Thread: Resaw problem - wandering cut

is the blade sharp? try a new blade . and check set on teeth ,sometimes its out one side a little more . if tension and guides are set right , its the blade usually , good luck . bob

sounds like the blade is blunt or uneven set or insufficient tension.
Macrocarpra usually slices easily and evenly

If the blade is reasonably sharp, and the set is unchanged, then the problem is likely to lie with loose guides (top or bottom). When it occurs on my bandsaw, it is usually because a lower guide has become loose.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks guys. Blade has not done much work (and not on any real hard wood). I adjusted the guides up tight before I started. Maybe it is a set problem. I'll try a different blade anyway. I figured a 3/8 (well, wider the better) blade would be better for re-saw work than a narrower one - maybe that isn't true. I'll try a 1/4" blade see what happens. Thanks again.

Check where it is riding on the wheels. It should be centered. If it is too far forward or back, the blade will have a tendency to drift.

Tex

Tex thanks. It is centered on the top wheel but if I put too much tension on it, it rides forward on the lower driving wheel. I never noticed this before - always central on both before this..... the frame is probably not as rigid as would be desirable. It is a Scheppach - not 3 ton cast iron..... Maybe this is an excellent case for a vast CapEx to replace the machine.... I don't usually resaw timber so it is a new problem.

Might see if less tension on the blade will keep it centered on both wheels, and maybe the drift will disappear.

Tex

On mine, too little (not too much) tension is another cause of drift. A loose blade will tend to follow the grain.

Regards from Perth

Derek

It could be your fence that is the problem. Most saws don't cut in line with the fence. Have a read here for the set up I use.


https://www.woodworkforums.com/f27/fences-12346

You could also try using a 1/2in by 3 tpi blade. Once centred on the top wheel and tensioned correctly, (not overtight!) you may find it will cut the way you want. It positively worked for me.
Shep

This is one of the interesting things about bandsaws, I reckon. There are so many adjustments you can make, so many things to fiddle with. Good thing it usually cuts OK with most of them a little off, otherwise I'd never be able to cut anything.

Murray, I'd recommend just fiddling with this and that until you get the cut you want, then don't change anything and hope for the best.

Also the article in FWW a couple of years ago is pure gold. Search the bandsaw forum threads for references.

Tex

Non existent problem with the ripper Frontline bandsaw jig

blades on band saws (particularly the cheaper ones) don't stay sharp very long.

It's easy to knock the edge of one in half an hour.

If you are resawing you need a sharp blade.
As the blade "goes off" the cut will start to drift first one way then tother.
the cut will start to barrel inspite of any ammount of tension.

I have also found if you have been cutting circles with a blade forget any serious straight work from that blade.

I have a reasonably large well set up machine & once the blade ( any blade any size) starts to go off, there is not a damn thing you can doo to keep it straight.
Still seems to be cutting fine though.

cheers

For resawing, use a blade as wide as your saw can take. Then the blade itself can help to maintain tracking. Compare a hacksaw vs. a wider-blade handsaw. Similar results.

It occurs to me that when cutting circles, one might alternate the direction of cut from one circle to the next, if the throat can accommodate the blank. In other words, clockwise, anti-clockwise, CW, ACW, etc. This could reduce eccentricity of changes in set of the teeth due to wear. Theory not yet tested.

Joe