Thanks: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 30 of 49
Thread: Air Compressor Problem
-
29th August 2013, 06:50 PM #16
My water trap has a valve that releases when the pressure gets down low. Just enough to blow out the water. Could put one of these on the tank as well. My 45kg tank is outside with the compressor just inside the wall. I will eventually move it outside as well. More quieter.
I don't use the compressor switch because it keeps turning itself back on . Caused some confusion at first. I was positive I turned that off before I came inside! Well obviously you didn't did you. I had to . I eventually caught it out .
Dean
-
29th August 2013 06:50 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
1st September 2013, 01:57 PM #17New Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
- Location
- MY
- Posts
- 2
I wouldn't worry about the rust too much, that's quite normal.
If you worry about your tools, why not install a simple compressed air filter? Get a big enough one, or you will create a huge pressure drop over the filter when you use a lot of air!
-
1st September 2013, 08:22 PM #18
Thanks. My compressor is still sitting just inside the shed door at the moment. I will put it back when I have sufficient need of it. It does not have a real home any more. After positioning my mill the space next to it where the compressor normally sits has been designated a tooling cupboard loaction. As I haven't made the cupboard yet the compressor just gets poked in there for now. I have an old horne sewing centre that SWMBO has given me. She also gave me a set of plastic drawers about 65mm deep which will fit in the sewing centre leg room space. I will cut it to just fit these and will have the original wooden drawers as well. It is ply so should be long lasting. Lots of drawers. Will need to build enclosure outside for the compressor tho.
I have to make up a steel pipe drying system like nearnexus (Rob) posted his video on. I don't think I need to go to the extent of refrigerated moisture removal. I have some 100mm SHS. 2.5m of that standing up would extract moisture and provide extra storage. Air in 100mm or so from the bottom, out the top, then air hose down to water trap and regulator at an accessible height. I am just thinking of what I have on hand that would do the job.
Dean
-
1st September 2013, 09:04 PM #19Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2011
- Location
- South Australia
- Posts
- 58
After seeing nearnexus (Rob) video on the pipe set up I want to do something similar. Is galvanised pipe OK to use, or is there another alternative that others have considered? Copper? Stainless? etc....
-
1st September 2013, 09:44 PM #20SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2012
- Location
- SA
- Posts
- 1,478
That's just one way of doing it.
There's quite a few and a look on YouTube shows them.
You can also use a condenser from a car air conditioning system (the thing in front of the radiator) in a similar way, with a drain off point and trap.
I just used some plain scrap galv water pipe and fittings I had laying about the place.
I got the original idea from Mick at Paramount Browns who just used one large diameter steel pipe.
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
-
2nd September 2013, 12:10 AM #21GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
- Location
- melbourne, laverton
- Posts
- 1,469
video
can someone please post a link to the video?
how about pvc for the air lines?
-
2nd September 2013, 07:34 AM #22Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 3,149
-
2nd September 2013, 09:32 AM #23SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2012
- Location
- SA
- Posts
- 1,478
The worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
-
2nd September 2013, 09:36 AM #24SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2012
- Location
- SA
- Posts
- 1,478
On this same issue, I once had the clear acetate bowl on a CIG regulator/drier let go big time on that compressor.
Went off like a grenade, and that particular model didn't have metal shroud around the bowl. Neither does the Schrader fitted ATM.
No harm done but gives you a bit of a fright.
Close examination showed it had stress fractures panning out from the hole for the drain point.
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
-
2nd September 2013, 11:51 AM #25
If you mean to use it for the vertical tubes as per Rob's idea, not only consider Michaels warning but also remember that the purpose of these tubes is to cool the air inside. This requires a material with a good Thermal Conductivity which realistically rules out anything but metal. Copper (385) would be the best commonly available metal followed by Aluminium (200ish). Gold is ok (314), Silver a bit better (427). Steel (Carbon) is actually low in comparison (36) and Stainless Steel even lower (16.3). If you want the best apparently Diamond is very good at 1000 or more. I have just pulled these figures from Wikipedia.
As a comparison Polyethylene has a value of 0.42.
Thinking outside the square! Large diameter steel pipe with a spiral of copper tubing inside which has water circulating thru it. I am going to have a wander around my junk storage piles and see what looks good and is not already allocated for another purpose.
Dean
-
2nd September 2013, 01:23 PM #26SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2012
- Location
- SA
- Posts
- 1,478
And then you have the home brew still feeding in from the other side.
I see where this is heading.
Sounds good though
The mass of the metal used is really the determining factor as I see it - steel pipe takes a hell of a lot of thermal energy before it heats up.
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
-
2nd September 2013, 02:01 PM #27
Hmm. Are you cooling the brew with the air or cooling the air with the brew? You would need two outlets. Just be careful you don't get them mixed up.
Re the mass of the metal. Mostly correct but remember that the thermal conductivity also determines the rate at which the steel absorbs heat. In practice it is unlikely to make too much difference in a home shop situation.
Dean
-
2nd September 2013, 03:05 PM #28Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2011
- Location
- South Australia
- Posts
- 58
I have some copper pipe. I was thinking of using this for the air compressor cooling pipe work.
Does anyone recommend the compression type fittings, or should I go for the soldered/brazing fittings? (or does it not matter? I can do both easily)
Just wanted to know of anyone else's experience. Anybody used either of these for their air compressor pipes?
I'm only mounting the pipes up against the shed wall. (not internally anywhere)
-
2nd September 2013, 05:42 PM #29GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
- Location
- melbourne, laverton
- Posts
- 1,469
-
2nd September 2013, 06:01 PM #30SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2012
- Location
- SA
- Posts
- 1,478
Similar Threads
-
GMC compressor
By mhewitt in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 3Last Post: 10th September 2012, 01:19 PM -
Router problem or operator problem ?
By Ozziespur in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 5Last Post: 15th August 2011, 03:23 PM -
Air compressor drive problem
By jardyDIY in forum GENERAL & SMALL MACHINERYReplies: 17Last Post: 15th August 2010, 07:32 PM -
Turn your $99 GMC compressor into a $1200 compressor for $85 aud
By honda900fz in forum GENERAL & SMALL MACHINERYReplies: 3Last Post: 7th October 2009, 08:29 PM