Thread: Beginner's question, white wood in intarsia

Hi again Libi

I have been using a nunber of patterns over and over and I always get a kick out of a finished job. No two are ever the same as a result of different wood. I am colour blind and as a result I don't put a lot of importance on colour just as long as I can get a good contrast. and the grain must run the right way.

I do agree that matching, sorting and colecting timber gives a lot of pleasure.

To answer your questions. It all depends on the job as to what I use for a backing board. Some jobs just need a backing to support the job so I use anything such as 3ml MDF or ply. Other jobs need the backing to be part of the job then I become more selective and use something that blends in. I usually use timber that is about 10 ml thick but I don't place a lot of importance on all timber being the same thickness. Lets face it intarsia is a rustic type of art and as a result it will take many variations.

When glueing up I join the pices together at the side using a flat booard for support. When the glue has set I then attach the baking board and I use little pieces to support any joins not covered by the backing.

To get a 3d efect I do use thicker or thiner wood. I have just finished a goanna and that needed the legs to stand out. The main body was 10 ml and one hind leg was 20ml.
I do sand the thikness to blend into the general layout of the job. The end of the tail needed to be thiner so I tapered it with the sander.

Talking about sanding I know that you can buy blow up type sanding drums costing an
arm and a leg but I use flap sanders in and old drill. I have set the drill into a stand and just work the piece onto the sander. I have also made up a hand sander by using narrow sanding belts on a bow type arangment that I cut out of a piece of waste pine. I use the unsupported part to sand the roll over edges. Works well

I stumbled on a method of cutting out that works well. I photo copy the plan then cut it up using a very sharp hobby knife. I then stick the plan pieces onto my pieces of wood (masking tape first then glue onto the masking tape. All stuff from $2 shops)( by using the masking tape the pattern will peal of very easly. I don't like spray glue. It just doesn't seem to work) by doing that I then saw the piece right on the edge of the paper. what happens there is that the saw cut is in the exact place and the fit becomes very close.

If you would like photoes just let me know and we can exchange email address so I can use somthing that I understand.

I hope you can understand what I am saying here. If not just let me know and I will try again.

Good luck

Red Gum

Hi Redgum
I've been up to my eyeballs in reading about a new camera, so I haven't been on the forum for a couple of days. I've made my decision, have bought the package, and am back in the land of the living again!!!


I've sent you a PM.

Cheers
LiliB