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  1. #1
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    Default Fab Shop Workhorse..........The Humble Grinder

    Gidday

    The Humble right angle grinder in 4 1/2 n 9 Inch forms are the work horses of most metal working shops particularly when it comes to Weld Grinding, blending and deburring...........

    OF all the tools in our shop I spend more time on griders than any other tool. In fact before I became a metal fabricator i was ignorant to how effective these precision grinding/cutting tools can be..............

    I want to invite all the metal fabricators out there too share a bit about there grinding exploits n any info U think might be worthy of handing on...........

    My Grinders of Choice are a Metabo 9 inch soft start (With quick change Locking Nut) N a VArilex 1600 VAriable speed RIght Angle Grinder Both German units that to date have served me well.

    American made Milwakee units are by far the most popular grinders in our shop.............Will be interesting to see how my German units hold up against em.

    The supplier I use is abrasives Australia that can be found here:

    http://www.specialabrasives.com/index.htm

    They have some awesome gear! I tend to use the plantex products to help cut down on glass fibre intake (Hate that stuff) N must admit I'm becoming a Flap Disc FAn ...................after discovering the joys of variable speed angle grinding

    Regards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

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  3. #2
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    Default Cut off Wheels

    Hey there

    Cutt off wheels should be quality ................. believe me u dont want a failure mid use. So is worthwhile leaning towards more well known respected brands.

    For trade use the new thinner style of wheels offer a few advantages. I use a 1mm wheel with my 4 1/2 inch grinder.The thinner wheels minimise the surface area contact between the material and the wheel due to the reduced surface width of the wheel.

    The reduced surface cutting area offers the following benefiits:
    1. Improves surface finish on the cut material
    2. Generates less heat
    3. REduces base material loss during the cutting operation
    4. Requires less force for cutting
    When working with stainless steel and other high nickel alloys cut off wheels that are sulfer and chloride free should be used to prevent contamination of the stock................In a nutshell ask for an abrasive that suits the material you are working on.

    For example different abrasives are used for Mild Steel, Stainless n Aluminium

    Always be in control of your grinder particularly when cutting n never try to use a cutting wheel as a grinder

    REgards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  4. #3
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    Default Flap disc or grinding wheel or both ?............Both :-)

    Gidday

    The jurys out on this one for me................I cant honestly say yet which I prefer they both have there place n I prefer different types of wheels for different jobs..........Im hoping a few of the more experienced can give counsel on this one.............

    However the recently introduced flap discs grind and finish in one step reducing both the time needed and expense of finishing a product.

    When using flap discs its really important to remember that a user can extend the working life of a flap disc by 50% by keeping the angle grinders rpm between 5000 & 8000............

    REgards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  5. #4
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    Default Check the type of abrasive your using............

    Generally theres around three types of abrasive coating to look out for when using flap disks..........

    The type of coated abrasive you use could impact on your results depending on the job at hand and what type of material your attempting to grind

    Types of coated abrasive for flap disks are as follows:

    Good: Aluminium oxide is suitable to most general purpose applications. It is specified for use on wood and most metals.

    Better:Zirconia alumina grains are sharp and durable providing speedy stock removal and improved service life. Zirconia Alumina based disks are used to best affect in course grits on heavy duty metalworking stock removal applications.........Usually lasts twice as long as aluminium oxide

    Best: Ceramic grain abrasives are available in a variety of grits as special products for aggressive and cool grinding. They ensure faster grinding with the addition of offering better surface quality and excellent stock removal rates.

    Their cool working properties ensure longer service life & minimise surface discoloration of the workpiece.

    Ceramic based abrasives excell for grinding high alloyed steels, titanium, nickel alloys and all extreamly hard materials. Ceramics will usually last 50% longer than zirconia alumina abrasives

    So there you have it a nice little basic guide to help you choose the right flap disk for the job.......................

    Theres a great little primer on abrasive types from the Australian Industrial Abrasives webpage here:

    http://www.australianabrasives.com/belts.htm


    Regards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  6. #5
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    Default Some Suppliers

    Gidday

    Heres a List of my Fav suppliers in regards to Grinding gear to date:

    Abrasives Australia
    http://www.specialabrasives.com/index.htm

    Australian Idustrial Abrasives
    http://www.australianabrasives.com/flexiblegrinding.htm

    Abrasive Products
    http://www.abrasiveproducts.com.au/index.html

    Hermes Abrasives
    http://www.hermes.com.au/

    Saint Cobain Abrasives Australia
    http://www.saint-gobain.com.au/

    REgards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  7. #6
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    Default

    I find my 5" variable speed Bosch suits my needs. I am a auto body fabricator. I use the fast speeds for grinding and cutting, and the slower speeds using the old fashioned flap discs for weld blending.

