Thread: Spokeshaves

chisels, whittling knives, planes, now spokeshaves - you've been a busy lad Andy.

Andy, another great example of your skills and creativity. You can plainly see the progression from your first go to your second.

Bear with me, Clint and I will soon release the business plan for your new business " Traditional Woodworking Pty Ltd" CEO and Founder - Sir Andrew MacSporran, Laird of Carbala.

Seriously, depending on the time to manufacture, you could make a nice little part time earner with your tools.

Would it take the fun away tho?

Don't you have a bed at your place Andy?

Originally Posted by Andy Mac

Hello,
Here are a couple of spokeshaves I made, inspired by a website called Teachshave. These are my first attempts, using spotted gum as a body, which I've been advised isn't really suitable, as it isn't stable. I stained the timber black....just liked it that way!
Cheers,

Fabulous tool.Im with you all the way with the recyling.Personaly I have a lot of
recyclible metal and wood as well to use in future projects.You have a great webpage as well.Did you get funding for the webpage design?You may be interested in the forge mail list -http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
and the artmetal - http://www.artmetal.com/mailman/listinfo/sandbox
you may be already familiar with these lists ,but if not- enjoy!
Regards

Originally Posted by Andy Mac

with 1/4" unf high tensile bolts tapped in and welded shut. These bolts are 90degrees to the blade and allow depth adjustment using housed nuts (under that aluminium top plate). The nuts are handmade, filed to shape.
The spokeshaves are trimmed with brass, aluminium and cow bone on the ends. The bigger of the two has a curved sole for concave work, the other is flat and works a treat.
The shaping of the bodies was a lot of fun, and I got into adding a bit more flair with the second one.
Cheers,

Just a couple of questions Andy Is there anything betwen the body and the blade(spring)so the blade does not retract?I will make the nuts out of a circular
peace ,perhaps 10-15 mm diameter and file some (small file 2-3mm dia.)half circle indentations around the perimeter.Seen this somewhere.How are the brass and cowhorn atached?Nice touch by the way

Hi Forge,
Thanks for the link, I'll register and have a better look soon. Regards that website (which drastically needs an update) I applied through the local council for an RADF grant, which is funded by Arts Qld. I got enough from that to fund the design of the website and 50 CDRoms (pretty much the same content) to use as promo and for applications...exhibitions, commissions etc. If anyone out there lives in regional Qld, you're eligible for RADF $$, so go for it!!
About the adjusting nuts, which are flat discs of mild steel, tapped & drilled, then notches filed in the rim at regular spacings, there is no spring loading. They sit snugly between the top plate and the body, with fibre washers/shims either side to take out backlash. I'm not an overly accurate worker, more of a bodger really , and there is uneven backlash on the threads. This causes the blade to rack occasionally, binding the bolts in their holes...much to- and fro-ing to get the blade to move easily over any distance. But then again, I never need to adjust it that much, so its only an issue when removing the blade for a sharpen.
Sorry if I've raved a bit...

Cheers,

Originally Posted by knucklehead

Don't you have a bed at your place Andy?

I was going to say the same. Good stuff.

Nice one Andy. I havent been down to this forum for a while and am surprised to see all your work. Well done - love them all.

Can you tell us how the brass and cow bone are attached.

Arron

Brilliant Andy!

Just love shop made tools, especially when made so well. Not quite so sure about the "cow bone" though

Cheers!

typo

Originally Posted by Clinton1

typo

Wot??

just checking if you were checking. :confused:

Checking absolutely, in fact Tartaning!