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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,818

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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Although it does not glue well it can be bent without heating and cut it with a hole saw, tin snips and pop-rivetted it like sheetmetal. It's much more vibration resistant than perspex. Only problem is availability and price!
    Well it looks like I have to take the glue comment back, I just tried taking apart a small (100 x 100 x 50 mm) box made out of polycarbonate panels siliconed together with 12.5 mm lapped joints - I though it would be easy and is was quite a bit hrder than I thought. I also followed scooters lead and it does appear that there are some other serious solvent glues available for this stuff.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Pakenham, outer Melb SE suburb, Vic
    Age
    55
    Posts
    4,158

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    Dredged from the back of the mind, I think that methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) (sp.?) is suitable for solvent welding, but don't quote me.

    This is the same chemical as used in the primer, and the glue, for PVC plumbing pipes. Haven't tried it, but worth a go...

    Not real good for you, though, so use in well ventilated area, blah blah


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Peakhurst, N.S.W
    Age
    59
    Posts
    94

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    If memory serve me ( and that's far from guaranteed these days...) I believe that Chloroform "welds" perspex types of plastic. Just make sure you use it in a well ventilated area or you could risk kidnapping yourself...


    Scott in Peakhurst.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Kempsey NSW
    Age
    66
    Posts
    1,140

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    Well don't I feel ripped off.
    I went to a plastics supplier in West Gosford and they had a lot of scrap. But just tonight I was looking through what is left of my purchases and a strip of that white breadboard stuff about 350mm long 25mm wide and maybe 10mm thick cost me $1. That was the cheapest!a piece 250x150x10 was $5.
    I was happy and was going to recommend that company, but not now.
    Cheers
    Jim

    "I see dumb peope!"

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Katherine ,Northern Territory
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,977

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    Quote Originally Posted by har616 View Post
    Big shed,

    Good suggestions. I sometimes forget about the yellowpages on the internet however the search capability seems to be much better now than when I last used it.

    The vacuum pumps are more difficult. I had already googled this in a variety of ways however I was wanting a pump suitable for a woodworking application and it is not apparent from the results of the search as to whether they are suitable. Most of the results relate to high vacuum or industrial applications.

    I had hoped that someone within the forum had more specific knowledge. Previous threads directed me to businesses that no longer appear to exist.

    Even searching for suppliers of plastic materials is difficult - almost all of the organisations I scanned appear to be fabricators rather then retailers of small amounts of product. Cadging a few bits of acrylic or perspex or polycarbonate wasn't going to solve the adhesive problem and unfortunately "plastics" is such a generic term that I wasn't letting me identify good options.

    Once again I had thought that others would have tried to use these materials for similar applications and there would possibly be a body of knowledge that would simplfy my search.

    I have some good suggestions above and will follow through - it is just going to take a bit more time than I had hoped.

    Terry

    I have done some vacuforming at home ,mainly making parts for model aircraft .
    My vacuum pump is an old fridge compressor ,I just use the suction side to pull a vacuum in a old modified dry chemical fire extinguisher ,then using a valve draw the
    plastic into the mould or over the form after heating it.
    Mine is on a small scale but it works ok for my purposes.
    I managed to make some acrylic boxes by making a wooden mould , heating the acrylic sheet in an old oven until it sagged and then sucked it into the mould.

    Some links I have bookmarked

    http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=169
    http://www.crclarke.co.uk/Products/LineImg/1220.htm
    http://designability.com.au/catalogue/
    http://www.amiles.com.au/stripheater.htm
    http://www.cityplastics.com.au/acrylic.html

    Whilst most are not here in Oz there is some good information on the pages
    Hope this helps
    Kev
    "Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend ,inside a dog it's too dark to read"
    Groucho Marx

  7. #21
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Pakenham, outer Melb SE suburb, Vic
    Age
    55
    Posts
    4,158

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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodlee View Post
    My vacuum pump is an old fridge compressor ,I just use the suction side to pull a vacuum in a old modified dry chemical fire extinguisher ,then using a valve draw the
    plastic into the mould or over the form after heating it.
    Mine is on a small scale but it works ok for my purposes.
    I managed to make some acrylic boxes by making a wooden mould , heating the acrylic sheet in an old oven until it sagged and then sucked it into the mould.

    This sounds really interesting, Kev, would be great if you have time, to put up a thread with some more details & some pics, both on the vacuum setup and how you made the boxes.

    I had thought about using a fridge vacuum pump for a vacuum chuck on the lathe, but seeing as you are using the old fire extinguisher as a "receiver", sort of the opposite of an air compressor by the sounds, I'm assuming the pump is capable of pulling a fair vacuum but is fairly slow?


    Cheers................Sean


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    4

    Default

    A glue in the UK is called "Plastick" and is a mixture of solvents the most useful being tetrahydrofuran. Tetrahydrofuran is used with others for swimming pool pipe welding.

    PETG is a tough plastic, not as tough as polycarbonate, but miles better than acrylic.

    Be careful when moulding plastics, it is VERY difficult to keep the toughness properties, and if it's a serious guard you're making, you might need it. Heat treatment to anneal it is difficult, and time consuming. Cut sheet and cold bends are the way to go if possible.

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