a router fence and have it mounted with knobs in 2 T-slots on the table. Looking at the working side of the unisaw I was thinking of having the fence parallel with the saw fence - that way I can run long pieces across both the extension table and the Unisaw table itself. Is this the right way to do it? I don't have any current plans for an Incra Jig but don't want to rule something like that out in the future.

No such thing as a dumb question. Yes I think that is right way to do it, also make sure you have a mitre slot in the router table, I was using mine only yesterday with the Incra setup making a series of parallel grooves with a 3/4" cove bit and shifting the fence 13/16" every time, having the support of a mitre gauge for this when the cut gets further away from the fence.


Hope this helps, if you have further questions, fire away. I'm sure you will get plenty of advice from others here as well.

Stupid question here, but are you sure you got a TRA001? Unless they have upgraded the model (quite possible), because that push button selector was only on the newer (and smaller) version - the 1400W router, rather than the 2400W (or whatever they are in the US).

The button on the 1400W is always takes quite a good push to change modes - it isn't stiff, just good springs!

Skipping a few questions - the hose. As far as you can screw the Triton hose directly in, I've always found it a pain. Instead my vacuum came with a bit of an adapter - basically a bit of rubber the right diameter for the hose at one end, and a different diameter at the other - I just found one that was a good push-fit, and that is much easier!

Plunge - if using in a table, remember to remove the plunge spring (video on Stu's Shed TV see link in signature!). The plunge should be smooth, try a bit of graphite on each plunge rod. Again, big springs to counteract the heavy motor.

Just answered my own question - you have the absolute latest version of the TRA001. We don't even know this, but according to a bit of a web search:

From the Manufacturer
World's best router has just gotten better. Here are the new and improved features that make us #1 in the woodworking shop. Changing from free plunge to rack- and pinion mode as become even easier with just a push of a button. Our switch is now fully sealed in a rubber boot to ensure dust free operation. The plunge handle components have also been updated to metal gears for smoother operation and extended life. Our improved ¼ inch collet reducer makes changing to ¼-inch bit safer and easier.

Lucky bugger.


nice of them not to even tell the demonstrators

Originally Posted by Stuart

The plunge handle components have also been updated to metal gears

I wonder if that includes the plastic fine adjust worm shaft ? I was thinking of making a brass one but will buy it if I can.

Graham.

I'd imagine so. I wonder if these components will be available as spares - be nice to be able to update those we already own!

What a great site - I post a question at night, go to bed and wake up to the responses. Something to be said for the time difference!

It's good to know I have the new TRA001. The biggest problem was I couldn't really tell if it was an actual button and it didn't push easy the first time (nearly took off 1/2 my thumbnail). It's a little easier now; especially since I know what it's for.

I just realized I can't double up my entire tabletop because the unisaw extension table brackets only allow 3/4" to the unisaw tabletop. Since there's a supported lower shelf, I figured I could build my router enclosure and have it supported from below and the walls of the box will help avoid sag of the tabletop.

Dust collection is a complete pain - just getting the tool hoods configured to catch the fine dust is a major undertaking (not to mention the price of everything involved). BigShed - if you use the shopvac for the router DC attachment, what do you use for the exterior fence attachment? I imagine both would require more velocity than a DC can provide (especially coming from a 6" pipe).

I do have a mobile base but was afraid of heavying it up too much with a huge cabinet.

One last question: Like I said, I have a Delta Unisaw which I bought used from a friend. It runs on 220-volt (as opposed to the standard 110-volt in the states) and when I plug it in I hear an ever-so-slight 'hum'. Any idea what could cause this? It makes me nervous - not that I leave tools like this plugged in anyway.

Thanks again for the responses and being involved in a great site. It's nice to be reminded of the great people half way around the globe.

I'd guess the hum is a transformer. Nothing to be concerned about. (Remember this is a guess!)

Originally Posted by BlackStrat

Dust collection is a complete pain - just getting the tool hoods configured to catch the fine dust is a major undertaking (not to mention the price of everything involved). BigShed - if you use the shopvac for the router DC attachment, what do you use for the exterior fence attachment? I imagine both would require more velocity than a DC can provide (especially coming from a 6" pipe).

