Adelaide Show - Aftermath

**zenwood** · 29th July 2005, 09:18 PM

Well, for me the Adelaide WW show has been and gone.

Thoughts: It's bloody hard to arrange rendezvouses at these events. You keep getting distracted by the goodies. Still, I did recognise a snazzy camera that was attached to Studley. And I met Neil at the Ubeaut stand. He was kind enough to give me a private demo of sealer, EEE and a swansdown mop. Guess what I bought from him...

I also met Mr Baldy at the stand, who invited me to his club:eek:. Surely not, I thought, you're way balder that me!!! Nah, he's a good bloke. You know who you are. PM me about that club. Or maybe announce it here: there must be more than me eligible.

There was another curiosity at the Ubeaut stand: a watermelon sitting on the floor at the back??? Tankstand and Tikki had been around, that's for sure (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...3&postcount=10). Unfortunately (or is that fortunately) I didn't bump into them.

Had a good chat with Phil Ashby at the MIK stand about Sharpening. Hmmm, I may have to slowly change my approach. After a few seconds on a couple of waterstones, and some stropping on bit of leather nailed around some wood, his edge was better than anything I can do with scarysharp. Bugger. Well: at least I know now what to aspire to. Trouble is, I'll have to fork out on a waterpond, stones, arkansas stone, strop,... Never mind, it was still good to learn from an obvious master like Phil.

Had a good chat with the bloke who's setting up the new Lie-Nielsen operation in Oz. I was pleased to learn that he's lining up a deal with an Adelaide saw sharpener to sharpen the Lie-Nielsen saws. I had a go with the crosscut straight-handled dovetail saw. Wow! It did rip cuts almost as well as the rip dovetail saw, and used for crosscutting: left a surface behind that felt like glass. Also had a go with a #4-1/2 smoother and the #8 jointer: some hefty material there. Note: they will also be supplying Starrett tools as well, with the aim of paying the same amount here as you'd pay in the states. Sounds like a good deal.

Bought some nice bits of timber for possible use in boxes. Bit of straight-grained huon pine, some blackheart sassafras, and a packet of assorted veneers. I was a tad disappointed not to see more of a selection of moderate-sized boards. There were lots of emormous slabs, and a good choice of burls, but I'd have liked to see more of a selection of Australian species of moderate size--to fit in a car, for example.

Spent twenty minutes when my feet were getting tired sitting and watching Richard Raffan doing a turned box. A lot of what he was saying went over my head (I'm not a turner), but it was great just to sit back and watch a master at work. He can tell how thin the base of a box is by the sound it makes. And he just so obviously knew everything about what he was doing, it was a joy to watch.

Took in my ozzie multijig that I had dropped on the concrete floor a while back, to see if Des Fenelon could fix up the fence for me. And he did...a few sharp bangs with a hammer and it was as good as new. I had spent an hour or so with a vice and an engineer's square trying to gently tap in back into squareness without breaking the thing. Des obviously knew what to do: thanks mate. He also showed me how in most applications the fence wasn't really necessary: just check the alignment by feel. That's the great thing about these shows: face-to-face contact with the masters can yield such treasures.

pic 1: my first bandsaw box, along with some other acquisitions...see what you can spot. A mix of non-dark and dark-side stuff.

pic 2: After getting a coffee on the way home, and a pleasant hour or so in the musical company of John Lee Hooker, the spot in the shed formerly occupied by my 100-year old mitre saw acquired at an American yard sale, is now occupied by a shiny new BAS-350. Well, the shed needed some more orange in it, and I'm looking forward to trying it out resawing some jarrah fenceposts for application in a possible future proper benchtop.

One small question for the forum (no doubt there will be more later): how do you use the 0.5° doover on the angle scale (pic 3)? I can't see how it can give you an accurate 1/2 degree measure...

One slight disappointment with the BAS-350: it comes with the open metal base, but no mention of it in the instructions. It was quite easy to work out which bits went where, but it would have been nice to have been told "assemble the base" at the appropriate stage in assembly. Are you listening Mr Timbecon? Haven't switched it on yet. Will probably get round to that tomorrow, after adjusting the fiddly bits. Any hints from the gurus on how to get started with bandsawing -- especially resawing?

Pic 4: cracked and melted credit card. Will take to at least next year to recover. But that's OK, cos I'm

.

