Thread: Coplaning wheels

Have you looked to see if the arm which holds the top wheel housing has some adjustment where it attaches to the bottom section. It would be about table height and should be a few bolts (well it is on mine but as yoiu know, mine is pretty ancient)

I think I saw in another thread where it was suggested that you put a washer behjind the top wheel as a way of moving it out. I'm not sure about that one - it's just a thought.

G'day Gumby,

Yeah, either of those two are the sort of thing I'm looking for - can't find any way to do the second thing you mentioned and I'll have a look for the first.

Maybe a new day tomorrow will bring me the results I'm after.

If I read your post correctly what you need to do is adjust the bottom wheel, usually
with four grub screws or bolts on the back of the stub axel.

Once that is lined up more with the top wheel then adjust the top wheel with the
tracking adjust knob on the back.

You probably have to do this a couple of times till the wheels become coplaner.

That may not be explained as well as it could but that will in fact fix it unless something is seriously bent.

If I knew how to draw a diagram on this thing it would be easier,

Greolt

Originally Posted by Chris!

G'day,

In my quest to tune my 14" b/s up, I'm now trying to get the wheels coplanar. I've got the wheels paralle, but not coplanar.

The problem is there is no adjustment on the upper wheel to move it in and out. The wheel rotates on a ball bearing colar locked it by a nut, the axel is threaded. Any ideas on how I can move the wheel in or out? I've looked for a grub screw that might be on the wheel somewhere to release but can find nothing, can't find anything else either.

The b/s in question is a 14" Champion.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Chris, since the wheels are parallel, use a straight edge and a set of feeler guages. Measure the amount of difference and cut some donut shim stock to match that amount. Insert donut (washer) shims to adjust the wheel out to match the other.

BTW, while a number of folks put a lot of stock in getting co-planar and parallel wheels, it isn't really necessary. It sounds good, but really it doesn't matter so long as the blades track correctly.

Some further thoughts; ensure you measure the coplanarity from the hubs and not the perimeter and, second, did you originally measure parallel whilst the wheels were under tension?

G'day,

Greolt, yeah that was my next line of thought that I should have a look at lower wheel and see if I can move it on its axel.

Groggy, I measured from the hub and while under some tension but not full. After hearing and seeing how quietly and smoothly Gumby's b/s ran and also to try and get the optimum out of my b/s I'm trying to get it running nice and sweet.

My b/s endured a trip by trailer from Qld down here to Vic (inclusive of about 40km of rough dirt road) so before I get down to business with it it probably needs some tender care.

I'll probably have another question posted tomorrow.

People seem to get this idea that you need to move one wheel out or in to get it in line with the other.
The only reason I can think of that would be needed is if the machine has had some serious damage.

If you tilt the bottom wheel (via the adjusters on the back of the stub axel) to come in line with the top wheel
then tilt the top wheel (via the tracking adjustment) till it lines up with the bottom.

You need to do this a couple of times till you get it spot on. Always check with straight edge when tension is on.

If this is still not clear then I will draw a diagram and scan and post it.

Greolt

See if this picture works.

Drawing is exagerated to make it clear.

1. Wheels parallel but not coplanar

2. Bottom wheel adjusted with grub screws to line better with top wheel

3. Top wheel adjusted with tracking adjust knob to line with bottom

4. Repeat till correct

5. Also get wheels in "Wind"

I don't think the Jet has any angle adjustment on the lower wheel. I did the washer thing - only took a few mins. Then the motor blew up........

Tassie are you sure you didn't bind up the wheel by putting a washer where it's not sposed to be and hence the motor over worked?

Greolt

G'day Greolt,

thanks for the posts. I've spent much of the day down in the shed doing a little bit of tuning and fitting a fence to the b/s. It should be a bit better when I go out and get a new 1/4" 6tpi st blade tomorrow.

Wheels are close enough to copplanar, but when I fit the new blade I may get better.

Does anyone have a b/s that isn't nice and quiet, with no vibrations? It'd be nice to know that I'm not the only one, but if I am, do I give up at a certain point and make do? Wheels are round, the tyres a bit worn from age, but I won't go down the track yet of replacing the tyres - my wife needs to be introduced to spending at a subtle pace otherwise I'm in trouble.

Sure I'm sure, to be sure. So's Mr Jet - that's why the new motor is on the way!