If you look in post #16 in my router table thread, you will see that from the 100mm fitting it splits into two 100mm fittings, one of those steps down to a 2 1/2" fitting which can either go to the router, shown in one of the photos, or go to my Incra Wonderfence, wich has the same fitting.
The same fitting that accepts the 2 1/2" hose on the the outside accepts the ShopVac hose on the inside. It looks like this.

The 2 1/2 hose is pushed over the the outside, or the ShopVac hose is pushed into the inside. It is very simple and quick. Inside the cabinet this fitting is cut to the size that accepts the Triton hose.

I plug my ShopVac in to the same powerboard that the router plugs in to, which in trun is operated by the master switch on the router table, so both come on and switch off at the same time. The DC is operated by a remote control.

The 'hum' would be from the electrical wiring - you must have a very quiet workshop to be able to hear it. If you had an electronic tone generator you would find that the pitch matched 60hz - in Australia its 50hz.

Dust collection from the router: You should only have to run a pipe from the port on the router shroud, no dust will get into the cabinet as the router motor fan blows from the top down to the base unlike a lot of older routers which suck dust up from the bit and coat the motor windings before blowing out the top (or the other way if its upside down in a table ;-) ). If the router enclosure on your table is open, you will find that a fence mounted hose will get all the dust from edge work - it does on my router table. The only time I need the router itself hooked up is when I am routing blind slots in the middle of a board & the top hose can't reach the dust.

The pipe used in the Triton system is a standard corrugated pipe used for electrical wiring - just make sure that it is supplied un-slit - the slit pipe is for DIY Hi-Fi wiring. If the length is short enough you could get away with plain flexible plastic pipe - even hydraulic flex pipe - from a light industrial or gardening suppliers.

You will probably need to get one of those multi-step adapters to join the small hose to a 4' or 6' dust system, or even a Shop-Vac. Or just build a step down fitting out of a block of wood - 4-6" hole on one side & a 1"+ hole from the other - as it going UP in diameter there should not be any chip jamming issues.

I too am in the throws of making a roll-around router table for a table saw. I'm going to build a 'Norm' style cabinet, then put some 1/4" brass screw inserts in the 'back' edge of the top. I can then screw the cabinet to the rear fence rails through the proved holes so it will swing around with the saw (on its own caster wheels) and support the long fence, but it will be easily removable if I want to use the router table separately - say if I have someone else working with me on a batch project. I may also put two holes for a router plate in the table top - so I can have the router near the edge for some jobs or more centered for jobs like dadoes in long cabinet sides.

I'm also looking to put 4 'T' tracks in the top - in a # pattern - so I can use jigs or a router style fence in any convenient direction, and still have the option to use the table saw fence with or without a router fence bolted on - again, very handy for multiple dadoes/trenches.

Great ideas - thanks for the input from everyone. I know have all kinds of possibilities swirling around in my head - time to get started!

Originally Posted by Stuart

Just answered my own question - you have the absolute latest version of the TRA001. We don't even know this, but according to a bit of a web search:

From the Manufacturer
World's best router has just gotten better. Here are the new and improved features that make us #1 in the woodworking shop. Changing from free plunge to rack- and pinion mode as become even easier with just a push of a button.

The Amazon article you quote still has the old picture, as do most other sites, but here's the picture of the actual TRC001, with push-button plunge lock but without above-the-table height winder of the MOF001 - which has been available in Canada for around two years.



Ray

Thanks Ray!
Wish the upgraded version (including the new collet) was available in Australia.

In case you're not aware, Stuart, the new "self-release style" collet chuck assembly will fit the Australian machine, but you need to replace the whole thing. This is NOT difficult and - once (perhaps I should say "if") I get the part numbers I require from another correspondent - I'll publish a page, with pics, detailing the conversion.

Ray.

I changed my routers over to the self-release collet about 6 months ago (I was lucky to get my hands on a couple). (I show the new collet in my Router Table video on Stu's Shed)

My method of changing the collet over is probably very similar to yours - involves removing the motor brushes so the router spins very easily (unplugged of course!), winding a string around the collet through the dust extraction port, pulling it to get it spinning (kind of like you would a child's top), then pushing the shaft lock in. This grabs the collet, and it unscrews off as easy as anything.

I have heard of people removing the top of the router, and winding the cord around the end of the shaft by the speed control unit, but I prefer my solution.