PS Saw no foileys, and no caps. Not saying they weren't there. Just didn't notice any... Do we need a more obvious way of recognising other forumites at these events? Megaphones? Flashing red lights?

**himzol** · 29th July 2005, 10:54 PM

I dropped in for an hour or so today as well, spoke to Neil about a problem I have with a coffee table I'm working on.

I picked up a Sherwood surface grinder, I missed out on these last year and have been kicking myself ever since.

I will be there again tomorrow for a longer stay and to pick up some stuff which I need from Neil, and possibly a few other bits and pieces.

In case anybody is interested I will be the short guy who looks like a kid in a candy store, probably being followed around by a very bored looking teenage boy in a soccer outfit.

Oops, one of the main things to do when setting up the BAS350 is to make sure the upper and lower wheels are co-planer, there are discussions in the bansaw forum about how to do this.

Himzo.

**Tankstand** · 29th July 2005, 11:15 PM

Originally Posted by Zenwood

One small question for the forum (no doubt there will be more later): how do you use the 0.5° doover on the angle scale (pic 3)? I can't see how it can give you an accurate 1/2 degree measure...

The 0.5 degree doover you speak of is a vernier scale!

When you set the scales to Zero, you will note that the two small marks either side of the 0 on the reference scale will lay between the 0 and the 1 degree marks on the main scale.

To achieve say 22.5 degrees, you will adjust the main scale around to 22 degrees and then keep going past until the 22 is lined up with one of the small marks either side of the 0 on the reference scale!

Have I made sense?

Good luck!

Very jealous of your haul mate.

Originally Posted by Zenwood

PS Saw no foileys, and no caps. Not saying they weren't there. Just didn't notice any... Do we need a more obvious way of recognising other forumites at these events? Megaphones? Flashing red lights?

Next year you'll see an ocean of Ubeaut hats!

**Tikki** · 29th July 2005, 11:39 PM

Well, I've just completed my third day at the show ... three more to go!

Today I bought two large pieces of Celery Top Pine, four smaller pieces of Camphor Laurel and an exquisite Waddy Wood turned vase by Tim Skilton

. No doubt I will do a bit more buying when I get to look at the whole show.

Got to meet Beaut and U for the first time, but unfortunately none of the forum guys (except Topha) ... hopefully I will before the end of the show, or next year when you are all more recognizable.

Cheers
Tikki

**Skew ChiDAMN!!** · 29th July 2005, 11:47 PM

Originally Posted by Tankstand

The 0.5 degree doover you speak of is a vernier scale!

When you set the scales to Zero, you will note that the two small marks either side of the 0 on the reference scale will lay between the 0 and the 1 degree marks on the main scale.

To achieve say 22.5 degrees, you will adjust the main scale around to 22 degrees and then keep going past until the 22 is lined up with one of the small marks either side of the 0 on the reference scale!

That's how I'd read a vernier, but... have another look at the pic. If my eyes don't deceive me and my brain's not in overload, aren't the marks to either side of the 0ref aligned with +/-1o? :confused: In your example, setting the main to 22o then moving it to the offset would surely give 23o instead of 22.5o?

**Tankstand** · 30th July 2005, 12:23 AM

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

That's how I'd read a vernier, but... have another look at the pic. If my eyes don't deceive me and my brain's not in overload, aren't the marks to either side of the 0ref aligned with +/-1o? :confused: In your example, setting the main to 22o then moving it to the offset would surely give 23o instead of 22.5o?

Point taken, they don't look to be exactly mid point of the degrees on the main scale!?

Parallax error?

Maybe Zenwood will have to scribe accurate lines?

**zenwood** · 30th July 2005, 02:48 AM

Originally Posted by Tankstand

Point taken, they don't look to be exactly mid point of the degrees on the main scale!?

Parallax error?

Maybe Zenwood will have to scribe accurate lines?

I thought it was some kind of mini-vernier too, but every other vernier scale I've seen has lots more marks spread out over quite a wide range of the straight linear scale for ease of reading. This one has three lines spaced exactly the same as three degrees on the full scale (I don't think there's any parallax happening here). So moving the scale one degree against the vernier, is just one degree on the straight scale.

Is it worth sending an email to Timbecon? (No instructions come with this thing either.)

**kiwigeo** · 30th July 2005, 04:21 AM

Zen..thanks for the run down on the show. Reading same was the next best thing to being there. You probably would have bumped into me if I wasnt stuck out here at work. Kicking myself for not arranging my work schedule more carefully.

