Thread: Reality Check

All the timber is coming from the sawmill where I work. We are the cheapest around and we've proved it. The weather boards are $7 a metre

Originally Posted by echnidna

F17 is over the top, which is why its high priced.

At work we have Fence Grade, Building Grade and Select Grade. Anything that falls into building grade gets called F17. It's not definite F17

Originally Posted by jackliveshere

Are you planning to build this yourself mate? From what I gathered you are - any new construction work over the value of $1100 needs to be licensed. Easiest way would be to use someone's builders number - hard bit is finding someone willing to do so. Dunno if you or someone you know is licensed, just thought I'd bring it up.

Yep I'll be building it myself with the help of Dad and any forum members who wish to help out
Hmm...I just met a builder, name's Jack and he lives in Townsville. Maybe I can use his builders number

Originally Posted by jackliveshere

For overall costs, I reckon there'd be a few more areas to look at. I know you've costed the bulk of the timber and framing materials, but there is also plenty of other costs involved. For example:
- Machine for post holes (would be a dog digging these by hand) True, How much do you reckon half a days hire is?
- Concrete for posts
- Fixings - plenty of these....things like bolts for framing, nails for cladding, roof screws, etc
- Windows I'll be putting in alot of them
- Access doors
- Electrical (power points, lights, etc)
- Couldn't see anything about internal linings - are you doing that or just leaving exposed frame? Exposed frame
- Drafting fees
- Council fees
- Licensing/BSA fees. How much do you reckon these'll be?

- Painting (assuming you'll paint the outside) Nup, I'm after the natural look.
- steps up to floor (anything 190mm above natural ground level will require additional steps)

That's a couple of areas off the top of my head that you'll need to look at to get an idea of total cost of the shed.

I'll second what Echnidna about the weatherboard cladding - where are you getting that pricing from? I did a roughie calculation based on using Hardiplank cladding and was about $1500 for the whole shed. Hey about what about something like yellow tongue sheeting for your floor? Would be something like $400-500 instead of $1137 for your hardwood.

Also, make sure that the timber you get is appropriately termite treated as required by BCA & Australian Standards. That is H4 treated for your stumps in the ground, then H2 & H3 treated for the rest of your structural members. Though there are a whole swag of naturally resistant timbers listed in Appendix C of AS3660.1 so if you used them you'll probably be right.

Hardiplank isn't the look I want, same for the yellow tongue floor.

If I use the timbers on the list do I still have to treat them?

Originally Posted by weisyboy

i think you should shop around for better prices.

• Posts 150x150x1500 x 15 = 22.5m @ 46.50 = $1046.25
• Bearers 125x75x3000 x 12 = 36m @ 12.75 = $459
• Floor Joists 125x50x3000 x 48 = 144m @ 7.50 = $1080
• Flooring 100x25x12000 x 30 = 360m @ 2.75 = $990
• Wall Plates 100x50x36000 x 2 = 72m @ 5.50 = $412.50
• Studs 100x38x2.4x 60 =144m @ 5.25 = $756
• Weatherboards 36 m x 19 = 684m @ 4.68= $3201.12 $3734.64
• Rafters 150x50x4000 x 40 = 160m @ 9.25 = $1480
• Ceiling Joists 150x50x6000 x20 =120m @ 9.25 = $1110
• Ridge Board 150x50x12000 x 1 = 12m @ 9.25 = $111
• Battens 75x38x12000 x 12 =144m @ 4 = $576
• Timber: $11755.39

And where did you get those prices from?

thats what i see hardwood for and what most other mills charge when u get out of brisbane.

you can easily get 175mm x 25mm x 6mm wheatherboards under $5.

all hardwood must be graded and structural grade must be graded to AS2082. you cant just have construction grade and call it F17 it must be graded and sold in each grade unless you are selling ungraded timber. structural hardwood can grade anyware from F5 to F34 depending on species.

you can get a list of timbers with there class listed i did have it but i cant find it at present anyone know witch one it is?
your work should have it.

