Thread: Replace splayed base on Bandsaw

If you replace the existing base with a smaller base, you are going to have to put a lot of ballast in it as a bandsaw is already very top-heavy - that splayed base is there for a reason.

Not sure whether you are talking about the BP352, but about a year ago I was in the market for one of these, but didn't like the splayed legs on the base. Went to Carbatec and their equivalent model does not have the spyed legs, but a straight sided cupboard type base the same size as the bandsaw base. I had some reservations re stability, bu they been unfounded.
Am considering making my own MDF base with castors, 2 of which will lock down.

I find that the height of the table of these is somewhat on the high side, does anyone have any ideas on the ideal heigt of a bandsaw table?

Thanks for your thoughts so far. Well I made up a small cabinet using 18 mm mdf. The canbinet per se is fairly heavy however that doesn't stop it from wobbling :mad:. Have some 25 pound barbell discs and put a couple in there and still some wobble :mad: :mad: .

Big Shed I looked at the Carbatec catalogue and can see the model you're talking about with a base no bigger than the bandsaw base itself. I'm now thinking about welding something up but I'm still not confident there won't be some wobble there. I now have some respect for the splayed thin steel that stand that came with the machine in that it holds the machine up and no wobble yet is very light.

BTW does anyone know what angle the splayed legs work best, is there such a thing or is it just a guess?

Hi Tiger,
I do this quite often to machines and benches. Splayed is probably a bit safer where a bit of weight is concerned. Being a metalfabber by trade, I like to make my bases from steel.

If your think you may have trouble welding them,due to lack of thickness, you might go this way.
Old metal bed frames , the type that have springs in them are generally made from 40 x 40 x 3 parallel edge angle. I pick mine up at the recycle centre for about $4 each. Thats about 6 metres of angle,enough to make a base or two.

Do a layout of a side view of your frame on a bit of carboard carton.
I lay out the pieces on a flat surface where I have transferred the view in section from the carboard with a heavy pencil or indelible marker.An old bit of hardie sheet is ideal to tack up on.

The frames can be cut up with one of the new generation 2mm "thin " cutter blades that fit the standard 100 mm angle grinder. These blades literally cut down to he pencil line greatly reducing any margin for error.

If I where doing a bandsaw,say a 350mm one ,I would allow a splay of about 50 wider than the machine base.I am keen on castor wheels and find them at Super Cheap Auto at $7.50 each for the 75mm wheel size I like.
I tack up using 2.5mm electrodes.Tack up all sections,brackets ,cleats etc. before welding anything. Tack up using slightly higher amps than you would weld the beads with. Try to tack up on corners and go from diagonal to diagonal opposittes. Use the same diagonal technique when welding beads starts.

Keep the beads of weld extremely short . It's too much weld that causes distortion. Understand that 25 mm of correctly welded bead will hold the weight of your car.

Trial that all four of your castors touch the ground before finally welding up the frame.Tacks can be cut and moved fairly easily,not so fully welded beads.

When finished, brush up and etch prime then a finish coat of hammertone paint gives your job a proffesional appearence.

Grahame

here is a piccy of a saw frame (sorry not bandsaw but metalworking drop saw).





It is easy to mark,cut ,layout and weld due to its parallel flanges. Even better it cheap at the recycle joint.

If theres any interest I will do a thingy on layout for welding in the metalworking forum next week.

Cheers
Grahame

I have always used 5 degrees for the Splay on bases I have built (I got that number by measuring manufactured bases) They work for me. The purpose of the splay is to widen the footprint and make the device more stable as it must be lifted over the fulcrum point to topple, this uses the machines own weight to stabalize it not the bases weight.

Having said that, I had, in an earlyier life, a bandsaw with a metal box base that was the same width as the saw, but the motor was mounted in line with the wheels and that kept the center of gravity lower. My Ridgid saw here at home is on Splayed base but the motor is mounted on the base parallel to the lower wheel . This does create a wider footprint and I can see where it takes up more precious room in my tiny dust bowl "shed" shop. But not "That" much... How much room will you be gaining for all your efforts?

Hi Grahame and Hickory,

Thank you for your thoughts.

Grahame, I like your layout for your saw, do you buy locking castors or non-locking castors for your benches? What angle of splay do you use? Is there much vibration when your tools run because they are resting on castors?

Hickory, you are onto something with your analysis. I found that when I moved the bandsaw to different spots on the bench it became more stable, the steel column part seems to carry most of the weight on my machine. The current splay is somewhere b/w 15 and 20 degrees. Would I be correct in saying that it requires that much angle because the metal is so thin and that if I welded something up with thicker steel I could get away with less angled splay thereby creating a bit more (but alas not much more) room than what I currently have?

Hi Tiger
I had no idea at all was the angle was.In the shed I went and put the protractor on the frame and bugger me it was 5 degrees. The angle was never measured by degree , but rather set up by measurement one side of the frame in assembly and then duplicated by the other.

The castors are free with no brake as that is what super cheap had and $7.50 each seemed a good price against what the other highway robbers in town charge. I am only cutting light stuff and have had no problems as yet. I was prepared to put in /on a wind down screw or cam wheel if need be as brake castors are too expensive for me.

A hint here is to place the braking device (two are plenty ) inside the borders of the lower frame. Otherwise you will always manage to stub a toe on the projecting item-ask me how I know.

If you are still nervous about light walled material,chase up some 2mm diameter electrodes .They work ok. Remember tack everything before welding and run small beads on opposite sids of the frame to each other.

Lets us know how you get on.

Grahame

Grahame, I will probably leave the stand as I won't gain much ground even if there's a small amount of splay in the legs. I am interested in the layout you alluded to earlier in this post and also what can be done with welding to help our woodworking.

Hi tiger,
I am putting a tutorial on frame layout tack and welding together now.As I have to do something similiar for school. when i finish i will place it in the metalwork section.

I hope to do it complete with piccies and step by step.

Grahame