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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    26

    Default Hall Table Restoration

    Hi all,

    Recently spent some time restoring this hall table. When i got it it was covered in a cedar coloured paint. Must have been used to fill the grain. The paint was so badly engrained, all attempts to use steel wool, metho etc failed and I was forced sacrifice the patina and sand the whole thing back to a fresh layer of grain.

    The rails and beading i had to replace altogether (using cedar lengths) but the legs are original. It also had some nail holes at the very back of the top, I suspect it may have originally had a backing board fixed to it. Technically not a proper restoration but was good experience all the same.

    Used hard shellac to fill the grain and finish the top - a very lengthy process but worth every minute/week/month. White shellac on the rest of it. Buffed using EEE and 6000 grit festool cut and polish combined with a ROS. 2 coats of traditional wax followed.

    I was told it was Cedar, but, when sanding the top it seemed to lack the 'rich' smell of cedar, and while soft, it didn't seem as soft as other old cedar pieces I've worked with. Also seem a smidge darker. The old man thought it may be Mahogany, or something else, hence the cedar coloured paint covering the real timber? Thoughts anyone?

    Cheers,
    Damen

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Tolmie - Victoria
    Age
    68
    Posts
    4,010

    Default

    Not sure about the timber but you have done a fine job.
    - Wood Borer

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    53
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    856

    Default

    Nice work Ribbet, how did you apply the shellac and how many coats did that top take?


    Thanks
    Joez

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Jimboomba Qld.
    Age
    69
    Posts
    594

    Default

    Hi Ribbit,

    Australian Cedar my guess 2nd half of the 1800's.

    Job well done. Congratulations. One of the favorite in the 50's and 60's was to nail a sheet of lino over the top of them to make them look more modern. How this have changed.


    Cheers


    Steve
    Discover your Passion and Patience follows.
    www.fineboxes.com.au

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Peakhurst
    Age
    67
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    1,173

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ribbet View Post

    Technically not a proper restoration but was good experience all the same.

    Damen
    Damen,

    I wouldn't worry about that. Just call it a 'rebuild', just looks like the day it was originally made. Will now probably last a couple of hundred years more.

    Job beautifully done. Hope you enjoy it 'cause I did.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    497

    Default

    Yep I agree, I think it looks more like Cedar than Mahogany. However, a superb finish achieved. Your should be proud of your efforts.

    Cedar is a funny sort of timber as it does seem to absorb paint, I know from much experience. However, at the same time you have to wonder what on earth they were thinking in painting it. We currently are stripping by hand all the paint of the cedar joinery in our 1824 country house. Definitely a labour of love but damned hard work. So I know what you have been through.

    The other thing I have found over the years is the difference in colour of cedar once stripped, from light browns to deep dark red. The one thing I believe in restoring cedar is not to use stains but simply rely on the shellac to bring out the natural colour and the grain. Obviously the more shellac applied and finely cut back the deeper the finish. Dave

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by joez View Post
    Nice work Ribbet, how did you apply the shellac and how many coats did that top take?


    Thanks
    Joez
    Thaanks Joez. I filled the top with 1:1 ratio of HS. I painted on each coat and left to dry for a couple of days. Then used 320grit, a block and Pure gum Turps to sand back. I sanded as methodically as possible to keep the surface as flat as possible. In the past I've used a ROS for this initial stage then but found the surface wouldn't stay flat enough, so went back to good old elbow grease and long, even sanding strokes. It took about 5 or 6 coats of 1:1 before the grain had filled. After this stage I french polished it with a rubber and about a 1:4 ratio of HS and sanding at 600grit after every 6th coat. After about 12 or 18 coats I was happy with the result and buffed with the ROS.

    I'm still learning to french polish but I'm finding that sanding between coats is a vital key. Also having the surface planed and flat from the beginning saves hours of time during the polishing stages.

    Cheers,
    Damen

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Horsecroft88 View Post
    Yep I agree, I think it looks more like Cedar than Mahogany. However, a superb finish achieved. Your should be proud of your efforts.

    Cedar is a funny sort of timber as it does seem to absorb paint, I know from much experience. However, at the same time you have to wonder what on earth they were thinking in painting it. We currently are stripping by hand all the paint of the cedar joinery in our 1824 country house. Definitely a labour of love but damned hard work. So I know what you have been through.

    The other thing I have found over the years is the difference in colour of cedar once stripped, from light browns to deep dark red. The one thing I believe in restoring cedar is not to use stains but simply rely on the shellac to bring out the natural colour and the grain. Obviously the more shellac applied and finely cut back the deeper the finish. Dave
    Thanks Dave. Wow sounds like a challenge with all that cedar joinery! I'd imagine it will look glorious once complete.

    I picked up some Victorian cedar corbels at a garage sale last year that were covered in thick paint. It turns out there was about 4 layers of paint on them, and it took weeks of stripping using some paint on gel stripper to gradually get it all off. Agreed, what were they thinking! Thought they were a bargain for $20 at the time, but if only i knew the hours of labour to follow!

    Also agreed, shellac is brilliant stuff, it was the first finish i was introduced to and now everything else just doesn't seem to compete with it.
    Cheers,
    Damen

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    t
    Posts
    961

    Default

    The reason cedar was stained a lot is because no 2 cedar trees are same colour, some are very dark chocolatley brown others are golden red. A light staining helps even out the differences.
    .

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Laurieton
    Posts
    2,251

    Default

    Job well done . Do you have any photos before you put the finish on.
    Bob

    "If a man is after money, he's money mad; if he keeps it, he's a capitalist; if he spends it, he's a playboy; if he doesn't get it, he's a never-do-well; if he doesn't try to get it, he lacks ambition. If he gets it without working for it; he's a parasite; and if he accumulates it after a life time of hard work, people call him a fool who never got anything out of life."
    - Vic Oliver

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobR View Post
    Job well done . Do you have any photos before you put the finish on.
    I don't think i did. I was working on it for about 4 months on and off and I can't actually remember if I took photos. Would've been great to see a before and after shot!

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