I forgot to add the bulk discount 5% or so, plus employee discount (whatever the boss gives me)

Where exactly Carl?

those prices are my list prices. no discounts.

sawmills with similar pricing well muckets sawmill at ladely for one.

I'd like a copy of those price lists

i can send u my price list and give muckets a call for theres and theyl fax it to u.

According to "Barry's introduction to construction of buildings" Collar roofs (rooves?) can be a maximum span of 4.5m. Slight problem there

What about using some recycled timber? Caylamax at Brendale has decent stock, its docked, denailed and sorted, and they have decent quantities. If you email them the list you put together they'll tell you what they've got and give you a price.

Couple of points FC.

# Don't think 900 instead of 600 spacings is wise or allowable.

# Appreciate your desire for aesthetic appeal but you also need to be practical.Yellow tongue for the flooring is a great idea and is much less time consuming to put down.

# Recycled timber may be a possibility but you will need to carefully check costs and whether the codes and authorities allow its use. Remember that it is also much harder and you would have to use a nail gun - actually a good idea anyway.

# If you decided to go with colourbond cladding you would then have to insulate, although you might want to do that anyway.

I've looked through span tables and have revised my list

• Posts 100x100 $469
• Bearers 200x75 $887
• Joists 125x50 $1194
• Plates 100x75 $818
• Studs 100x38 $864
• Door Lintel 100x50 $6
• Window Lintels 125x50 $12 each
• Double Door Lintel 150x50 $12
• Rafters 125x38 $560
• Collar Ties 100x38 $192
• Ridgeboard 175x25 $72
• Flooring 100x25 $2160
• Weather Beards 175x25 $3192

$4744 for the frame
$6904 inc. Floor
$10096 inc. Weather beards

15 posts in a 5x3 configuration
3 bearers running across 5 posts each
Joists and Studs at 600mm centres
Rafters at 1200mm centres

If the following is correct:
Where rafters or trusses are supported directly over studs, the top plate may be the same size as the common studs in the same wall.
Then the top plate can be 100x38, coming to a total of $172 instead of $409
And if the following is correct:
Where wall studs are directly in line with the floor joists, the bottom plate may be 75x38.
Then the bottom plate can be 100x38 (correct?) and will save me another $237

I'm happy with $4744 for the frame, I just need to find cheap flooring and cheap weather beards. Recycled flooring is fine, I'll have a look at the timber recyclers in town.
If I can get the weather beards for $2000 then I'll be all smiles

Note: The updated prices are bulk price, the previous ones were retail price.
I worked out the weatherboard price taking into account there'll be no boards over the windows and doors.

remember you will have to order more wheatherboards than u need as you will have ofcuts thet are not long enough to use.

same goes for teh framing timber unless u get it all in exactyl the right length and make sure you make no mistakes you will have to order slightly over length and extra peices.


a cheeper way to do it is to get some logs and get tehm cut you will come in under half the cost. logs are not hard to find especialy if you offer a bit of cash or firewood.

Originally Posted by funkychicken

According to "Barry's introduction to construction of buildings" Collar roofs (rooves?) can be a maximum span of 4.5m. Slight problem there

I understand that is NOT an Australian book.
The Europeans and Yanks have snow roof loads to contend with so their methods and spans do not apply to australia
Don't use a non aussie book.


Collar ties must be installed in the centre third of the rafter span.
Thickness to be same as the common rafters.
Min size 100 x 38 or 75 x 50 are stipulated for collar tie spans up to 4200
and 125 x 38 or 100 x 50 over 4200 collar tie span.
So a 4200 collar tie span with the tie placed at limit of the lower third of span means the total combined roof span is 6300mm.

Have a look at this pdf
From the Timber Development Assoc Of S.A.

Note the Oz standards apply nationwide.
Generally the variables are windloads, snow loads if in the southern alps etc.
But the same basic plans apply Oz wide.

Btw, carports, pergolas and garages may use smaller sections than houses, but I usually use the house framing tables.

So I've got the frame settled, I need to find cheaper flooring and weatherboards.
Then what do I do? I suppose I'll have to go through council, can someone explain what needs to be done there?