Thread: Clearvue CV1800 / Max Impeller Install - Home Garage Workshop

I also picked up a 225mm to 200 mm tapered reducer for my exhaust port. I'm not happy with the way I had to tear and tape the hvac duct to fit over the Clearvue port so will see if this gives me a smoother transition. Cost about $90-
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Originally Posted by DomAU

I also picked up a 225mm to 200 mm tapered reducer for my exhaust port. I'm not happy with the way I had to tear and tape the hvac duct to fit over the Clearvue port so will see if this gives me a smoother transition. Cost about $90

What was it about the previous arrangement that let you to believe there was a problem?

Had to do the same at the other end of the Mens shed Cleavue and made the transition up from a piece of scrap sheet metal.
Access to a set of sheet metal rulers helped.

Originally Posted by BobL

What was it about the previous arrangement that let you to believe there was a problem?

Had to do the same at the other end of the Mens shed Cleavue and made the transition up from a piece of scrap sheet metal.
Access to a set of sheet metal rulers helped.

I'm not sure if there is a problem, but to get the hvac hose onto the clearvue outlet I had to cut the radial stiffener and tear/ cut the plastic lining of the duct to get it over the exhaust transition. Then I had to tape the tear up and in the process reduced the diameter a bit due to the tension of the tape, leaving a 2-3 cm step immediately after the exhaust transition. I'm thinking this could be creating additional back pressure and possibly increasing the noise levels due to increased turbulence in this area. It could also be fine and this cost / work achieves nothing but it will grate on me if I don't try to improve it.

Another pic of the planer-thicknesser with modified port and flex hose attached in the thicknessing mode. Just because.
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Got a couple of things started / done this morning.

Started making the 6" dust port for the table-saw. First step; laminate a few pieces of MDF; about 60mm in total. Then using a little Trammel jig I made for my router I routed out a 160 mm (outer diameter of 150mm PVC) hole about 20 mm deep on one side and 154 mm hole from the other side for the remaining 40 mm or so(to suit the inner diameter of 150mm stormwater PVC)

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Then I used a large (Radius 31.8 mm) round-over bit to make a bell-mouth entry.

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I needed to make an MDF base for my router to use this bit as it was too big to fit through the standard base opening. I think it's close to 80mm in diameter. It's a monster!!
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And started fitting to the table saw.

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Also fitted some quick clamps to the bin. $12- for a 4 pack from Ebay. Work well.

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Dust port required no permanent mods and is completely reversible. I sandwiched some weatherseal between the saw and mdf to seal it. Ran one bolt short to finish!
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PVC piece is just a temporary trial piece. I'll run about a 1m length out before turning up to the top of the table and will then connect / disconnect with flex hose to the drop down as required ( I like to maintain shop mobility to allow for work on cars etc)

The bin looks interesting, any details appreciated as people have often asked me about bins and it may help someone in the future.

• Started making the 6" dust port for the table-saw. First step; laminate a few pieces of MDF; about 60mm in total. Then using a little Trammel jig I made for my router I routed out a 160 mm (outer diameter of 150mm PVC) hole about 20 mm deep on one side and 154 mm hole from the other side for the remaining 40 mm or so(to suit the inner diameter of 150mm stormwater PVC)
  
  Then I used a large (Radius 31.8 mm) round-over bit to make a bell-mouth entry.
  
  
  

Very good - hopefully this will inspire others to do this.

If the ducting is 150 mm then the "round over" should be 1/4 of that or 37.5mm, but 32mm is close enough, in fact ANY round over is better than none.

One issue with using such large router bits is that it's not recommended that router bits larger than 38mm in diameter (and that's only a 19 mm round over radius) be used in hand held routers (see CARB I TOOL Australia Pty Ltd.:. Safety Tips & Hints) so use a router table if you have one.
That's why I use a WW lathe to make the bell mouths as it it's very easy to turn up both the hole and the right bell mouth curve in a couple of minutes.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

The bin looks interesting, any details appreciated as people have often asked me about bins and it may help someone in the future.

Hi Chris,

I posted a bit about this a few pages ago. It's a home built special . It's about 150 litres, 500 mm diameter, 720 mm high. Made of three MDF rings clad in 6mm MDF skin and with a perspex window fitted to see the dust level. Took about 6 hours of work but like you say, I couldn't find an off-the-shelf alternative that suited my needs.

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Happy to help anyone out with advice if they want to make one but I feel it's an acquired taste for a bin .

Originally Posted by BobL

Very good - hopefully this will inspire others to do this.

If the ducting is 150 mm then the "round over" should be 1/4 of that or 37.5mm, but 32mm is close enough, in fact ANY round over is better than none.

One issue with using such large router bits is that it's not recommended that router bits larger than 38mm in diameter (and that's only a 19 mm round over radius) be used in hand held routers (see CARB I TOOL Australia Pty Ltd.:. Safety Tips & Hints) so use a router table if you have one.
That's why I use a WW lathe to make the bell mouths as it it's very easy to turn up both the hole and the right bell mouth curve in a couple of minutes.

Thanks Bob!

I used this bit in a hand held router, (Festool OF1400), but dialed down the speed to minimum, and only cut it bit by bit, plunging the router bit lower with each pass. I imagine that going in full depth in one pass could lead to tragedy .

Also hooked up some ducting to the band saw. This is an intermediate solution so that I can get rid of the 2HP Dusty and start on some projects I need to complete. Ultimately I'll run 3x 100mm ducts, make some sort of bell mouth entry for the overhead hose (as well as canting it in towards the cut more), look at improving or replacing the splitter box and probably reduce the quantity of flex.
Also waiting on some hose clamps from Stephen at clearvue.
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Dust extraction from a BS is tricky.

The best one I have seen on this forum is this one
Beginner attempt at DC - thanks to forum members

Basically if the "direct under table" duct is well positioned almost no dust will get into the cabinet making all cabinet ports redundant.

The next best place is in front of the front lip of the table as the moving wood drags sawdust around the blade, between the wood and the table forward to drop over the front lip of the table.

The next best place in above the wood just above the freshly open kerf. There is very little visible dust here but lots of fine dust wafting upwards from the cut.