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28th October 2007, 06:45 PM #16.
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Well it looks like I have to take the glue comment back, I just tried taking apart a small (100 x 100 x 50 mm) box made out of polycarbonate panels siliconed together with 12.5 mm lapped joints - I though it would be easy and is was quite a bit hrder than I thought. I also followed scooters lead and it does appear that there are some other serious solvent glues available for this stuff.
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28th October 2007 06:45 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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28th October 2007, 08:48 PM #17
Dredged from the back of the mind, I think that methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) (sp.?) is suitable for solvent welding, but don't quote me.
This is the same chemical as used in the primer, and the glue, for PVC plumbing pipes. Haven't tried it, but worth a go...
Not real good for you, though, so use in well ventilated area, blah blah
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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29th October 2007, 06:53 AM #18
If memory serve me ( and that's far from guaranteed these days...) I believe that Chloroform "welds" perspex types of plastic. Just make sure you use it in a well ventilated area or you could risk kidnapping yourself...
Scott in Peakhurst.
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29th October 2007, 09:30 PM #19
Well don't I feel ripped off.
I went to a plastics supplier in West Gosford and they had a lot of scrap. But just tonight I was looking through what is left of my purchases and a strip of that white breadboard stuff about 350mm long 25mm wide and maybe 10mm thick cost me $1. That was the cheapest!a piece 250x150x10 was $5.
I was happy and was going to recommend that company, but not now.Cheers
Jim
"I see dumb peope!"
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29th October 2007, 11:54 PM #20
I have done some vacuforming at home ,mainly making parts for model aircraft .
My vacuum pump is an old fridge compressor ,I just use the suction side to pull a vacuum in a old modified dry chemical fire extinguisher ,then using a valve draw the
plastic into the mould or over the form after heating it.
Mine is on a small scale but it works ok for my purposes.
I managed to make some acrylic boxes by making a wooden mould , heating the acrylic sheet in an old oven until it sagged and then sucked it into the mould.
Some links I have bookmarked
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=169
http://www.crclarke.co.uk/Products/LineImg/1220.htm
http://designability.com.au/catalogue/
http://www.amiles.com.au/stripheater.htm
http://www.cityplastics.com.au/acrylic.html
Whilst most are not here in Oz there is some good information on the pages
Hope this helps
Kev"Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend ,inside a dog it's too dark to read"
Groucho Marx
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30th October 2007, 05:38 PM #21
This sounds really interesting, Kev, would be great if you have time, to put up a thread with some more details & some pics, both on the vacuum setup and how you made the boxes.
I had thought about using a fridge vacuum pump for a vacuum chuck on the lathe, but seeing as you are using the old fire extinguisher as a "receiver", sort of the opposite of an air compressor by the sounds, I'm assuming the pump is capable of pulling a fair vacuum but is fairly slow?
Cheers................Sean
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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9th November 2007, 01:15 AM #22New Member
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- Aug 2007
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- UK
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A glue in the UK is called "Plastick" and is a mixture of solvents the most useful being tetrahydrofuran. Tetrahydrofuran is used with others for swimming pool pipe welding.
PETG is a tough plastic, not as tough as polycarbonate, but miles better than acrylic.
Be careful when moulding plastics, it is VERY difficult to keep the toughness properties, and if it's a serious guard you're making, you might need it. Heat treatment to anneal it is difficult, and time consuming. Cut sheet and cold bends are the way to go if possible.
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