Thread: A question

I don't make bandsawn boxes (lack of time, not interest. ) but I've encountered similar situations with other projects.

Gluing to a finished surface is destined for failure, not a good idea, so I finish the pieces separately then loosely place them in position, which I mark with bits of tape, sharpened chalk (sounds silly, dunnit?) or even bits of blu-tac. Whatever will do the job and be easily removable before I actually apply glue.

Having marked the position, I remove the piece and sand the finish off the mating areas with a Dremel - or very carefully by hand - so the glue will have fresh wood to adhere to.

Occasionally, I'll also carefully drill the back of the handle or whatever to take a dowel and use a dowel centre point to xfer the measurement to the other surface, so I know where to drill that. When doing this, I heartily recommend using soft clean rags as padding to prevent marring the finish with clamps!

G'day Barrie,
I was going to answer this, but you've just had the definitive answer.

Yeah Skew!!

How about a recess instead of handles

Hi Barrie,

Always put mine on after sanding and before any finishing.

But would be interested vif anyone else has any ideas.......

Barrie,

what Skew said - attach a handle after the oiling and fine finishing by using a dowel.

If you've got the time, finish the oiling and finishing, then put the work aside for some weeks, that allows the finish to dry, harden and become bonded to the timber. Then attach the handle.

I'm a great fan of Loktite 401 - a super glue, not that I attach handles very often, when I do I use the Loktite and find it works OK with Loktite, but I can't guarantee the results.

I will watch this thread to learn of the alternatives,

Thanks for the replies, all useful stuff. I guess I was hoping someone had discovered the "magic pill" that would make things easy!

I have tried most of the tips at one time or another. Thanks especially Skew for the detail; I've used the scrape back method but not a full dowel. Instead I gently tap a couple of small brads in the back of the pull and snip them back to 1-2 mm then press them in position to mark the place for the 'scrape back'. I leave them in when finally gluing, but I'll try a small dowel next time. (I also use the cut off brads whenever gluing two surfaces that might slip when clamped).

Havent tried Loktite, Tony, I'll give it a try also. I find tung oil needs a few weeks to cure properly and harden also.

Thanks also PTC although I havent had any trouble gluing recesses into drawers yet (I keep a box of assorted sizes handy!).

If anyone does find the "magic pill" please let us know.

I've had a couple of operations on my eyes so havent been making many boxes last few months, but hopefully I will get some new glasses in February and be able to return to the bench with a reduced risk of lopping off my fingers and hands. Plenty of boxes on the drawing board, lots of wood, just need some good eyes.

Thanks again folks.

Regards,

Barrie

A "magic pill?"

Oh... you mean a nail-gun?

"magic pill?" whatabout a GM wood, grow your own?

Not a good idea

Gaffa tape

Pardon my ignorance guys, but what's a bandawn box? A box built on a bandsaw?

Eldanos hi,

Yes a bandsawn box is as the name implies, a box made from a block of wood using the bandsaw.

Here are a number of threads of this forum which discuss the making of such a box ~ http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...archid=3801503

If you image Google "bandsawn boxes" you'll find a lot more.

Hi All
Have you tried applying a piece of adhesive tape to the area were the draw pull fits, needs to be a good quality tape that sticks like mud to a blanket. Remove the tape when the finish has been applied and glue the pull on.
Don Mc.

i have used painters tape before and that worked fine. Just cut the tape slightly smaller than the area to be glued, place it in position and apply the finish. when dry, remove the tape and glue away.