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  1. #1
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    Default Myrtle Kitchen Stools

    A pair of kitchen stools I recently completed from Tas. Myrtle. At one stage I was considering leaving the back off & just having the two supports, as you tend not to lean back on a stool anyway.

    I'm still not sure whether I should have done it that way, but SWMBO insisted the backs looked better and who am I to argue.
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  3. #2
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    Very very nice.

    Are you sure its Myrtle? Just look different from the Myrtle that I have ( I have both the South and The North Tass type. )

    Al

  4. #3
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    Alex,

    They look very handsome. However, some of us are afflicted with bony backsides - which is why I made my rocker with an upholstered rather than a solid-wood seat.

    Rocker

  5. #4
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    Alex

    Great looking stools, Well done

    Al
    Regards
    Al .

    You don't know, what you don't know, until you know it.

  6. #5
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    I like. Great work. Oh, and SWAMBO was right!

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #6
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    Default

    Thanks all. Ozwinner, they are myrtle, but it's very plain compared to other examples I've seen - only one tiny trace of spalting. Also, the pic of the single stool makes it look much darker than it really is.
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  8. #7
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    Alex,

    Very nice indeed.

    How did you contour the seats?

    - Wood Borer

  9. #8
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    Al(Oz),
    Looks like myrtle to me. Our Tasmanian myrtle can vary immensely in colour from the rich red, through the pinks and straw colours, I even had a log delivered of pure white myrtle.
    The myrtle you got from me on your visit in February looks a little different due to the "flame" feature in it. Then of course there is tiger myrtle with its stripes/flecks of black through it, you tend to find that tiger myrtle is generally towards the pink-red colouring.

    Alex,
    Very nice.

    regards

    Kev M

  10. #9
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    Default

    Woodborer: I contoured the seats using a convex spokeshave and scraper. The contouring isn't very deep - just enough to show. The backs are curved - I cut kerfs on each side to the correct depths scaled from a drawing, then chiselled out between the kerfs, then smoothed with spokeshaves, belt sander, plane and scraper.
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  11. #10
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    Alex,

    Fantastic.

    I was hoping that was what you were going to say. I haven't done contouring in a chair before but I will very soon. What brand of spokeshave do you use?

    My two spokeshaves are convex and straight but both have their blades parallel to the surface. I suspect the one you use has a curved blade and a curved sole to suit.

    - Wood Borer

  12. #11
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    Default

    I like them as well, how many hours hand work per chair?
    woody U.K.

    "Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln

  13. #12
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wood Borer
    Alex,

    Fantastic.

    I was hoping that was what you were going to say. I haven't done contouring in a chair before but I will very soon. What brand of spokeshave do you use?

    My two spokeshaves are convex and straight but both have their blades parallel to the surface. I suspect the one you use has a curved blade and a curved sole to suit.

    - Wood Borer
    The two spokeshaves I used were a Kunz KU 50, which has a curved blade & sole, and the straight Record A151. To do the seat, I used the Kunz in a sort of circular motion, with one end more or les still and the other one sweepin in a circle. As you nearthe edge of the shaping, you need to be very careful. Don't try to take a lot off in one go, and keep the blade sharp! After you've shaped it with the spokeshave, sharpen up the curved scraper and go to work with it, then start sanding at about 150 grit and work up.

    For a previous chair I considered using an Arbortech, but did some test drives and didn't really feel confident. But, if you were going to shape the seat deeper, it would be worth learning to drive one I think. Also, for your first shaped chair, try using something like Xylocarpus or other timber that carves easily.
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  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jow104
    I like them as well, how many hours hand work per chair?
    Thanks Jow. I always say I'm going to keep track of my time, but for home projects I never seem to. The most time consuming parts were the seats & backs, as you'd expect.

    Rounding the legs and seats didn't take too long. I took the bulk off with a 45* mitre router bit, then shaped them with the straight spokeshave, a coarse file and lots of sanding.

    I'm hoping to write it up properly with some construction photos, so will post here when I do.
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  15. #14
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    Jan 2003
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    Rosebud Vict AUS
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    Default

    A handsome pair of stools. The fact that you could make two the same speaks volumes! The only style comment I would make is that if they were mine, I would have dimminished the thickness of the backs by 20% and maybe also the legs as this would have enhanced the lovely curvature. By the way, I am the proud posessor of a Veritas low angle spokeshave and I love it. Still no good for getting into those stool seats though!

  16. #15
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    Jacko, I think you're right about the thickness of the backs. Also, the stretcher at the bottom doesn't look right, but I'm not sure what else I could have done. I suppose I could have left it off all together - it's not necessary from a structural point of view - but it needed something there.
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