Thread: A Real Workshop

What are you going to do for an encore when you are finished.

Regards

Originally Posted by Scally

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I gave all the edges a clean up and a coat of finish. The first door was ready to go on.
The smart thing would be to find a mate to give me a hand.
Too impatient for that and I needed to see if my measurements were right???

...

Since when do we do the smart thing?
I too would have had to check to see if it fit and what it looked like

looks good

Originally Posted by A Duke

What are you going to do for an encore when you are finished.

Regards

Bomb shelters

The two side doors are now on.

They look a bit too bright against the stark wall. It will look better once the Ezy Lap goes on above the door and it all gets a coat of cream paint.

It is nice to look out the house windows and see nice Rose Butternut and Tassie Blackwood doors instead of a big opening.

Thanks Sawdust Maker. The second doors was even easier than the first. The doors aren't as heavy as I thought.
I brought the bathroom scales out and the doors are 50kg each.
Should be no problem for the 250kg rated rollers and track.

I'm not sure if "finished" can be used for a shed, A Duke, but once the three front doors are on, I would like to lay back in the spa (assuming it is in) with a cold beer and watch sport on the outdoor TV screen.

It would be good to get away from mud, concrete and steel and just do some woodwork.

Cheers

damn nice Scally you got time to come do mine when your done?

I brought the frame timber for the three front doors out of the shed.
The only place big enough to see how they went together was the lawn.

The verticals are about 3m long which would be a challenge short tablesaw outfeed table.
I decided to build a new outfeed table.
My old one was hinged to the tablesaw so I could fold it down. This was important in the garage because it gave me more space.

In the new shed I have a big door opening and can fit a bigger permanent outfeed table.
I also like the idea of having a mobile workbench/cabinet.

There is also a short term need to have a large dolly to move a spa.

This is what I have come up with.

A mobile trolly :

1200 wide and 1500mm long.
Heavy duty (140kg) swiveling and lockable castors.
The "dolly" base can be removed by undoing four screws.

Materials........whatever I had on hand.......plywood base and hardwood frame.

The dolly is attached to the frame with four screws through two lengths of aluminium angle.

The top is film ply attached with Figure 8 connectors. The film ply has a smooth surface and with stand a shower of rain......until I get the doors finished.
I rounded the corners to protect my hips and rounded over the edges.
Mitre slots were cut with the router and a straight bit.

The trolly feels rigid but it could get some abuse so I decided to insert plywood panels on the back and one side.

The big space under the top looks inviting???
Maybe I will add a shelf and a couple of doors/drawers on the end???
It would make sense to store spare blades/spanners, jigs and sleds in the cart.

I will give it some thought while I am cutting the door frames.

Cheers

Scally, thanks very much for all the great pics and explanations, Bill.

The old outfeed table looks pretty sda on top of the new version.
Now I get to give it a good test.

All the timber for the frames have been dressed and cut to near length.

Next job is to cut the grooves fro the panels.

I spent a fair bit of time setting up the Freud dado blades to 12.7mm and 20mm deep.
The fence on my tablesaw has a habit of moving when I put a bit of pressure on it. I have a clamp on one end and a mag-guide on the other.

The outfeed table is just long enough for the long boards so I added the tripod roller stand beyond it for additional support.
There are 21 boards to do. The frame has grooves on the inside and the muntins and middle rail have grooves on both edges.
I marked up all the boards on their face side.
Even though the fence is set to cut the dado in the middle of the boards, I will put the face sides against the fence.

Planning and measuring done. Time to start the tablesaw.

All the grooves are cut.

It was steady going cutting the wide grooves on the tablesaw.
One mishap.........After doing the first few boards I noticed that the saw blades had worked low.
I reset the depth and locked the blade.

Unfortunately the interruption upset my brain and I cut an extra groove on the outside of the bottom rail.
You can see the three wide boards in the second picture. They are the bottom rails. The middle one is the problem.
I cut a strip 20mm wide and 13mm thick and glued it with Titebond III.

The repair is noticeable (see the last pic) but probably not obvious once the door is finished.
The important thing is that it is solid.

Originally Posted by Scally

...
Unfortunately the interruption upset my brain and I cut an extra groove on the outside of the bottom rail.
You can see the three wide boards in the second picture. They are the bottom rails. The middle one is the problem.
I cut a strip 20mm wide and 13mm thick and glued it with Titebond III.

The repair is noticeable (see the last pic) but probably not obvious once the door is finished.
The important thing is that it is solid.

So you spent the next 10 minutes swearing at yourself and 1/2 hour fixing the brain phart moment ?
looks like a good recovery and who'll notice?

Something like that Sawdust Maker.
I gave the plate steel of the table saw a vicious kick. It never flinched but the pain in my foot felt well deserved.

I am sure it won't be my last stuff-up but hopefully I can postpone the next one.


Thanks for your comment Bill, I'm glad you liked the explanation and pics.

A little distraction today. A friend brought around a Red Cedar slab to break down. We ended up with 5 nice dressed boards about 200mm wide.

It is good having the extra support with the outfeed table so I decided to do a similar thing for the Mortiser.

I have made the mortiser bed the same height as my workbench and that will support one end of the door sides.

On the first two doors I supported the other end on a trestle with a bit of plywood clamped to it to give me the right height.

It was fiddly and flimsy.

A recent Tip of the Day had sawhorses with a nice wide top and legs that could be removed.
The attached are my version.

The tall sawhorse is the same height as the mortiser, workbench and the tablesaw.
This should work fine.

The shorter sawhorse is the right height for using the mafell bandsaw.

The good thing is that I can rip up four more legs make the sawhorse any height I need. Just remove the holding screw on each leg.

I needed to make some space to do the mortising so I move some of the stuff away from the back wall.

It seemed like a good time to line the back walls.
My plan is to have a Flat sheet store in one corner.......I have a temporary one there already......and a long bench along the back wall with the SCMS and timber racks above the bench.

I have drill holes through the frames and run pull wire through them.

Next step was to put up the insulation. I bought it by the roll so I just need to cut it to the length of each cavity.

The lining is 12mm ply. My local Home Hardware sell it for $35 for a 2400 x 1200mm sheet.

The back wall is 2700 high.
The side walls increase towards the front of the shed.

I decided to run the sheets down from the top so the joins are near the bottom of the wall. This should look neater as most of the joins will be covered with cabinets and benches.
I cut a rebate along the edges of the sheets to act as a lap joint.

After putting up the first sheet I realised that I should add noggins to support the sheet joins.

It was a pain trying to hold the sheets in place and screw them down so I tacked a board along the bottom to support them at the right height.

The shed looks better already.

Originally Posted by Scally

It was a pain trying to hold the sheets in place and screw them down so I tacked a board along the bottom to support them at the right height.

Tek screw a short cleat horizontally near the top of each sheet.
Stand the sheet up against the wall.
Jam a 3m long piece of timber under the cleat with the other end on the floor.
Kick the piece of timber in and it will lift and hold the sheet in place.

The shed looks better already.

Yep - looks good.