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Thread: Dusty ducting
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6th March 2008, 09:29 PM #1
Dusty ducting
I got a carba-tec dust extractor recently, and planned to run some ducting to 4 points in my smallish shed. It's one of the 1hp units, and I intended to have a shutoff valve at each point, and only have 1 open at a time.
I'm having a couple of days off, so went to Bunnings and picked up some 4" pipe and fittings. I had already bought the valves from carba-tec.
So now I have a 4" dusty, 4" valves, and 4" fittings....it's just too easy.
Yeh right! The 4" pipe is 4" on the inside. The 4" valve are about 3 3/4", and slop around the inside of the pipe like a <expletive deleted>. The 4" flex hose, doesn't even look like being able to go over the 4" pipe, which is 4 1/4" on the outside.
Can anyone offer advice as to how to duct this thing?Chris
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6th March 2008, 09:43 PM #2Deceased
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I got some old rubber carpet underlay, cut it into strips and wrapped it around the CT fittings with duct tape and then pushed the fittings into the pipe and finished the joints of with duct tape.
Any carpet store has off cuts of the underlay.
Peter.
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6th March 2008, 10:51 PM #3
Chris,
if you buy some sockets for the 100mm sewer pipe which I assume you're using, you'll find that the flexi ducting is a snug push fit inside the sockets.
Mick"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
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6th March 2008, 11:00 PM #4
Exactly what Journeyman said, Chris you hit the same gripe I had when I set my dusty up. I gave C/Tec a serve over it but it was no use. The sockets are pricey at $17 or so from Bunnies. Sturdee's suggestion would be cheaper. I orginally got some rubber and glued it on the inside of the alleged 4" gates, but soon gave up.
One thing I found with the gates (plastic ones) is put a bolt in each corner to strengthen them.
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6th March 2008, 11:13 PM #5
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6th March 2008, 11:19 PM #6
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7th March 2008, 01:27 PM #7
Thanks guys, I should have measured everything up front I stupidly assumed that 4" was 4"
So I'll take everyones suggestions....and do my own thing. (No I wont). Thanks for all the help.Chris
========================================
Life isn't always fair
....................but it's better than the alternative.
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7th March 2008, 04:03 PM #8
Chris,
This post might help as well,
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=50689
Fletty
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7th March 2008, 04:08 PM #9
Thanks Fletty, I saw that fitting at CT today, but didn't think of grinding it down.
I am gradually getting there.......but jeeeeeeeze, it's going to cost nearly as much as the dusty.Chris
========================================
Life isn't always fair
....................but it's better than the alternative.
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7th March 2008, 05:09 PM #10
We ran a 5HP CT dusty in the factory at one time, plumbed with 100m sewer PVC and matching T and elbows.
To connect the CT 4in flexi to the PVC, we used a CT M-018 'connector' (M-M flexi hose joiner) with the hose fixed at one end with a hose clamp. The other end was a neat sliding fit into the sockets of the PVC fittings.
Hope this helps.
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7th March 2008, 06:50 PM #11
Not sure how long your runs are, but you may find after all that hard work, the 1HP unit will strugle anyway . I've got long runs on mine, but I opened up the intake to help when I connected it to a cyclone. You can check it out here if you are interested, it also has ideas on home made gates also.
CheersNeil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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10th March 2008, 05:21 PM #12
Try 90mm Stormwater
Hi
I always use 90mm stormwater, why, cheaper, good range of fittings and they can just be taped together with duct tape, makes for easy relocation. The small reduction in size doesn't matter, but the flex fits it snugly.
Grahame
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10th March 2008, 07:36 PM #13
g'day chris
I did something similar to Sturdee.....but just used duct tape wraped around the flex pipe a couple of times to create a snug fit into the bell end of the 100mm PVC fittings.....then more on the outside to hold it in place.....cheap (only cost an extra roll or two of duct tape) but it works
here is an example of one of my connections with blast gate
Attachment 68919
cheers
BD
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11th March 2008, 01:14 PM #14
Thanks for all the suggestions, and obviously there is no single solution. I have attacked it a little different, and it seems to work as well.
Pic 1. The problem was to attach the plastic blast gate (carb-tec) to a PVC socket. I cut a section of pipe, at about 70 long. I cut a small section out of the wall, bit by bit, until I could close the pipe up over the spigot on the gate. It probaly needed about 6mm or so removed, until the cuts just touched when it was in tight contact with the gate. I then used plenty of pipe glue, and held it all tight with elastic bands. This results in a slightly loose fit to the pipe socket.
Pic2. Stuck it into the pipe socket, with heaps of glue. Once the glue had set, I dribled more down the end, to fill the gaps. I also left a bit of room for duct tape, just to be sure. It's seems to be a quite strong joint, and the 4" hose will fit directly onto the other side of the gate.
Also in Pic2, is my solution for my sanders, hand routers etc. I got a PVC reducing socket, and turned a wood adapter to take the small vacuum hose. This is just sitting in the pipe fitting in the pic, as I need to repeat the mod to the gate.
I then have to fit 2 more gates, and I'm done. I will only have one gate open at a time, and initial test on my longest run appear to give me enough vacuum to be useful. The longest run, to my mini lathe, is about 3.7M including the flex hose, so it's not a huge run. Time will tell though, and I'll let you know how successful it is.Chris
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Life isn't always fair
....................but it's better than the alternative.
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12th March 2008, 11:04 AM #15GOLD MEMBER
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Perhaps the following could be a cheap solution.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=28127
Regards,
Bob
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