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  1. #1
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    Default Junkyard score and wheels query

    Nothing too special, but I'm pretty chuffed with this find. Picked up three of these little rippers for $20 each at a scrap yard (Wendouree Machinery and Sales) this arvo. They're 920Hx600Wx450L, weigh a tonne and are as solid as a rock. I was planning on buying some decent metal to make some basic rectangular stands/shelves but would have spent more on that, not to mention the cost of welding materials and frustration, than I did with these pre-made jobbies that happened to be hidden around the place.

    I'm thinking one each for a thicknesser, router and drop saw or mini drill press.

    Once I've weighed them properly and figured out the extra weight of the tools to go on top I thought I'd grab some wheels for them as I have a small workshop and being able to move the drop saw in particular out into a bigger area would be pretty handy.

    The maybe silly question is, of the four wheels on a stand, how many would need to swivel (my guess is all four) for easy movement, and how many would need to have a brake on them (guessing two).

    The maybe not so silly, but still a bit goofy, question is if the whole stand and tool weighs say 65kg, should all four wheels be rated to 65kg or is the load spread between the four legs, and if so, is there a rule to follow/calculate what load rating the wheels should be?

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Nice score for starters

    I'd weld a set of out rigger wheels as they would become top heavy (maybe with drill press)

    Each wheel is rated total is what they all will hold so 4 x 65 kg

    You can fit either way rigid rear swivel front but a lockable front is a good idea.

  4. #3
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    Default

    Really top notch suggestion for the outriggers. I hadn't thought about them toppling, especially when moving them around.

    I'm not much of a metalworker (or woodworker for that matter ) and I'm guestimating they're around 40-50kg; can you suggest what sort of steel I should be looking at getting to build it? Would, say, 25mm x 3mm box do the trick if I have crossmembers (about 1/3 of the way in from each edge if I build parallel with the top) under each side of the stand (which has a flat bottom all the way around) or should I go bigger...even up to 40mm? I don't have the foggiest about how much weight different steel formats can take and naturally wouldn 't like it to start sagging but don't want to go overboard.

    [EDIT: Just had an after-thought...why not match the size and thickness of what they're made out of....49mm x 6mm corner]

    I was also thinking of doing a wooden skin around the stands with doors at the front just so they look prettier and to keep the dust at bay because I thought a storage shelf or two would be handy in each of them.

  5. #4
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    Default

    There's probably some excess capacity beyond the safe working load for each wheel, but the safest approach would be to assume only 3 wheels in contact (e.g. tripod), to allow for floor irregularity and rigidity of the contraption. A more flexible stand could exploit all 4 wheels.

    For stability, ensure that the vertical load is within the middle third of the wheelbase footprint each way (all 4 wheels). I think.

    Good score, BTW.

    Cheers,
    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  6. #5
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    Exclamation

    Great score the RSG!!

    At least one se of lockable wheels on each unit is a great idea.

  7. #6
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    Default

    I have my thicknesser on a stand and have one pair of fixed wheels and one pair of lockable swivel wheels and that works well.

    You could also put at least one shelf in your stand to hold the various accessories for the relevant machine.
    Tom

    "It's good enough" is low aim

  8. #7
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    Default

    Yeh I was thinking of going for a pair of lockable swivels at the front and plain swivels for the back. Seems to be a nice meeting of economics and usefulness. I'm still deciding on how to make the outrigger frames for them and doing a bit more shopping/research this arvo but I think that's going to be the last task I'll do. I've got some wicked 75mm X ~8mm u-channel steel in mind that's only $10 a metre which might be overkill but isn't going to move an inch when it's done.

    I'm already ahead of you on the shelves Chesand That's been today's job. All of them are getting at least one shelf and the stand for the router is getting a sort of shelf that will enclose the router when it's hanging from the top, but the bottom half is going to be 2 or 3 drawers for easy sotrage and access to bits and accessories.

    I'm taking some progress pics of the work being done on them so when they're all skinned up with wood and lookin' pretty I can show them off.

  9. #8
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    Default

    NO NOT REAR SWIVELS ooop caps lock sorry

    APIA as these will allow movement you want rigid.

    U channel short lengths turned upside down mounted up the side a bit so frame hangs below most stable.

  10. #9
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    Default wheels

    Which ones swivel and which ones don't is a bit dependant on how much room u have to maneuver and the distance u have to move before the stand is in the place u want it, for my money... small area and small distance to move (inches) all wheels swivel and at least to lock, with more distance to move (feet) and more area u can get away with fixed and swivel with lock on the swivels. Nothing worse than having a set of fixed wheels that won't let u go in the direction u want to go, mind u it can be a pain also if u have all swivels and u r going a long distance shopping trolley for eg

    As far as how much wieght each wheel will carry...I would design for 2 wheels to carry the load (2 points of contact is the minimum) (short of u picking up the other 3) so each wheel is capable of half the total load

    Pete

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