Interesting notes on Phil Ashby being at the MIK stand. When I was at MIK a few weeks back the guy who served me told me that Phil had left MIK and was doing something out on his own. Did you end up buying an Ashby Strop? I use one and its hot stuff for getting rid of the burr on the back of blades after theyve been over the stones.

My workshop close to being open for visitors in a few months....will let you know when it happens and get you and some of the other Adelaide woodies around for an afternoon.

Cheers Martin

**Jack E** · 30th July 2005, 07:43 AM

Perhaps it is not a vernier but has the three lines to reduce parallax error.

**Jack E** · 30th July 2005, 07:44 AM

Originally Posted by himzol

I picked up a Sherwood surface grinder, I missed out on these last year and have been kicking myself ever since.

How much did you get the surface grinder for?

Cheers, Jack

**himzol** · 30th July 2005, 08:45 AM

How much did you get the surface grinder for?

$299 from timbercon, this is the same price they have them for at the moment, I guess I saved on the freight it would have cost me from WA.

cheers,

Himzo.

**zenwood** · 30th July 2005, 09:37 AM

Originally Posted by kiwigeo

Did you end up buying an Ashby Strop?

No, budget was already in melt-down

, but it's now on the wish-list, along with water- and arkansas stones.

My workshop close to being open for visitors in a few months....will let you know when it happens and get you and some of the other Adelaide woodies around for an afternoon.

Sounds great, m8. Looking forward to it.

**oges** · 30th July 2005, 09:45 AM

I will be over a next years show .. the Australian Scroll Saw Network and Woodgroup SA are running a scrollsaw event in conjunction with the Adelaide WWW show ... hope to meet some of you then.

I must remember to take my cap..

**Ian007** · 30th July 2005, 10:00 AM

Originally Posted by kiwigeo

Zen..thanks for the run down on the show. Reading same was the next best thing to being there. You probably would have bumped into me if I wasnt stuck out here at work. Kicking myself for not arranging my work schedule more carefully.

Interesting notes on Phil Ashby being at the MIK stand. When I was at MIK a few weeks back the guy who served me told me that Phil had left MIK and was doing something out on his own. Did you end up buying an Ashby Strop? I use one and its hot stuff for getting rid of the burr on the back of blades after theyve been over the stones.

My workshop close to being open for visitors in a few months....will let you know when it happens and get you and some of the other Adelaide woodies around for an afternoon.

Cheers Martin

Martin, just going to the show today and read the above ,damm why did i send the wife to melbourne with my Camera. I would have taken lots of show pics and posted them just for you.....

As for Master sharp Phil Ashby being on the Mik stand, he was doing demos on the Terry Gordon timber planes. Terry often displayes on the Mik stand , and didnt come to Adelaide so got Phil to do his demo's.
Phil was going to do all the show demos for Lie-Nielsen but that didnt work out so I hear. He only did the Brissy show for them.

An Arvo in the shed is fairly common around hear but not usally an Arvo in somebody elses, I will Take one ticket please

Cheers Ian

**junkboy999** · 30th July 2005, 10:59 AM

Originally Posted by Tankstand

Point taken, they don't look to be exactly mid point of the degrees on the main scale!?

Parallax error?

Maybe Zenwood will have to scribe accurate lines?

Hey Zen

There are 3 explanations for your scale.
1. The 10 year old girl working in the sweatshop painted it on wrong.

2. The maker of the scale figured it was easyer to manual set in a .5 using 3 lines instead of just one, not knowing what a ture vernier scals looked like. ( most vernier scales have more the one line to the left and rigt of zero all in .5 steps)

3. ( I take it that the scale in the pic is on a miter bar type guage, or this will not apply ) look for some type of an adjustment besides ZERO. I own an Incra with a scale like your picture (-1, 0, +1) and it only has 1.0 settings for every angle. to get a .5 I loosen the push handle and pull it off and replace it in an oval hole in my miter. This alows me to "Rack" the whole miter .5 to the right, if cutting on the left of blade or .5 to the right (if on left side) because of the ovel. Now when I have 22.0 set I really have 22.5 and the line of the right of zero lines up. kinda strange but it works.

4. No one expects the spanish Inquisition

Sorry There are 4 explanations for your scale

I hope this helps

Love you BSB

you should get some good use out of it

P.S. Parallax error only applys when you have a pointer floating above a scale or behind a scale

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