Thread: Adding knurl to steel

http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Pro...stockCode=L079

When you use this tool you need to make sure that once you start knurling you stay in contact with the metal until you reckon you are completely done. If you disengage to check things out then you don't always re-engage in the same spot and you'll just mash the old knurl. So, if you want to check out how the knurl is going, leave the tool on the metal and stop the lathe.

To knurl a wider area you can move the tool along the steel with the fine feed, provided you stay in contact with the metal it will maintain registration OK. I move it up and back the full distance I want the knurl and then apply a bit more cross feed pressure and repeat until I'm done.

Depending on what sort of steel you have you might have to apply quite a lot of cross feed pressure to get a decent effect but that is OK - that is how they work.

Cheers

Bob,
If you use a scissor or clamp style knurling tool (see photo) the load on the cross slide and headstock bearings is reduced.

Originally Posted by rodm

Bob,
If you use a scissor or clamp style knurling tool (see photo) the load on the cross slide and headstock bearings is reduced.

Good point. Also if you are knurling even moderately thin rod it makes sense to use the tail stock to support the work and reduce rod bending

Originally Posted by ElDubya

Hi all,

If I had a length of steel roundbar,how would I go about adding a knurl to the ends of it?

Is there a tool that you can buy to do this that doesn't cost an arm and a leg?

• Hold it between centers ensuring it is firm and won't slip in the chuck jaws and firmly supported at the t /stock center end.
  
• Take a skim cut if possible to start with a good surface ,if you do not have a good surface already.
  
• Use the slowest speed onyour lathe.
  
• Ensure that the teeth of the knurl are clear of any build up of any material before knurling.This will wreck your knurled appearance.
  
• Make sure the knurl is operating at center height.
• Wind in the cross slide and engage the surface firmly.You generally get the one opportunity.Watch for the depth of pattern you are satisfied with, then DO NOT TOUCH IT
• Use auto travel if your lathe is equipped with it,or otherwise move it with a consistent and smooth motion.

That help ?
Grahame

Of course, if you don't have a lathe, you can get a hand knurling tool - I bought a Knurlmaster last year. It works quite well enough for me.

Originally Posted by jmk89

Of course, if you don't have a lathe, you can get a hand knurling tool - I bought a Knurlmaster last year. It works quite well enough for me.

Looks impressive although a tad dear. Does it work on steel as well as brass etc?

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Andy Mac

Looks impressive although a tad dear. Does it work on steel as well as brass etc?

Cheers,

I agree that it is a tad dear. I have knurled brass and mild steel with it. Some day I may try it on silver steel.

It is very convenient to be able just to hold the piece in the vice and spin the tool around it to get a knurled finish.

Originally Posted by jmk89

I agree that it is a tad dear. I have knurled brass and mild steel with it. Some day I may try it on silver steel.

It is very convenient to be able just to hold the piece in the vice and spin the tool around it to get a knurled finish.

Looks similar to something I saw many years ago where someone had adapted a pipe cutter to take standard knurling rollers.

Thanks for all your replies. I think I will have to start looking for one.

Cheers everyone