Thread: Shoin shoji makeover

Stunning work Des!!

A definite asset for your home.

Thanks Guys.

Peter, it took about two weeks of productive work. The time-consuming part was the asa-no-ha. Not particularly difficult, but just so many pieces to cut, plane and fit.

The hardest part was trying to work out how best to fit it into the existing window frame as naturally as possible without it looking as though it was just "tacked on". The grooves for the shoji (in the region where I learnt) are set dimensions (7, 4, 7 bu - or close enough to 21, 12, 21 mm), and this had it sticking out from the existing frame and wall quite a bit. I've started a set of four for another larger window with a slightly different pattern, and with a different type of window frame, the fitting is also proving to be a pain in the backside. This is all part of the learning curve, because up in Japan, a lot of our work was on old temples, and buildings that the carpentry students helped to build, and they did all the framing work for the shoji doors/windows.

Once I'm satisfied with how they are fitted, then I'll start to take on work. This way I can keep all my initial framing "stuff-ups" to myself .

Des

Originally Posted by Des.K.

TThe grooves for the shoji (in the region where I learnt) are set dimensions (7, 4, 7 bu - or close enough to 21, 12, 21 mm),

Brilliant Des when you say 21,12, 21mm is that 21mm horizontal and vertical and 12mm at 45 deg? Also, im assuming the fit is just locked in but joins and glue.

Thanks Lignum

I read that part again, and it is as clear as mud. Sorry. In this case the two shoji windows slide in two grooves. The grooves are 21 mm wide, and 12 mm apart (the top grooves are generally about 15-16 mm deep, and the bottom around 3 mm). With the rebates in the rails and stiles, this gives about a 3 mm clearance between the two shoji as they slide past each other. Depending on the region, these dimensions can vary, as can the width and thickness of the stiles, and the design of the rails and how they are joined to the stiles. Hope that's made things a bit clearer.


Des

Very clear One question, what are the dimentions of the horizontal and vertical and the smaller 45 deg pieces. Also, what do you think of Kiri as timber for a screen. Did the Japanese use it at all?

The picture might help. The main vertical and horizontal kumiko are 4.75 mm wide, the asa-no-ha pieces are 3.0 mm wide. The diagonal pieces are 67.1 mm (planed to fit - 90° each end), the two pieces coming out from the diagonal is actually a single piece sawn almost all the way through then bent at the cut (33.7 mm either side - 45° each end), and the locking piece that fits into the opening and holds it all together is 20.1 mm (90° one end and 60° the other). I use a small touch of glue (white PVA) on the ends of the cut piece, but it's not really necessary. The locking piece holds it all together securely.

Kiri (paulownia) is used more for furniture etc. than shoji screens. I've never used it but apparently it's quite a well-behaved timber, but very light without a great deal of strength.

Des

Des, have a thought about Celery Top Pine from Tasmania. It is reputedlt the most stable timber on earth once Dried.

Thanks artme. Always open to timber suggestions. I've got a cube of kauri which looks quite promising (not all usable but a fair percentage seems to be OK) once that stockpile is reduced a bit I'll hunt down some celery top pine and see how that goes.

Des

Des, I would love you to do a mini WIP a small 30cm sq panel it would be awesome

Wonderful stuff.

How rigid is the screen, especially when leaned upon?

Zelk

Thanks Zelk

The screen is quite rigid because of the interconnecting kumiko, but I certainly wouldn't lean on it.

Des