Thread: New old bandsaw owner

Hi LifetimeBan,
I'm wondering what " The top guide Blacks " is.
Like they say mostly here is, can you show us a photo please.
$150 to me would be most of the money you spent on buying the Saw.
Must be a rather large part to be that expensive..
The penny just fell, & I think you mean, the Blocks that the blade travels through.
Let us all know if this is the problem.
Regards,
issatree.

Originally Posted by issatree

Hi LifetimeBan,
I'm wondering what " The top guide Blacks " is.
Like they say mostly here is, can you show us a photo please.
$150 to me would be most of the money you spent on buying the Saw.
Must be a rather large part to be that expensive..
The penny just fell, & I think you mean, the Blocks that the blade travels through.
Let us all know if this is the problem.
Regards,
issatree.

Yeah issatree, fat finger typo, should read top blade guide block. Paid $150 for the saw. Was giving it a clean and tune last night and found what at this stage is a major? problem. The cast iron holding the upper blade guide blocks has cracked on 1 side, meaning I can't tighten the guide block, so the blade can wander through the cut more than it should. Only solution I can see is to buy the upgrade bearing guides from Carbatec/Timbecon, about $90, unless there is someone in WA who has an old upper guide going cheap/free.

Cheers
Darren

A third solution, which might be more trouble than it's worth, would be to repair the cracked casting. And the part might be too small to execute anyway.

If you can squeeze the component into alignment, and still have room to work, drill a hole of proper size through the crack and tap it while clamped. Place a piece of threaded rod into the hole, engaging both sides of the crack. Grind flush at both outside surfaces. There are several variations possible. I used a similar technique to repair cracked pulley spokes on a roadside orphan concrete mixer, and it's been running fine for a few years.

A photo could enlighten possibilities.

Cheers,
Joe