Thread: Dovetail practice - WIP

Looking good.

A dovetailed carcass, and especially the irregularity of hand-cut dovetails, really has a sense of quality about it.

Keep the photos coming.

Des

Hear hear. Great thread javali.

Thanks all.

Zenwood: Thanks for the comment. The dovetails are more like 30 degrees but it is probably still too steep. I just hope that the load on these joints will not be too heavy.

More progress:

I tried smoothing the box and got too much tear out. The scraper seems to be doing fine, however some of the tearouts on the top are far to deep to be cleaned, and will have to stay. Next time I have to remember to work on hidden surfaces first. (pic 1)

The drawer fronts are trimmed to size. I still have to clean them a bit. (pics 2, 3 and 4)

I also made a finish sample board (pic 5) for SWMBO to chose what she wants. The finish will be a light coat of BLO, zillion of orange shellac, EEE and Traditional Wax.

That's really nice Javal

Don't show it off too much or everyone will want one.

Studley

Stupid thought here, but if your not happy with the top, have you thought about flipping the unit and the top becoming the base?

Thanks guys.

Studley, everyone can pick a ticket and wait for their numbers to be called.

Dj, thanks for the suggestion. I thought about it for an hour and could not come up with any reason not to until I flipped the carcass over. It does not work because the drawers have to be on the runners.

Number 8 for me

Great thread Javali - been glued to the screen watching you work through this build.

cheers
Wendy

Did the wood whisper something about the first seven being no good Wendy?

Studley

8 is my favourite number, 7 comes a very close second

Some progress:

Finished the carcass (pic 1). It still needs some EEE, but Iwill do that just before delivery.

Also finished dimensioning the sides and backs of the drawers at the top row. (pics 2 and 3).

Pic 4 shows the set-up for cutting the grooves for the bottom. It is just a fence nailed to a piece of scrap, and a stop made of a nail. The piece to be grooved is held against the fence. I later replaced the stop with one made of timber. The nail seems to mark the end of the timber.

I am using a Carter C40 to cut the groove. It is a copy of the Record 040, which net.wisdom claims that you wouldn't want to have one. Given that the work is much lighter than cutting rebates in "sash fillister" mode, the fence does not seem to spin on the rod, and even if it does, filing a small flat at the top of the rod will take care of that. The main advantage of a single rod fence is that there is no need to worry about the fence being parallel to the body. It may be a bit harder to attach a larger timber fence to the plane, but this does not seem to be necessary for cutting grooves for drawer bottoms.

I have to say... As darkside goes I'm pretty impressed Jav

Excellent thread and excellent work.

One of the best tutorials we've had for a while, jav. Greenie launched!