Thread: A Very Slow WIP.....(Pool Cue)

Very nice never new thats how they where made.

Very nice indeed !!

You mentioned a drum sander for making the thin pieces of timber - can I ask what make/model you have??

I'm curious to know if any hobbyist drum sander will produce the quality of veneers that you seem to be getting.

Looking forward to seeing the finished cue.

^^ Regarding the Thickness Sander...

While I always think it is a good adage to buy the best tools you can afford, at the time I could only afford the cheapest sander I could find.

So I purchased a Sherwood, from our friends at Timbecon.

It seems to have been working fairly well for what I do, and gives fairly good results as long as you keep the sandpaper clean from clogging, and take small passes.

Purpleheart - thanks for the info re. drum sander. I hadn''t looked at the Timbecon models, so will have a gander.

Like you, I'd be starting at the cheap end of drum sanders. I just want to know how far up the 'food chain' one has to go to get reasonable qualty results.

Cheers

With the forearm of the cue, and the butt section of the cue under control, I have to start work on the handle section.

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

Purpleheart - thanks for the info re. drum sander. I hadn''t looked at the Timbecon models, so will have a gander.

Like you, I'd be starting at the cheap end of drum sanders. I just want to know how far up the 'food chain' one has to go to get reasonable qualty results.

Cheers

I guess it depends what you want to do. The strips I sand are 40mm wide, and I usually put them through one at a time. So while the machine says it might finish sand timber (oh..off the top of my head) 600mm wide {probably wider} [in two passes] I don't think I would like to push it that hard for too long.

But for my work, as I said, it's doing the job well.

I'd rarely put boards wider than maybe 120mm through a drum sander (for box making), and they would be reasonably flat coming off my jointer/thicknesser. I can take the time to use lots of light passes to sneak up on the final thickness.

That's why I'm thinking one of the lighter duty machines will do the job, but with all the models that only support the drum on one side I''m wondering how uniform the boards would come out across their width. It seems to me that it wouldn't take much force to move the drum out of parallel with the table/base of the machine.

Judging by the veneers you are producing, that isn't a problem !

It's crazy, but it takes heaps less time for me to shoot a video, and upload it to youtube, than it does for me to upload photos to this forum, or even to a photo hosting site (eg - photobucket).

Here are a couple more links to the work in progress.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwA4uVf_Mis]YouTube - Running the Boring Bar in.MP4[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLinzLjQ5R8]YouTube - Handle Pieces for Future Work.MP4[/ame]

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

I'd rarely put boards wider than maybe 120mm through a drum sander (for box making), and they would be reasonably flat coming off my jointer/thicknesser. I can take the time to use lots of light passes to sneak up on the final thickness.

That's why I'm thinking one of the lighter duty machines will do the job, but with all the models that only support the drum on one side I''m wondering how uniform the boards would come out across their width. It seems to me that it wouldn't take much force to move the drum out of parallel with the table/base of the machine.

Judging by the veneers you are producing, that isn't a problem !

Mine actually has a support on the "other" side of the machine, that can be removed if you wish.

All my work fits through the machine without removing it though, and I loosen the screw, lower the drum, tighten the screw, put the workpiece through......and repeat.

Pieces of the size you describe would fit through well.

Cheers.