    I also have a 4" Makita for tight spots. Smaller and much less power, so not as dangerous, and useable with one hand operation when safe to do so.

    As for abrasives, it depends what I am building. Regular automotive sheetmetal panels, polished aluminium panels, stainless steel covers, copper radiator housings etc. To do things right I have ended up with no less than 30 different sizes, grits and base material built sanding products to suit my grinders.

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NewLou View Post
    Gidday

    The Humble right angle grinder in 4 1/2 n 9 Inch forms are the work horses of most metal working shops particularly when it comes to Weld Grinding,
    Which of course you wont have to do once you get good at it..

  9. #8
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    Default Grinders

    Brickie,
    I agree!
    Lou knows my attitude to weld grinding.I am quite sure he meant to say weld preparation grinding.

    For those individuals still learning the craft, I do urge you to learn the cause of welding defects and how they are avoided. It's all out there on the net if you choose to look.


    Sadly, many less well skilled welding operators display their lack of basic welding ability by taking the grinder to almost every bit of weld they lay.

    Defect removal is not nearly as effective as defect avoidance.

    It costs :

    • A time loss
    • Consumable waste
    • Energy (as in electric power) loss.


    When I taught certification welding welding, I saw those who barely need the grinder had little trouble in achieving a pass where as those that used the grinder as a crutch to attempt the test, fail time and again.

    Grahame

  10. #9
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    Default

    Its been a while, but when I was welding the weld looked soooo nice, with stick I used to get the slag pealing off in one long line all by itself..

  11. #10
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by peter_sm View Post
    I find my 5" variable speed Bosch suits my needs.
    The good thing with the 5" grinders is that they have the same size bore as the 9" grinder, so when the 9" wheel has worn down it can be used in the 5"..

    If I was to have the opportunity to buy a new smaller grinder I would buy the 5" one..

  12. #11
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    Default A great job of increasing our knowledge base

    Thanks Lou,
    You have done an excellent job in adding to the groups knowledge of abrasives.

    When teaching the senior cherubs I am on their backs about the hazards of angle grinders.
    Ignorance and laziness are terrible companions to work with if you are a senior engineering student with a poor safety attitude.
    Some don't care about how they get the job done and that includes use of the angle grinder.
    I often need to stop the classes and point out hazards

    like this:
    1. No handle on the grinder-one handed grinding
    2. Guard removed to get better job access
    3. Input cable cut to core wire by grinder wheel - no control-see No 1
    4. The wrong type backing plate fitted to the grinder-dished and flat types.
    5. The wrong diameter wheel (ie 115mm fitted to a grinder say 100mm ) -extreme vibration.
    6. Cracked or damaged wheels left on a grinder


    and thats just the angle grinders

    Of course none of us would ever do that.

    Grahame

  13. #12
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Brickie View Post
    The good thing with the 5" grinders is that they have the same size bore as the 9" grinder, so when the 9" wheel has worn down it can be used in the 5"..

    If I was to have the opportunity to buy a new smaller grinder I would buy the 5" one..
    If you do this, check that the rpm rating of the 9" wheel is suitable for the 5" rating as well. The 5" rpm is a lot higher then the 9" so check first or you might have an exploding disc due to the extra speed.

    I have both these sizes and will not use the 9" on my 5" as I have seen them explode and have also been hit by bits as well. The person responsible for this got his behind severely kicked by a few of us that were in the firing line.
    Cheers

    DJ


    ADMIN

  14. #13
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NewLou View Post
    ..................American made Milwakee units are by far the most popular grinders in our shop.............Will be interesting to see how my German units hold up against em........................
    Lou,
    just wondering if the Milwaukee grinders are in fact US made now. They were bought out (AFAIK) by Atlas Copco (Swedish multi national) who also bought out AEG (German). They sell some seemingly similar tools with the different branding on it. Might be interesting to check the stickers on them to see of they say "made in USA" or just "Milwaukee, USA"

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  15. #14
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    Default

    Intersting DJ, I worked in a factory for some years welding and they only used the 5" and 9" grinders, I never once saw the wheels disintegrate, and that was over a 7 year period.

    Mind you, that was when all the wheels were made here in Oz..

    Moral of the story, dont buy the cheap Chinese crap.

  16. #15
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    Default

    That's all good Brickie, but as I said, check the speed rating. The guy from my story use a lower speed rated one and that's why it exploded.
    Cheers

    DJ


    ADMIN

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